"resin dud"
- Thread starter D-Rock
- Start date
nope, but please let us know how it turnes out...
Serious???
Why don't you just live by the rules? From the BCA leagues rulebook:
d. The cue tip must be composed of leather, fibrous, or pliable material. The cue tip on break cues must be made of leather with no non-leather materials added to the contacting surface.
d. The cue tip must be composed of leather, fibrous, or pliable material. The cue tip on break cues must be made of leather with no non-leather materials added to the contacting surface.
I used an infusion resin.It worked for about a dozen or so breaks. Then shattered like glass into pieces.
From looking at it, you coud not tell it was infused with resin.
Anyway,I tried it once and failed, so just added it to the do not do again list.
That would mean no laminated tips then.
The rule says "no non-leather materials added to the contacting surface." The glue in a laminated tip isn't on the contacting surface.
the resin won't be on the contacting surface either. It would just act like a glue, most of it would be pressed out when the tip is pressed.
I don't see how it can be impregnated into the tip without its being on the surface as well. And even if that were possible, the contacting surface is not fixed for all time - they wear down or are scuffed down.
As a side note - after watching some of the US Open this past week, it seems that many of the pros aren't using the big bang for breaks. Ralf and Mika, for example, were shooting a little off center trying to make the wing ball, and were doing it most of the time.
You would eventually run into the glue on a laminated tip also then wouldn't you?. Fiberglass resin is just another type of glue.
I was thinking about seeing if a cheap tip like a Lepro would soak up thin super glue. It might ended up crumbling though. I think I'll give it a try and see what happens.
Sure it can be. Because of the curvature of the tip (e.g., "dime shaped"), the contacting surface often is composed of leather from more than one of the layers of leather -- as well as some of the glue at the seams between layers.
Thats where i was going with this. I build custom stereo boxes so i have Fiberglass resin around that i can dilute and throw some tips in to soak. I also have a hydraulic shop press that I can gauge the pressure. Pretty much just goofing off with ideas.
Well, ya got me there. I never noticed any glue as I trimmed a tip down, but it must be there, I guess.
I think this is getting too dang technical. Why can't we just try and understand the rules, use super pro, white diamond or samsara, and leave it at that?
Getting too much into the equipment without having exhausted your practice in skill is backwards.
Getting too much into the equipment without having exhausted your practice in skill is backwards.
just put a little super glue around the tip and burnish it, i did this for over 10 years with elkmasters and they held up like mooris, and the bonus was it polished to a high shine. Works wonderfully no soaking or anything, works like a charm. Keeps the sides sturdy and still gets the intended english. Not to mention its fast and easy.
I know what already works good. I'm just interested in what might work better. I like to improve on things, If people didn't say to themselves "how can I make this better?" we would still be driving carberated cars, and watching black and white tube T.V.'s!!! I will try my resin pressed tip. It may suck, It may work good, I may feel no difference, but at least my curiosity will be cured for that and I can move on.
I totally agree with you. I am saying that when things start to get technical, it might not be worth it. I have experimented with tons of different tips to find what I like. I recommend that once you find what you like, you stay there, cause if you don't you might not be able to tell after that. Good on you for trying though.
I personally think more effort should be invested in technique, but that's JMHO.