recut vs veneer points

[rhncue]

A few of the cuemakers have decided to go the ebony veneer route because of the way the harder wood *point out* in the points. If that makes any sense!
Not saying it is the easiest or the only way..........just one that some have chosen.

Black is black, all other colors have thousands of differant shades. By using a black or ebony veneer on the bottom you can use black glue to install the point and any voids or not perfect edges are filled and look perfect.

Dick

 

[merylane]

Black is black, all other colors have thousands of differant shades. By using a black or ebony veneer on the bottom you can use black glue to install the point and any voids or not perfect edges are filled and look perfect.

Dick

????????????????????????????

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

????????????????????????????

I think his finger got stuck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm not a big fan of using black or colored glue myself for forearm glue ups.
My experience has been a negative one trying that. I found for myself that I had to go back and rethink the cuts I was making on the male and female parts so they could be fit properly before gluing.

 

[bruin70]

i think it's pretty sad when there's gaps in points in the first place. there simply SHOULDN'T be. i'm talking about splices.

the only cuemaker i've ever seen who had glue gaps in points AND windows was schuler. but his were pantographed, iirc. just never got the hang of it.

 

[Michael Webb]

I think his finger got stuck!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm not a big fan of using black or colored glue myself for forearm glue ups.
My experience has been a negative one trying that. I found for myself that I had to go back and rethink the cuts I was making on the male and female parts so they could be fit properly before gluing.

Well said,
Time for a root beer yet?

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

I need to be told twice.......

but only asked once. I'm headed to the ice box as I type.

 

[Cue Crazy]

Could someone Please explain to me the differences in a recut & remilled to make sure I got them right. I assume recut would be used In something more like a fullsplice with a saw, and the shorts could be done either way, but I may be confused here. Does a recut just basically mean a saw was used as opposed to milling/remilled with router or milling machine?


To the one I just replied to in PM, I noticed afterwards that you mentioned fullsplice, sorry bout that, It's a different senerio I'm sure, and I was refering to short blanks . I tried to reply back, but Your box was full. Still let me know your imput regarding what I mentioned.

Greg

 

[Cue Crazy]

What I call a remill would be something similar to your avatar. If you had cut the Turquoise into the flat bottom point larger, so as to make the brown wood a veneer, (once again, to me) that would have been a remilled point.

A recut (usually done on a milling machine) is a V grooved point that has a subsequent V groove cut into it to accomodate another piece of point wood.

Sometimes the terminology varies by geography I guess.

Thank You,
Guess I Had It right in the first place, and just started looking into It too deeply here or just went clueless. I was starting to put them in the same catagory with the v-cut.
In that case there's definatly a difference, but they both have a certain degree of difficulty to get them perfect I suppose.

These would be considered remilled then correct.

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

Sometimes the terminology varies by geography I guess.

I always viewed recuts.....remills as the same, veneers made by the cuemaker.
Butt sleeve= back......forearm=front........handle=wrap area
It can all be so confusing sometimes!
What you are showing in your avatar to me would be inlays.
(the cnc guys are going to hate me for this one) ....drill and fill....cut pockets and pieces to fit.....properly of course!

Like Tells sez.........really depends on what neck of the woods you came from.

 

[bruin70]

What I call a remill would be something similar to your avatar. If you had cut the Turquoise into the flat bottom point larger, so as to make the brown wood a veneer, (once again, to me) that would have been a remilled point.

A recut (usually done on a milling machine) is a V grooved point that has a subsequent V groove cut into it to accomodate another piece of point wood.

Sometimes the terminology varies by geography I guess.

it all sounds like the same thing, just a difference in the manner of sequence. i was told by a member here, that recuts are points cut into points,,,while in remills all the points and subsequent overlay of additional points are done first before the whole is placed in the nose.


....whatever..........it's all the same.

 

[JoeyInCali]

it all sounds like the same thing, just a difference in the manner of sequence. i was told by a member here, that recuts are points cut into points,,,while in remills all the points and subsequent overlay of additional points are done first before the whole is placed in the nose.


....whatever..........it's all the same.

Semantics, perhaps?
Re-milled. meaning an end-mill was used.
Recuts v-cutter was used.
Re-milled inlays do not sit on the previous inlay ( doesn't have to ).
Re-cuts sit on the previous points.

 

[Jack Madden]

Wow.

I can't imagine a single cuemaker who would think that a recut is a labor saver. I think that both the precision demands and the labor are greater for the recuts. A cuemaker is setting themselves up for a tremendous amount of effort and setup to avoid uneven inner points. They're also setting themselves up for a longer build process.

Fred

You are right and points need to be even on all points - but they are beautiful when done!

Jack
www.johnmaddencues.com