Repairable or not ???????

:rotflmao1::killingme:

QUOTE=leon sly;5009805]he had a flat tire and used the handle to jack up the car.

:cool::cool::cool:[/QUOTE]
 
since i've never done it....

Throwing myself to the wolves, so flame away.

My guess is that with both of the failures shown, hydraulic pressure caused by pin insertion was the main culprit. If the adhesive doesn't have anywhere to go when the pin is put in, then the pressure either cracks the forearm immediately or it remains indefinitely.

As far as fixing. If there aren't any pieces missing...

1. I'd remove the pin.

2. Chuck it up so I can work with it.

3. Blow it off with dry air.

4. Apply Titebond translucent

5. Since the break at the collar looks clean I would apply very slight pressure on the front to keep it in place.

6. Squeeze out excess glue and clean

7. Clamp with surgical tubing

8. Get berated for suggesting ^^^^^
 
There's a reason that I asked if the cue in question was a McD.
The pin DOES NOT extend into the forearm. If it had.....well who knows.
The pin only exists on the face of the jnt. collar.
That's why I said to send it to McD or Ryan; I want nothing to do with it.

KJ
 
pescadoman said:
I'll retell my story about a highend Gina.

I never saw the guy slam or otherwise abuse the cue.

Only time I ever saw him mistreat it was when he simply let it fall after a missed shot in a money game.

To be clear. It was vertical, buttcap on ground, and he let it fall to the floor.

The forearm snapped in half and the entire room gasped.

After it was fixed I couldn't tell it was broken...
Click to expand...

I have seen this as well. This may sound innocent, but what is overlooked is as the cue falls it is accelerating. By the time the tip has traveled 90 degrees of a circle with 58" radius, it has picked up some speed. The owner might as well smack it really good on the table if he is going to do this.
 
pescadoman said:
Throwing myself to the wolves, so flame away.

My guess is that with both of the failures shown, hydraulic pressure caused by pin insertion was the main culprit. If the adhesive doesn't have anywhere to go when the pin is put in, then the pressure either cracks the forearm immediately or it remains indefinitely.

As far as fixing. If there aren't any pieces missing...

1. I'd remove the pin.

2. Chuck it up so I can work with it.

3. Blow it off with dry air.

4. Apply Titebond translucent

5. Since the break at the collar looks clean I would apply very slight pressure on the front to keep it in place.

6. Squeeze out excess glue and clean

7. Clamp with surgical tubing

8. Get berated for suggesting ^^^^^
Click to expand...

I am not one to arbitrarily flame peeps. No berating here, but I disagree. IMO, the main culprit was the lateral stress on the cue exceeded the woods breaking point. Period. Natural flaws in a piece of wood can sometimes make that breaking point rather low. Any speculation on cracking the forearm during a pin install, particularly when there is no apparent evidence of this, is ignoring the simple physics of why it broke and too much reversed soothsaying.

My thought on repair:
1. Remove pin.
2. Hold cue straight in lathe.
3. Clamp nose to forearm using slow epoxy. The slow epoxy will allow the joint collar to be indicated. Work at this until the piece is glued and clamped so that the joint collar turns as true as possible.
4. Let completely cure.
5. Chuck up on forearm and drill hole using favorite forearm gun drill.
6. Install Core.
7. Face off core and install a new joint pin using normal methods.
8. Decide I'm all wet and do it the way AZ's resident rodent would do it.

I'm with KJ, I don't think I would relish fooling with it either.
 
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I love repairs like this. My approach depends on a few factors as every cue unique and every break is unique.
 
i agree with mvpcues

BUT, having said that, if a customer brought this cue to me, i would send to to ryan.
 
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