I just glued up my forearm to the handle. My forearm is close to finish size and my handle is still oversized. Now, I need to drill a new center hole on the handle (tip end) but here's my dilemma - the headstock on my hightower lathe has a 0.002 runout. If I chuck up the forearm there with a 0.002 runut, how much runout will it have at 17 inches from the headstock? How do I make sure that the new center hole I drill on the tip of my handle is true and accurate? How do you guys do it? This is a big problem for me especially when I have a cue with points in the foream.. if I get the centers off, then my points become uneven.
re-center hole after connecting forearm/handle
- Thread starter hardknox222
- Start date
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Thank you Sheldon and thank you Mr. Wadsworth. I would have called you but I got the PM from Mr. Murrell to call him before I saw your post. I did not want you to think that I snubbed your offer, sir. 
Anyway, I'd like to thank Mr. Kenneth Murrell for all the advice. Lots of good people here on AZ.
Anyway, I'd like to thank Mr. Kenneth Murrell for all the advice. Lots of good people here on AZ.
I know a couple others here (more capable than I) seemed to answer your question.
But I think it need be said that using points as a visual guide of your centers being off should not end there. Building a cue w/ or without points, if your centers are off (in this case meaning you have substantial wobble at the A-Joint of the cue,) you can have several problems internally- especially if you are using a pin there- meaning a thinner wall on one side, and a thicker wall on the other. Your cue could warp, or even bust out of the side if the wall is too thin.
But I think it need be said that using points as a visual guide of your centers being off should not end there. Building a cue w/ or without points, if your centers are off (in this case meaning you have substantial wobble at the A-Joint of the cue,) you can have several problems internally- especially if you are using a pin there- meaning a thinner wall on one side, and a thicker wall on the other. Your cue could warp, or even bust out of the side if the wall is too thin.
hardknox222 said:
I agree and Mr. Murrell did explain this to me also. We talked for almost an hour and there was a lot of small details that Kenny mentioned and I am just starting to digest now the more I think about it. Like Mr. Wadsworth said, there is too much information to post and I do not want to post it here because I am not sure I have understood all that was said to me 100% at this time and I certainly do not want to give out wrong information because my brain did not fully comprehend what was being said. Too much information for a newbie like me to digest but I am very grateful. I'm sure some of the stuff that Kenny mentioned will make more sense as soon as I apply it on the lathe myself.
If you are interested in what I have learned, please call Mr. Murrell or Mr. Wadsworth. I am sure they will be more than willing to help you as they did me.
Too much information for a newbie like me to digest but I am very grateful. I'm sure some of the stuff that Kenny mentioned will make more sense as soon as I apply it on the lathe myself.If you are interested in what I have learned, please call Mr. Murrell or Mr. Wadsworth. I am sure they will be more than willing to help you as they did me.
Sheldon said:
I tried doing this yesterday but I cannot get that dial to 0 runout. Everytime I adjust the center on the tailstock, I get runout on another side... it's frustrating! Is there a good technique to make this easier?
New center
You mentioned that you are using a Hightower lathe and the handle is oversize. As long as the handle is tapered, you have no problem. Simply chuck up the joint end and use the steady rest to center the butt end. Drill your new center using the tailstock. If your steady rest is on center, and your tailstock is on center, your should be fine.
You mentioned that you are using a Hightower lathe and the handle is oversize. As long as the handle is tapered, you have no problem. Simply chuck up the joint end and use the steady rest to center the butt end. Drill your new center using the tailstock. If your steady rest is on center, and your tailstock is on center, your should be fine.
There are several ways to skin a cat...hardknox222 said:
With that said you can try this: (assuming your A-Joint connection has been machined properly, everything mechanically is on center, your points are even on your forearm, and your butt-end center is small :wink: )
UNPLUG YOUR LATHE:
1) Put your cue between centers.
2) Put an indicator on the top side of your forearm as close as possible to the handle and rotate the cue by hand checking for the "high" spot in your run-out. You can use a pencil in your tool post as well to mark this spot.
3) With the high spot rotated to the ceiling, grab a hold of your cue to keep it from spinning, tap lightly downward on the butt-end right over your center. You are elongating your center hole at this point.
4) Grab a hold of your chuck NOT THE CUE ITSELF and rotate the cue checking for run-out. Keep tapping the high spot of the cue downward until you see the run out decrease (.005 movement here is suitable for a lot of people)
5) Once you get it to where you are ok with the run-out, cut a straight tenon on the butt (1-2) inches is enough right over your center hole. You may need your left-handed tool to do this. Make sure you are removing material all the way around. I will shade this area with a pencil- if there are pencil marks left- need to shave a hair more. What this does is re-centers the elongated center hole to the tenon.
6) Take the cue out, turn it around and chuck up on that tenon (assuming you have the large bore head stock?- if so, both chucks on that head should be grabbing your handle and you should be using the steady rest out the back to stabilize the forearm) and cut a new, slightly larger center hole in the butt-end. This is why some use just the points of their centers,- I use as small a center hole to begin with, then I would step to the next, and so forth.
7) Re-center your lathe driver making sure it is concentric- Put the cue back between centers, indicate in the same spot as before, and if you are still happy, take slight cuts down the length of your handle only- never touching your forearm, the center in your forearm, our your perfectly aligned points- now you see why it is good to have several machines set up in advance- but this is good practice
.Let the cue set a while, repeat as often as necessary. If the cue continues to move, then you are in for a problem.
I learned early on as to why some leave their handle straight, and oversized. The A-Joint can cause a lot of movement. Plus, your holes are slightly bigger than your tennon to allow for glue and such.
With proper set up, and proper construction, you shouldn't have to do this often. But ALWAYS check this joint BEFORE turning your od- EVERYTIME!!
Much easier and quicker doing than reading.
Hope this helps, PM me if necessary.
Good luck my friend...
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Great tip from everyone.
Now, when you get to the point and have turned the entire length of the cue and your points fall off... well, hehe...that is another cup of coffee (or Rootbeer!)JoeyInCali said:
4-jaw chuckPoulos Cues said:
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Rootbeer..........definitely rootbeer time............
I heard you can recenter cues with points with TWO centers off, in just a few seconds with duct tape and playing cards.BarenbruggeCues said:
If I am understanding this correctly you want a new center in the bumper end of the handle, but you want to keep the forearm spinning true so as not to mis-align the points later. You said bumping it on the center has proven too frustrating, so here is what I have done in the past. Put your steady rest on the bed to the right of the headstock chuck. Slide the forearm through the steady rest from the right side and chuck up on the small end of the forearm, with steady rest grabbing it at the big end of the forearm. Now take your pointed live cented in the tailstock and bump it against the handle to create a small indention. Now turn the lathe on slow speed and center drill it.hardknox222 said:
Always taper your handle down far enough to be able to run it through the headstock before joining it to the forearm and it will avoid these problems.
To address your question about how much run out .002" will give out 17 inches that depends on how you are holding the cue. If holding a straight dowel on one end with the rest sticking out, it could be .002" or .034" depending if the run out is angled or just off on one side. But if you had the forearm in a collet to the left of the headstock and it was turning dead true on the left end and you were chucked up on the end of the butt with .002" run out then you would only have roughly .001" run out in the middle of the cue. The same would hold true if you chucked up on the forearm with the handle through the steady rest on the right hand end.
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JoeyInCali said:
When your points run both directions you have to improvise.............
Thank you Poulos Cues and Chris for the advice. 