recut vs veneer points

issycue

issycue

can't get enough
Silver Member
Hi all,

I've been reading a bit about recut points and am wondering what the real difference is, with respect to cue making... I like the look of either the re-cut points or the veneered points... I think the recut points I've seen had more height consistency than the veneered points, but the veneer points had more color options. how does the point construction differ?

I understand that some point splicing is done with veneers cut at perfect 45deg angles and 'wrapped' and glued to the point before spliced to the forearm wood into a 90deg angle descending (spliced) groove... is the recut points done in similar fassion?

For recut points, are points constructed/layered first, then laid into the forearm wood... i.e. the main point laid into a second grooved point and then glued and laid into another point first, etc... then the whole point construct glued into the forewarm wood...

OR...

Are the points recut on the forearm itself, point upon point. i.e., the ffirst point spliced into the forearm and glued up, turned, and then grooved for placement of second point... and that process continuing for each recut point?

And, last question, in your opinons, is the play of the cue affected by the different point contstructs? veneer or recut?
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veneers are mostly sycamore, i think,,,recuts are whatever the wood of choice. i don' see how that significantly alters the hit.

just my imo, but recuts should be no problem with today's machinery. machinists deal in tolerances that are much more demanding than cue points.

i'd like perfect veneers more than recuts(which all seem to be inherently perfect.), because i prefer to see the cuemaker going through the process and being rewarded with seamless miters. recuts to me is a way to skirt the labor involved in creating perfect veneerwork.
 
Issycue
You have the actual basics, I commend you. Re cuts can alter the weight and balance of the cue because of the different hardwoods used where veneers are either poplar or sycamore.

Bruin
You really have no idea how much work is involved with re milled and re cut points. We have talked about these variables for over 6 months and you think it's just a shortcut. As much as I respect you, That's just terrible.
 
Recuts...........

Recuts are so darn easy if you only been dreaming about building cues you should be able to handle it! Most of the cuemakers do this with one eye closed, one hand behind their back while standing on one leg.
You should know that by now!

Dave
 
Michael Webb said:
Issycue
Bruin
You really have no idea how much work is involved with re milled and re cut points. We have talked about these variables for over 6 months and you think it's just a shortcut. As much as I respect you, That's just terrible.
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hi mike. let's clear my interpretation of the word 'shortcut'. my use of the word is not to imply that recuts are a quick easy way(as in amount of labor or time involved), because you're right, i DON'T know the amount of labor involved. ...for all i know, it might take twice as long and twice the sweat to do recuts. but it is as i stated,,,,"because i prefer to see the cuemaker going through the process and being rewarded with seamless miters. "

it is the "artistic concept of the seamless miter" that is attractive to me, the artistic concept of the 'handmade"(for want of a better term)....that is avoided by using recuts. you can liken it to prefering sharp spliced points vs. rounded cnc's, perfectly handmade vs. factory made arts and crafts.
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
Recuts are so darn easy if you only been dreaming about building cues you should be able to handle it! Most of the cuemakers do this with one eye closed, one hand behind their back while standing on one leg.
You should know that by now!

Dave
Click to expand...
I heard you still use chisel to do them. :eek:
I'm not touching this one. :)
 
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JoeyInCali said:
I heard you still use chisel to do them. :eek:
I'm not touching this one. :)
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ooooo,,,joey,,,i saw your reply before you edited it :):):). what's the big deal about slapping three veneers together?

get an old 60's rental lathe,,,a router,,,and exacto blade,,,,and do this.....
 

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veneers...........and chisels

Paul,
You seem to have a pretty good understanding about the two different procedures your talking about. It's really just a matter of the cue builders choice. Both ways take a certain technique to make them turn out best that can be. With the *recuts* or self made veneers you have some color limitations unless you want to take the time and color dye the recuts yourself also.
There are a few different types of woods used to make the color dyed...european sycamore and/or maple being the two that I would use for a cue.
As far as changing the way a cue will feel, play, respond, act, resonate, hit, vibrate, feedback, quiver, anything else it wants to be called ( help me out, did I miss any) everything that is done to a cue will change it in some way.
How much...................? It's up to the end user to decide.
Both ways have stunning effects if properly done. But if you are doing veneers that are cut at two 45 degree angles you can not have them be seamless. Some seams are just executed properly.

Dave
Trying to figure out how to sharpen my chisel.....................
 
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bruin70 said:
ooooo,,,joey,,,i saw your reply before you edited it :):):). what's the big deal about slapping three veneers together?

get an old 60's rental lathe,,,a router,,,and exacto blade,,,,and do this.....
Click to expand...
Maybe I'm speaking of my own setup.
If I had to do recuts, I'll have to do cuts, glue the point stock.
Don't touch the setup.:eek:
Take the dried blank and turn it down.
Go back to the setup, take cuts again.
Do the same thing all over again.
OF course if I had a setup where v-points stock can be grooved before gluing on to the forearm blank, it'd make it cake.

Veneers? Let's put it this way. House cues used to come with them.
None of those house cues had recuts. :eek:
Now, how many makers do recuts and how many do veneers? :)
Those who do recuts, might not want you to see their setup.

I agree that recut cues have better reasonance over veneered ones but that's another can of worms.
 
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Your absolutely correct.............

OF course if I had a setup where v-points stock can be grooved before gluing on to the forearm blank, it'd make it cake.
.....................................................................................................

It's so easy doing this way that I can put both feet on the desk at the same time!

Dave
 
BarenbruggeCues said:
OF course if I had a setup where v-points stock can be grooved before gluing on to the forearm blank, it'd make it cake.
.....................................................................................................

It's so easy doing this way that I can put both feet on the desk at the same time!

Dave
Click to expand...
Damn!!!
Must be a compound angle saw.
Or a fancy grandfather clock with an ax.
 
Easy.........

Just a plain old milling machine with a set up bisecting the 90 degree right angle quadrant of the afore mentioned disecting angles.
Very simple to achieve once you put both feet up.
 
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