Replacing 3/8x10 with 3/8x10

[Michael Webb]

Easier to install accurately. As to claims that they will actually change the way the cue plays, I don't think I could ever tell the difference between pins of similar weight.

Thanks Sheldon

 

[cuesmith]

I may buy a sneaky with a regular 3/8x10 pin, and I want to have it changed to the SW style 3/8x10 with the flat minor and more shaft contact. Is this an easy change that won't require any reboring or re tapping?

Thanks
Ian

Since when is Southwest using a 3/8 X 10 Pin??? They always used to use a 3/8 X 11 TPI with the "carriage bolt looking" threads.

Sherm

 

[masonh]

he said SW style meaning the 3/8-10 that looks like the SW pin,it has similar thread pattern.

 

[cuesmith]

Easier to install accurately. As to claims that they will actually change the way the cue plays, I don't think I could ever tell the difference between pins of similar weight.

Dave Kersenbrock was one of my mentors when I first started making cues seriously. He came up with that pin originally. I asked him once about it and he told me he'd been experimenting with different pins and basically decided that as long as it securely connected the two pieces, that there wasn't a noticeable difference. The familiar brass, 3/8 X 11 pins that he's known for, were sort of an accident. He wanted to try a similar pin using SS and made some proto-types from brass, as it was a lot easier to work with, to try out. As luck would have it, he built a batch of cues using these proto-type pins and took them to a tournament in Chicago where he sold out and was sort of "discovered". Up til then he was relatively unknown. He decided that "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" and continued with this pin. The rest is history!

just more hot air!!

Sherm

 

[WheatCues]

I may buy a sneaky with a regular 3/8x10 pin, and I want to have it changed to the SW style 3/8x10 with the flat minor and more shaft contact. Is this an easy change that won't require any reboring or re tapping?

Thanks
Ian

Actually, try swelling the threads in the shaft first before going through all that trouble and expense.....

This will definitley give you a tighter fit and should give you lateral contact with the threads....

just squirt a little water from a spray bottle into the hole, wait 4sec then turn it over and shake it out then use a shop vack or air compresssor to blow the hole dry...

this is an old trick we use in the repair business to tighten up loose shafts... it works very well and lasts for a long time !

Food for thought.... once that shaft is locked down and the threads are touching radially then the pins only job is to hold it together... it's not going to be a noticable difference from a playability standpoint and harmonics should be pretty equal after swelling the threads in the shaft....


- Eddie Wheat