For Our Tournaments We Have 4 Set Of Bruns. Cent. Set Aside For Tournament Play Only. They Come With Blue Circle Cue Balls. Well Someone Forgot To Put The Blues Away After The Last Tourny. They Were Behind The Bar. When I Went To Put Them Out I Almost Fainted, They Look Like They Had Blue Chicken Pox. No Offence To Blue Chickens. Someone Pointed Out That The Marks Are From Breaking With Phenolic Tips. Can't Remove These Stains. Now Our Regular Red Balls Cue Don't Stain Like This. Now I Am Under The Imperssion That The Blues Are A Little Better Ball, That's Why They Come With The Cent. Sets. Anybody Shed Some Light On This. Will Be Using New Reds For This Weekends Tournaments. Thanks.
Red Circle, Blue Circle
- Thread starter BANKONIT
- Start date
BANKONIT said:
From the places i play.. ive used brand new red circles.. new blue circles new aramith (from the super pro sets) and the measles (new super pro sets)
and after playing with all of them from new right out the box the blue circle seems to get beaten up the most. it looks like its bruised everywhere. the others dont have anything on them. but i never liked the way the red circle moves around the table.
From what I understand, the red circle is made of carom pool resin, while the blue circle is made of the same resin as the aramith balls. The carom pool resin is more resilient, and as you found out, is less apt to staining. The blue circle is very well matched to the size and weight of the balls, because it is made in the same way as the balls, and with the same material, but I'm not sure that makes it a "better ball". I think it is mostly a matter of preference. Many people believe that they are different weights, but they both weigh the same. The difference in the way they play is due to the different materials, and the weight distribution. The blue has more weight toward the center, while the red has more weight near the outside of the ball. The result is that the red holds any applied spin longer, sort of like a flywheel, often causing it to travel further. This is just my understanding, and because much of it is based on things I have heard second hand, I'm not sure how accurate it is.
desert1pocket said:
wow if anyone out there can shed more light on this thatd be great. ive always noticed a diff. just couldnt put my finger on it.
I agree with a lot of what D1P had to say. What I would add is that the blue circle plays a bit more lively, and the red circle more sluggish (controlled).
I don't know that either is "Better". It may be that the blue is just better suited because of the similarities with the set it comes with. I prefer the red circle generally, especially on new cloth. It certainly boils down to a personal preference.
Gene
I don't know that either is "Better". It may be that the blue is just better suited because of the similarities with the set it comes with. I prefer the red circle generally, especially on new cloth. It certainly boils down to a personal preference.
Gene
desert1pocket said:
ahhh...
That explains everything to me about the red circle. I knew there was somthing different.. just didnt know what exactly it was!
I think that only the red circle is like that.. the blue and the aramith doesnt have the red circle feel to it. the measles i think has a little bit of what the red circle has...
But that still doesnt explain why the blue circle gets bruised up and the others dont.
I noticed a big difference in breaking as well. At Chris's here, the sets are mixed with blue and red circles and the reds are definitely lighter. I don't know if they are all aramith's or what, but these red circles here feel like a ball of styrofoam compared to the blue circles.
I always thought the red circles were lighter. They are easier to draw, and harder to follow with, and they deflect a lot more than the blue circles which stay on line better which is crucial for safeties and for gauging scratches, not to mention the path on getting to the first rail for multiple rails.
If I'm playing safe behind a ball or cluster with a red circle, I always take that wider deflection into account when I play it.
I can't help you with how to remove the stains, though.
If I'm playing safe behind a ball or cluster with a red circle, I always take that wider deflection into account when I play it.
I can't help you with how to remove the stains, though.
Blue circle and red circle balls weigh the same. In order to get an accurate weight comparison, they must both be weighed while brand new. If either is played, it will have had a certain amount of erosion take place.
As mentioned before, they play differently because of the composition, not a weight difference.
Gene
As mentioned before, they play differently because of the composition, not a weight difference.
Gene
I tried a black dot from Meuller, I like the yellowish tint, and it seems to be a bit more lively than the red dot. If you want to get rid of those blue dots drop me a line, I could always use them for practice (Masse' and hard jump shots) and I wouldnt be woried to much If I jumped them off the table..
SPINDOKTOR
SPINDOKTOR
BANKONIT said:
It sounds very much like D1P and most of the guys here have summed up the main differences in the red and blue circle cueballs, but as reguards why the blue circle has stained in the way it has, has made me wonder about something, just when you mention about pheonolic tips...
Although all bililiard balls (To my knowledge) nowadays, are made with pheonolic resin, but like D1P has siad, there are slight differences in the material used, and this is also the same with pheonlic tips.
To me, it sounds like that there may have been some people using J, B or J/B cues, where the tip has been sanded/scuffed in some way to hold chalk a little bit better, and if that's the case, then yes this will cause the staining of the cueball as it will be just the same effect as a cueball jumping off the table and hitting a colored painted wall, as you will get the same colored stained scuff marks on them, and although this can be a nightmare to remove, it can be done
Try putting the blue circle cueballs into a plastic bowl with hot soapy water and let them sit for 10 minutes to steep, then get an old tooth brush and gently brush over the scuff marks with the cueballs still in the water, this should remove any chalk marks on the cueballs, once finished, have a towel laid out and set the cueballs on the towel to drip dry on the towel, once you've done this, give 'em a quick run through with some ball polishing fluid (or run 'em through a polishing machine if available), once you get this done, the cue balls should be in great condition and ready for play once again
I hope that this helps, but if all else fails, just order replacement blue circle cueballs, you should be able to get 'em no probs
Willie