red dot/blue dot/measles /wavy red cueballs

Here's the real deal, and this comes straight from Aramith:

The Pro Cup (measle) and red logo ball are both made with the Super Aramith Pro resin. This is their top of the line resin except perhaps for the new Tournaments that are made with the Super Aramith Pro resin with Duramith technology, whatever that is.

The blue circle (not blue dot) is also made with the Super Aramith Pro resin.

The red dot (not red circle) and blue dot (not blue circle) are both made with the lower end Aramith Premier resin.

The red circle ball is kind of Aramith's generic cue and is made with the Super Aramith resin (not the Super Aramith Pro resin).

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The Pro Cup (measle) ball, the red logo ball, and the blue circle ball are all the same cue ball. ThePro Cup comes with the Super Aramith Pro TV set, the red logo ball comes with the regular Super Aramith Pro set, and the blue circle comes with the Brunswick Centennials, which is the Brunswick branded version of the same set. Since all three sets are the same and the sets are said to be matched, it makes sense that they are all the same cue ball.

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As far as weights go, they mean nothing. All Aramith balls are "official" which means they are within specs. But because the weight spec is 5.5oz. to 6.0 oz. variances can and do occur all the time. Because the Centennial and Super Pro sets are said to be matched (for weight, size, and color) then all the balls in a new original set should be close in weight, cue ball included.

But when introducing a replacement or aftermarket cue ball to a set, it can obviously have a different weight. This is the problem with buying a measle ball, for example, to go with a set of Super Pros or Centennials. The set may be heavier or lighter than the replacement cue ball. That's why posting the weights of individual cue balls means nothing. Same thing with weighing an original cue ball to the rest of a used set because wear no comes into play.

Here is a good source of information on Dr. Dave's website. Some of the contributions in this section come from AZ members, myself included. He also has a link to the original word document that I received from Saluc and gave to him that was the source for the above info on their balls.

http://billiards.colostate.edu/threads/balls.html#cue_ball_types

thanks alot for the reply and link......:thumbup:
especially clarifying the difference among blue circle vs dot and red circle vs dot
 
Here is an excellent article about pool balls, cue balls and weight.

http://www.poolchat.net/modules/sect...ticle&artid=65

I believe if the cue ball is lighter than the object balls, it deflects at a much wider angle and is very easy to draw. With a slight angle and inside draw, the cueball can be made to take a very unusual angle. It just isn't pool when everything becomes a guessing game, mainly due to worn out equipment. Balls that are very worn down, rebound differently when banked, will sometimes jump into the air off a rail and go wide when they usually bank short. I carry in my case, a red circle cue ball that is worn, but it makes the game predictable in both shotmaking and position.





how do they play??
whats the difference
p.s by wavy red i mean this cue ball
http://www.ozonebilliards.com/suarprocueba.html
 
You're very welcome. Here's another link to Dr. Dave's site that explains how CB weight affects play. In this overview there are links to more detailed articles:

http://billiards.colostate.edu/threads/balls.html#weight

Dave has some great info there! I was referring earlier to a blue dot ball, that Dynamo used. Unlike the blue dot Aramith ball, this one weighs a ton and is for the older trap bar boxes. There are so many cue balls out there, IMO as long as the ball weighs equally with the object balls, it's fine with me.
 
Dave has some great info there! I was referring earlier to a blue dot ball, that Dynamo used. Unlike the blue dot Aramith ball, this one weighs a ton and is for the older trap bar boxes. There are so many cue balls out there, IMO as long as the ball weighs equally with the object balls, it's fine with me.

Boy, does he ever. One of these days, as soon as I can carve out enough free time, I'm planning on taking a vacation to http://billiards.colostate.edu/ There's more to see there than Disney World. Probably take a week or so, just lying on a beach or at poolside with a tablet and internet access. :rotflmao1:
 
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Did you know there was a minimum length for a pool cue but there was no maximum........minimum is 40".

Did you know the shaft can be as thin as you want but it cannot be wider than 14mm......or that the ferrule of a cue stick, if made of a metal material, may not be more than 1 inch (2,54cm) in length (Rule 17)............some might think this isn't interesting or important but it really does help to know the rules.......just like in golf, one never knows when it might come in handy. i.e., illegal jump cue in a tournament and you call it when it matters the most.

Thats interesting. I have an alumunum pool cue from probably the late 70s, I thought it might work good for breaking so I put a new leather tip on it to try out, I was wrong..... So that must make this cue illegal? Dadgum it, I was going to use it this Wednesday for league :rotflmao1:
 
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