rebuild your router

I was a technician, then taught others for years. But whenever I take anything apart for the first time I keep my digital camera handy, and take pics of every key step, wiring color and hookup, gear positions, etc. The router is simple, but when I took each of my large metal lathes apart, that camera was my best friend. Especially when I had to wait months for a part, i would have never remembered every little detail. A long cry from the days when I could throw an entire engine or tranny in a box then reassemble it from memory. To think these are the golden years!





Yeah my memory is not what It once was either, I doubt I could not even memorize a carb that I'm not familiar with now days, although some I may remember by heart, but even the first one I ever rebuilt as a kid I was able to do on memory. Now I either take pictures of what I'm working on, use schematics or both. I've rebuilt engines and trannys, but when I was younger, My father also owned a parts yard as part of his business, so even on My own cars if the tranny went out, I could go out and pull one out of another car that was still good, maybe put a stall, and shift kit in It and be good to go, until I needed another one. We did more swaps then rebuilds, although occasionally we did, I did, or I helped someone that I know do one. At that age a lot of My buddies were into cars, so we ordered parts from places like summit, and built stuff at home for fun too. My dad ran on local and regional strips occasionally in his hay day, and there were some stock car racers in the family, he did a little himself, and even race bikes at one time, so I grew up hearing about some stuff, as well as being there for some of It, and so naturally that sort of thing kept my interest at a young age. now days I get cramped & claustrophobic crawling under cars, so I only do It when I have to. I've maybe done or took part in 5 to 10 trans tops, but mostly did swaps on those. Amoco use to buy the old ones from us for cores. I remember having to deliver truck beds of them, and putting them in a little shed behind the place by myself, and having to walk on and carry them over other transmissions to stack them in the back. I'm sure all the stuff that I did like that over the years contributed to My hips and spine now flaring up at times.

I'm the same way I have forgot stuff while waiting on parts to arrive. I usually figure It out, but It can sometimes turn into a huge waste of time, without pictures or a schematic to go on. I try to make sure to remember to snap pics, before getting into to deep with anything, and in some cases labeling things along the way or separating parts into mini assemblies also helps. The pictures also make It nice when researching something online for a side by side comparison, or just to get the info off of a tag without having to write everything down.
 
I decided I needed to replace the bearings in my PC7310 router and remebered this thread, so searched and found it. Thanks to Kim for identifying the bearing sizes.

I went to VXB.com and searched - they have these two bearings in a multitude of materials and prices - from $0.77 to $129.95.

I sent an email to VXB asking which they would recommend for this application. In the meantime, I came up with these candidates:

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit7208

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit7808

http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/Kit8346

I picked these on median price and the fact that they are hybrids - ceramic balls inside stainless steel races, but all double sealed. There's a lot of knowledge amongst you about a lot of topics, is there any reason not to go this route?

Thanks for any feedback!

Gary
 
Well, I guess I was on the right track.

Here's the reply I got from VXB:

Hello Gary,

Thank you for your email. We definitely have a lot of options. The best option we offer would be a hybrid bearing. This bearing have ceramic ball bearings for less friction. For the 608 bearings you can check out kit7809 and for 6002RS you can check out kit7655
S6002-2RS Ceramic Bearing Si3N4 Stainless Steel Sealed Premium ABEC-5 15x32x9 Ball Bearings
Code: Kit7655
Price: $36.00
8 Skateboard Stainless Steel Ceramic Bearing Si3N4 Sealed ABEC-5 Ball Bearings
Code: Kit7809
Price: $49.95

FYI

Gary
 
Well, I guess I was on the right track.

Here's the reply I got from VXB:

Hello Gary,

Thank you for your email. We definitely have a lot of options. The best option we offer would be a hybrid bearing. This bearing have ceramic ball bearings for less friction. For the 608 bearings you can check out kit7809 and for 6002RS you can check out kit7655
S6002-2RS Ceramic Bearing Si3N4 Stainless Steel Sealed Premium ABEC-5 15x32x9 Ball Bearings
Code: Kit7655
Price: $36.00
8 Skateboard Stainless Steel Ceramic Bearing Si3N4 Sealed ABEC-5 Ball Bearings
Code: Kit7809
Price: $49.95

FYI

Gary

Those prices are for a lot of 10 bearings I hope.

There is no need for ceramic bearings. I would like to try a set of them to see how long they last. I rebuild my routers about every two to 3 months. I can hear the speed varying or they just stop and the bearings set up. I have never changed the brushes in 2 years. They are getting shorter but the armature does not show any wear.

Kim
 
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Mike,

Not sure to whom you were speaking/typing, but I went ahead and chose the more expensive bearings because of their ABEC5 rating. I'm not arguing with Whammo, I just tend to overdo things when I don't know for sure.

The vibration and noise are both reduced significantly. I took pictures of the install, just have been lazy and not posted them. I'll try to get them posted soon.

My 2 cents,

Gary
 
Porter-Cable 7310 Bearing Replacement Pictorial

First, let me say this is not a particularly difficult task. You need to take your time and not get in a hurry.
Also, I didn't remove the brushes when I disassembled the router and I could have screwed up the brushes. You need a #9 Torx to remove the brushes. It's nearly impossible to replace the armature without removing the brushes.
 

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More Pictures:
Assembly is the reverse of dis-assembly.
Hope someone finds this useful.
Gary
 

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bearings

Thanks for taking the time to do pictures, even though I've been through the process multiple times already. Extra thanks for the high dollar bearing feedback. I myself tend to overkill on occasion also. Since I have 7 of these trimmers, I guess I could give one set of bearings a shot just to satisfy my curiosity.
Mike
 
Greg,

Yea, I doubt many will wear out the commutator bars on the armature.

We do go through them, but we run our routers more than most.

I'm actually drawing up a mount right now to try the Bosch Colt. I too feel that the Dewalt isn't nearly as good a router as the original Porter Cable's were. I really like the speed control on the Colt. You just don't need to run them at full speed, and they are much quieter.

Royce Bunnell
www.obcues.com

Just a bit of info regarding the Colt. When the bearings fail on this router they start to get hot. The bottom bearing is seated in a nylon bushing, the heat from the bearing causes that sleeve to expand and after it cools that sleeve starts to develop play. Long story short you have to replace the bottom housing as well as the bearings.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/bearing-flange-p-120877.html?osCsid=072pm6ks2f64hbfl8psop6jh81
 
FWIW, I went down to the shop to turn a couple of shaft squares before going to league yesterday. Turned on the router and within 30 seconds, it started slowing down. Shut it off. Bearing(s) seized up!!:mad: I haven't taken the time to pull it all apart to see which one, though I suspect the bigger one on the bottom.

Waiting to hear from the vendor if they will replace it/them, but not expecting much. Total run time on those bearings was less than 2 hours.

So, unless I get free replacements, I won't be spending the money on ceramics again.

Worse, I'm down until I replace the bearings or the router motor.

FYI
Forewarned is forearmed
Yada yada yada

Gary
 
FWIW, I went down to the shop to turn a couple of shaft squares before going to league yesterday. Turned on the router and within 30 seconds, it started slowing down. Shut it off. Bearing(s) seized up!!:mad: I haven't taken the time to pull it all apart to see which one, though I suspect the bigger one on the bottom.

Waiting to hear from the vendor if they will replace it/them, but not expecting much. Total run time on those bearings was less than 2 hours.

So, unless I get free replacements, I won't be spending the money on ceramics again.

Worse, I'm down until I replace the bearings or the router motor.

FYI
Forewarned is forearmed

Yada yada yada

Gary



WOW! I figured that the ceramic bearings would last forever.......... Perhaps they couldn't take the speed or the load.

I guess it's back to the cheap steel bearings and changing them often.

Thanks for being the guinea pig......... LOL

Kim
 
WOW! I figured that the ceramic bearings would last forever.......... Perhaps they couldn't take the speed or the load.

I guess it's back to the cheap steel bearings and changing them often.

Thanks for being the guinea pig......... LOL

Kim

Squeak, squeak, squeak!! LOL

Well, I got the ABEC-5's because I they've got higher specs for speed, tolerance, etc, but they didn't hold up for me. As you know, this isn't a particularly difficult install, so I don't think I could get the bearings in crooked.

Oh well, chalk another one up to experience.

Gary
 
Squeak, squeak, squeak!! LOL

Well, I got the ABEC-5's because I they've got higher specs for speed, tolerance, etc, but they didn't hold up for me. As you know, this isn't a particularly difficult install, so I don't think I could get the bearings in crooked.

Oh well, chalk another one up to experience.

Gary

I have chalked up lots to experience......... but it always costs me money.......

LOL

Kim
 
I have to ask:

No disrespect intended but were the bearings installed correctly?

When driving a bearing onto a shaft, you apply pressure ONLY to the inner race & when pressing a bearing into a housing, you apply pressure ONLY to the outer race. With ceramic bearings in particular, this is CRITICAL.

Also, they should be pressed on - not tapped on. Since the ceramic is harder than the bearing races, brinnelling can occur from the impact.

Ceramic bearings have a pretty good rep - especially at high speeds. I've been wanting to try them myself & just want to be sure the installation wasn't part of the reason for the failure.

Again, I'm not questioning your ability but this is a question that begs to be asked.

Thank you in advance for any clarification you can offer.
 
No disrespect intended but were the bearings installed correctly?

When driving a bearing onto a shaft, you apply pressure ONLY to the inner race & when pressing a bearing into a housing, you apply pressure ONLY to the outer race. With ceramic bearings in particular, this is CRITICAL.

Also, they should be pressed on - not tapped on. Since the ceramic is harder than the bearing races, brinnelling can occur from the impact.

Ceramic bearings have a pretty good rep - especially at high speeds. I've been wanting to try them myself & just want to be sure the installation wasn't part of the reason for the failure.

Again, I'm not questioning your ability but this is a question that begs to be asked.

Thank you in advance for any clarification you can offer.

Hi Bob,

Don't worry, no disrespect taken, in fact I appreciate your input.

Yes I was careful, but probably not quite as careful as you described. The top bearing was a tight fit and required some tapping - I used a wooden dowel with a hole it it. Hole wasn't exactly the size of the shaft, so yes, some pressure could have slipped off onto the bearings.

The bottom bearing fit snugly, but not tightly into the housing. Again I used a wooden dowel very close to the O.D. of the bearing, but not exact. Just some light taps got it started in and I let the bearing retainer press it in the rest of the way when I re-attached the retainer.

So could it have been installation? Sure.

Hope this clarifies.

Gary
 
The top bearing was a tight fit and required some tapping - The bottom bearing fit snugly, but not tightly into the housing.
Thanks for your candid response. Please let us know what you discover upon teardown.
 
The Teardown

Thanks for your candid response. Please let us know what you discover upon teardown.

Bob, Kim, and anyone else who's interested,

What I found was that the TOP bearing had seized up, not the bottom as I originally postulated. It was the more difficult bearing to install, so I have to conclude that I boogered it up (technical term :grin:) when I installed it on the shaft.

When I pulled off the top cap of the router, the seal fell right out and the bearing keeper or bearing spacer - not sure of the right term - had self-destructed, as you can see in the picture below. At this point, I can't can't get the rest of the bearing off of the shaft, but the seal seems intact.

The bottom bearing shows no sign of wear and no damage.

Hope this helps,

Gary
 

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