razor blade to trim tip?

[pip9ball]

Yes My bad, bevel would be a better description. Utility blades have that bevel on both sides unlike a chisal, so yes that's why you have to lay the edge flat and not the blade It'self.

Tommy, your right on, I am cutting from the front side, and I do this on a daily basis, so I guess I kind of forget how much all that practice is worth in feel.
They most certainly will dig in on You in a heartbeat, so there is a fine line. You can ruin a tip easily, so for the first timers practicing might be better on cheaper tips at first, and like You mentioned just practicing holding that bevel flat, and moving it straight on a table or something might be a good idea before trying It. I do tend to angle the back of the handle toward the tail stock some also, possible that may help give more control I'm not sure, but It's what I'm most comfortable with. I also set My post/steady up where It's most comfortable, so as to give me the most control possible.
You are correct, for me It's all about feel like many other things. It sure saves Me alot of time and hassle on some house cues that are near impossible to get centered. I have got to the point where I can even do them with some runnout, but that's even trickier because the blade will try to bounce around if you don't have a really good feel, and try to force things too much. I would'nt recomend It though because It just increases the danger, and chances of the blade digging in.

One other thing that may have been mentioned already, but you only get a few uses out of a blade, and It' a good thing to keep a fresh one in there as much as possible. Hopefully between all of us some of this info will help those trying to learn, and keep them safe . Greg C

Greg,

Thanks for all the tips! I tried again last night while trying to hold the bevel flat and it seemed to help a little. The blade started to cut near the ferrule, however about 1/3 from the end of the ferrule to the tip, it started to burnish again. My lathe is running clockwise so I am coming in from the back of the tip. Im not resting the blade on any type of rest, instead Im using the ferrule as a guide (is this a bad idea?). Perhaps later tonight I will post some pictures of my setup and the angle of approach Im using.

Thanks again,

Phillip

 

[Cue Crazy]

Greg,

Thanks for all the tips! I tried again last night while trying to hold the bevel flat and it seemed to help a little. The blade started to cut near the ferrule, however about 1/3 from the end of the ferrule to the tip, it started to burnish again. My lathe is running clockwise so I am coming in from the back of the tip. Im not resting the blade on any type of rest, instead Im using the ferrule as a guide (is this a bad idea?). Perhaps later tonight I will post some pictures of my setup and the angle of approach Im using.

Thanks again,

Phillip

Yeah, they will try to wander in and out on you, that's kind of part of the trick to it, is controlling that. I use a hightower lathe for the tips, so I basically do the same thing He does in his video, and use the tool post for a steady, I do believe that helps the control issue quite a bit. Depending on how Your setup, You might could rig something else to do the same thing. Free hand is tuff. I still use the ferrule as a guide, using the toolpost as a steady just gives Me more control over the knife is all.

Greg C

 

[billiardbum]

Might be a stupid question, but why not use your cutter on the toolpost to trim the edges of the tip? Just a thought, but I have been doing that for 10 years, and I actually taper my tip slightly to allow for mushrooming. Am I missing something with the razorblade? Just curious, I do see guys doing this, but I always wonder why?

 

[Sheldon]

Might be a stupid question, but why not use your cutter on the toolpost to trim the edges of the tip? Just a thought, but I have been doing that for 10 years, and I actually taper my tip slightly to allow for mushrooming. Am I missing something with the razorblade? Just curious, I do see guys doing this, but I always wonder why?

It's a lot faster and easier, and less likely to damage a ferrule.
A razor blade is sharper and cuts the tip a lot cleaner, and will be less likely to delam an expensive layered tip.
Razor blades are cheap and disposable, no sharpening.

 

[Cue Crazy]

Might be a stupid question, but why not use your cutter on the toolpost to trim the edges of the tip? Just a thought, but I have been doing that for 10 years, and I actually taper my tip slightly to allow for mushrooming. Am I missing something with the razorblade? Just curious, I do see guys doing this, but I always wonder why?

What Sheldon said pretty much is the same for Me. It cuts cleaner for Me, and less stress on the tip when trimming It. When I use My tool in post I'm always afraid of cutting away from the headstock, and only like to cut toward It, so It compresses rather than uncompressing or causing delamination. With the blades I have never had those issues. I have enough control over the blade now days that I can taper the same way You mentioned, for the same reason, but I usually only do that on a tip I did not press before hand. For Me It's also less risk of damaging the ferrule. It's just personal preference I suppose, and definatly is'nt the only way to do it, but It is easier & quicker for me also. I use to do them the same way as You though, and nothing wrong with It if It works for You.

Greg

 

[JoeyInCali]

Try using the toolbit on Elk Master and Blue Diamond.
Those two cutaway like butter Sheldon's Razor Blade way.
I did 16 house cues in a jiffy.

 

[Sheldon]

I've mentioned it before, but will do so again for the benefit of those just learning... put your cupped center against the tip with some pressure on it while you trim. This will keep you from possibly pulling a very soft tip out of shape. I rest the heel of my left hand on the lathe carriage, and the heel of my right on the tailstock while holding the blade with both hands. You get a ton of control that way. The angle of the blade in relation to the ferrule will determine how deep or shallow it's going to bite in. I usually start pretty flat near the end of the ferrule, then raise it up a little once it starts cutting.