recut vs veneer points
- Thread starter issycue
- Start date
jazznpool said:
Youse guys? I'm so conf
sed.More caffee, that'll do it. If not a ride in my ca.
re-cuts
about 12yrs ago i did a 4 point re-cut with square stock once, but making the points even after was a bit of a pain. and doing it on round or tapered stock with limited equipment makes indexing a pain.
M.C.
about 12yrs ago i did a 4 point re-cut with square stock once, but making the points even after was a bit of a pain. and doing it on round or tapered stock with limited equipment makes indexing a pain.
M.C.
PoolSleuth
Banned
Another intresting piece of information about Cue construction.
bruin70 said:ooooo,,,joey,,,i saw your reply before you edited it. what's the big deal about slapping three veneers together?
get an old 60's rental lathe,,,a router,,,and exacto blade,,,,and do this.....
Now I could own a veneered cue where the veneers were as well done as this! I tend to go with recut/remilled to guarantee that there aren't any glue lines. I also like the look of hardwoods quite a lot even though you can get brighter, more vivid, colors through dyed sycamore.
merylane said:
C'mon...... let it out....Tell us how you really feel ...................
merylane said:
Tell us your thoughts Yoda.
BarenbruggeCues said:
A simple acurate V-block setup might would work depending on the cutting tool. I could even see setting up a router to do it with alittle imagination. Might be a hair more material loss, because the bottom v-blanks may need to be longer in order to clamp them down, but I could see it working.
And how do you propose holding that wood so it doesn't kick back and hit me in the family jewels?Cue Crazy said:
I have to be careful. I only have one left. I lost the other one when someone's cueball flew off the table after breaking.
Cue Crazy said:
This is why I tell people there is a difference between re milled and re cut with a router set up on a lathe, a little patience, maybe a little cussing okay maybe a lot of cussing, each set up deserves it own discipline and respect but the same can be said about finding your own comfortable solution to veneers, In my opinion there is no wrong way if it turns out the way you the CUE MAKER wanted it. I was raised to believe asking and searching for help from more knowledged people can be tough but you will always find someone who wants to criticise.
Joey, sorry about the jewels, YEOUCH.
JoeyInCali said:And how do you propose holding that wood so it doesn't kick back and hit me in the family jewels?
I have to be careful. I only have one left. I lost the other one when someone's cueball flew off the table after breaking.
LOL, Well I never said I have'nt dodged a few of those
, but what am I missing, Please tell me, because I don't move as fast anymore. Why could'nt You just make the bottom piece longer like I mentioned, and Make your v-blocks into a clamp, heck drive a screw through them If it helps, since that piece would be waste in the end anyhow, and make your cuts between the clamps then chop each end off after your done. The setups would look different depending on the angle of cut from the cutter you use. I could see chatter, or problems from cutting too thin, but would I have to worry about kickback? Seems like you could use a straight bit to flatten the area before making the v-cut. Hope I was clear, I'm not talking about doing them on a lathe. I'm talking about installing the middles before cutting the forearm, so you don't have to reset the lathe up to cut one set of grooves then change over to a trim taper setup, and back to cutting only to have your setting off and thinning one side out or something. I'm also talking about a short blank not splice, so maybe I'm just misunderding the topic or something. This would be a dedicated machine much like a mill or possibly a mill If the rpms were high enough. I'm not suggesting anyone try this, I'm just brainstorming an idea here. Even If you just wanted the v-point blanks closer to size, so you can glue them in while still in the index/lathe, and try making another cut afterwards without trimming it might be good for something. Any of it would depend on the setup though. I could get kickback from My table saw if not setup correctly. I have
, and barely dodged that one with My little buddy on the right
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Michael Webb said:
Mike, Please Give It to Me straight, you know I get sooooo confused sometimes
Am I going down the wrong road In My thinking, or just misunderstanding the topic? I've been alittle wishy wasy the last couple of days, so it could be either.
Cue Crazy said:Mike, Please Give It to Me straight, you know I get sooooo confused sometimes
You are on the right road, all machines and fixtures start with just an idea. Research and development never ends.
LOL, I think a light bulb finally went off, It suddenly became apparent to Me, that It's probably alot more simple then what all I'm putting into it, and you really don't need a jig, just the correct machine & cutter to go with It. The only real modification would be to set the depth & height correctly I bet. The funny thing Is I have used alot of the material this setup is designed to make in both wood and metal. It would be nice to buy the material already made up, but might be hard to get the kind of exotics we like in cuebuiding.
I can think of a saw too, but that may be more dependent on a jig.
Wow.bruin70 said:
I can't imagine a single cuemaker who would think that a recut is a labor saver. I think that both the precision demands and the labor are greater for the recuts. A cuemaker is setting themselves up for a tremendous amount of effort and setup to avoid uneven inner points. They're also setting themselves up for a longer build process. And then there's the mutliplied danger of hitting a void.
For me, if we're making an analogy (ed. to the work involved) in a spliced points vs. flat-bottom floating points, then the recuts woud be the spliced points, and the stacked veneers would be the flat-bottom points, (edit: as far as a comparison of which one takes more work and precision) not vice versa.
Fred
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PoolSleuth
Banned
Cornerman said:
Well said Fred... Recutts are a hell of a lot of work, and could be a Disaster with one bad cutt.
I was just making an analogy as to which one took more work and precision, in a response to someone else's analogy. I didn't mean to make it sound like anything anything other than that. And I'm sure I could have been clearer, and used a more appropriate comparison. Upon re-reading it, I wrote it absolutely horribly. I'll add an edit note.TellsItLikeItIs said:
That is, the comparison between a V-groove (half-spliced) point vs. a flat-bottom point, I think most cuemakers would agree that the V-groove point requires more work, time, and precision to get correct.
Likewise, comparing a V-groove point with stacked veneers vs. multiple successive V-groove points (remilled points), that the majority of cuemaker would agree that the remilled points require more work, time, and precision.
Fred
Logic tells me not to use V-blocks.Cue Crazy said:
I can think of a saw too, but that may be more dependent on a jig.
Cut the groove for the aluminum holder with the router setup already on rails.
Make the rounter height adjustable following a taper bar. Height ( gravity dependent ) determines the thickness of each point.
if you infered that i meant recut to be a labor-saving procedure, then you will see that i later clarified my point. what i meant was that recuts provide a means to circumvent the need to hide miters in veneerwork. now,,,some people do sh!tty veneers, and some might see veneers as having an inherent flaw because they might view visible miters as a flaw.........whatever. if one has an aesthetic, one strives for that aesthetic no matter what. the end justifies the means.Cornerman said:
i see the aesthetic of veneers,,,i don't see the aesthetic of recuts. perfect recuts , imo, no matter what the procedural difficulties, seem to be a natural end result.
let's put it this way,,,,,,i've seen endless examples of bad(let's say not perfect) veneerwork, but i've never seen bad recuts.
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