replacing a shaft with rings

K

Kimball

Registered
I would like to review the procedure for replacing a customer's shaft.

To create a new shaft using the rings from the old shaft:
1. Remove rings from old shaft using drill/boring bar. The old insert is destroyed in this procedure.
2. Resurface rings (both sides)
3. Cut tenon on new shaft to accept rings, mount rings and resurface.
4. Drill, tap, and install new insert.
5. Turn new shaft round using insert as center and taper.

2 Ton epoxy is used for through out.

Am I missing anything? Thanks for all the knowledge that I have gained from the forum.
 
You seem to have the basic concept. Some find it easier to remove a brass insert by using a soldering iron to heat it instead of boring it.;)
 
I thought about heating the insert and breaking it loose, but, it seems easier to just destroy it and not have the worry about heat damaging the existing rings. (My next big question will be using heat to remove a bent joint pin...) Thanks for your response.
 
Kimball said:
I would like to review the procedure for replacing a customer's shaft.

To create a new shaft using the rings from the old shaft:
1. Remove rings from old shaft using drill/boring bar. The old insert is destroyed in this procedure.
2. Resurface rings (both sides)
3. Cut tenon on new shaft to accept rings, mount rings and resurface.
4. Drill, tap, and install new insert.
5. Turn new shaft round using insert as center and taper.

2 Ton epoxy is used for through out.

Am I missing anything? Thanks for all the knowledge that I have gained from the forum.
Click to expand...

Other than a Meucci that has some weird, molded plastic rings I use new rings 95% of the time. However, if I am going to use the same rings over again, I don't go to all that trouble of cutting and boring and cleaning the rings to reuse and then having to put in a new insert and trying to get the rings that are already oriented to the insert to align up again on the new shaft. Instead, I mearly turn the old shaft down to .525 ths. from the front of the deco-rings forward 2" with the old shaft attached to the butt. I then cut off this section with the deco-rings and insert still in place a now just drill a .500 ths hole in the new shaft, bore out so that the plug with the insert and deco-rings are a nice fit and then, with the plug screwed onto the butt I glue the shaft onto the plug with the ferrule end in the tail stock so as to be perfectly straight. I now turn the shaft down to the deco-rings which are already a perfect fit to the butt since there has been no change. This takes less than half the time and turns out a better job than doing it the other way as mentioned.

Dick
 
Another user posted this method a while back. I never had the chance to use it but if I get a customer who wants this work done, this is the method I would use. I believe it was Macguy who posted the method, but I'm not positive. This was mostly how it went:

1. Cut old shaft all the way through about 2 inches from the joint (using a bandsaw or similar tool)

2. Mount a mandrel on the lathe that has the male thread of the shaft insert. Make sure the mandrel is running true. Thread onto this mandrel the 2 inch long piece of the old shaft. (You can also use the butt of the cue instead of the mandrel. This might work even better, especially if the original cuemaker made the shaft match the butt this way)

3. Turn a tenon of the appropriate diameter (for you to determine based on your specific circumstances) up to the right edge of the joint ring. Then face the right edge of the joint ring.

4. Remove this setup, and hold the new shaft in the lathe the way you normally put the collars and joints on.

5. Drill then bore a hole in the end of the shaft that the tenon you finished in the previous steps will fit into with a slip fit.

6. Glue together the new shaft and the old collars.

The method allows you to keep the insert, the stitch rings, and any joint pilot details from the old shaft, ensuring the new shaft will fit the same way to the butt.
 
I had forgotten this approach, I believe that I read about in one of Blud's postings. I appreciate everyone pointing this method out to me and that is what I am going to do.

Thanks for taking the time to help.
 
You might want to reconsider step 2.
I find it best to bore the ring from the joint end. Dial indicate them, then bore, and cut then cut them off very carefully with a really sharp parting tool. I like to NOT have to try and face the inside edge of the old rings. If you can cut them off nice and clean, the face will be truer than if you tried to face afterwards. Dick's method might be real nice for crap cues with off-center pins. It can be a bit of a pain to make them fit right if this is the case.
 
Sheldon said:
You might want to reconsider step 2.
I find it best to bore the ring from the joint end. Dial indicate them, then bore, and cut then cut them off very carefully with a really sharp parting tool. I like to NOT have to try and face the inside edge of the old rings. If you can cut them off nice and clean, the face will be truer than if you tried to face afterwards. Dick's method might be real nice for crap cues with off-center pins. It can be a bit of a pain to make them fit right if this is the case.
Click to expand...

Sheldon, When I make a shaft for a off center pin I make the shaft normally and then put the cue in the lathe using a four jaw independent chuck. I get the the very end of the joint to run true and then put on the over sized shaft and turn it down to the joint which is running true although the pin itself is oscillating. I then take the shaft and chuck it up as the deco-ring is now running true to the butt. I then take a 60deg. carbide router bit and slowly true up the insert so the chamfer of the insert is now true to the deco-rings although the threads are still true to the pin. I can now put this into my shaft machine to make my final pass so that the whole shaft is trued up to the joint. Just, of coarse, got to make sure you do what ever facing that needs done before fitting to the butt. I took a 3 inch 4-jaw independent chuck I had got from Penn State Industries for about 50 bucks about 10 years ago and turned a short lip on the back of it so that I can just mount it into my scroll chuck and bored it out so that I can use it to install Butt caps easily also without changing my main chuck and having to go to the trouble of aligning it back up on re-install.

Dick
 
rhncue said:
I then take the shaft and chuck it up as the deco-ring is now running true to the butt. I then take a 60deg. carbide router bit and slowly true up the insert so the chamfer of the insert is now true to the deco-rings although the threads are still true to the pin. I can now put this into my shaft machine to make my final pass so that the whole shaft is trued up to the joint.
Click to expand...
Interesting, I never thought of doing that, but it makes good sense.
I chuck up on the cue and true up the collars, but after cutting the rest of the shaft to finished size.
Moving the center and cutting the whole thing one more time WOULD be a bit nicer, I think.
 
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