Rest

[olsonsview]

An idea

Dave38, Bubsbug; maybe before pitching those $60 paper weights you should make a plastic collet for the part of the cue you want to support with those wheeled center rests. Now the wheels roll on the OD of the collet and not the cue? Do not slit the collets, just make them a snug fit on the cue and a convenient OD to fit your wheeled rest. Machinists have done something similar to that for years using a "CatHead" to hold onto a rough, or irregular piece then let the center rest rub on the smooth finished od of the cathead. But your cathead is just a simple collet cut to fit the exact point you want to support on the cue. You can even make collets out of wood and line them with felt, which now that I think about it I may do for all the sizes i use on finished cues? Now cat lovers, do not get into a hissing fit, no cats were destroyed to make this or any other tooling!

 

[WilleeCue]

What do you metal lathe guys think about the 60 center peice that Joe Barringer uses inside his spindals for dead nuttts accuracy?????

I question anthing that claims 'dead nuttts accuracy' and I also question ANYTHING Joe Barringer says.
IMHO, He tends to beat the drum much like a snake oil salesman.

 

[cutter]

I question anthing that claims 'dead nuttts accuracy' and I also question ANYTHING Joe Barringer says.
IMHO, He tends to beat the drum much like a snake oil salesman.

TAP, TAP, TAP

 

[Jack Flanagan]

I question anthing that claims 'dead nuttts accuracy' and I also question ANYTHING Joe Barringer says.
IMHO, He tends to beat the drum much like a snake oil salesman.

Ditto...what Willee said...........j

 

[RocketQ]

I question anthing that claims 'dead nuttts accuracy' and I also question ANYTHING Joe Barringer says.
IMHO, He tends to beat the drum much like a snake oil salesman.

I third that notion. I got stuck with an inlay machine from him. I think I am going to make it a billet cutter. It will work good for that..

 

[DaveK]

Clarification, What I was getting at was this: I am under the impression that metal lathe people use their steady rest out in front of head stock to work on short peices, handles, fronts, ect.

Joe made a long 60 degree center out of delrin that mounts to his outboard chuck, it then stops somewhere within his spindal, meaning inside it, Then his actually work gets center drilled and mounts to this and then another center peice into his tailstock. I was just wondering how people liked this idea!

This has to be a litle different as opposed to putting one in you main chuck and tailstock, doesn't ot???

While I'm not a cuemaker, the only reason one might want to do this is if his lathe were not long enough. Other than gaining some c-to-c inches, I cannot see a benefit. Also, centers are, for the most part, to be mounted in tapers, not chucks. By putting a center in a chuck you ruin the centricity tolerance by making the center subject to the runout of the chuck. So it's a "dead nutttttttts" as the chuck, which may or may not be close (depending on if you have a set-tru or something like I might have), but certainly not as accurate as a good center, no matter how excellent a chuck you have.

Now, if he uses a chucked center in the rear chuck, then holds the workpiece in the front chuck, these eccenticities are more apparent than if the work was held between head-and-tail centers, due to the much shorter distance between the holding points and the resulting geometry.

Nope, I don't see this as a good idea, except if you want to make a 36" lathe into a 42" lathe for a while ... on the other hand maybe I still don't understand what he's doing.

Dave, thinks that if Joe loves Grizzly lathes he's likely never heard of Hardinge

 

[pdcue]

While I'm not a cuemaker, the only reason one might want to do this is if his lathe were not long enough. Other than gaining some c-to-c inches, I cannot see a benefit. Also, centers are, for the most part, to be mounted in tapers, not chucks. By putting a center in a chuck you ruin the centricity tolerance by making the center subject to the runout of the chuck. So it's a "dead nutttttttts" as the chuck, which may or may not be close (depending on if you have a set-tru or something like I might have), but certainly not as accurate as a good center, no matter how excellent a chuck you have.

Now, if he uses a chucked center in the rear chuck, then holds the workpiece in the front chuck, these eccenticities are more apparent than if the work was held between head-and-tail centers, due to the much shorter distance between the holding points and the resulting geometry.

Nope, I don't see this as a good idea, except if you want to make a 36" lathe into a 42" lathe for a while ... on the other hand maybe I still don't understand what he's doing.

Dave, thinks that if Joe loves Grizzly lathes he's likely never heard of Hardinge

Dave & bug,

I'm guessing what bug is refering to is the tried and true enough
'bore center'

You slide it in from the back end of the spindle.
It is simply a piece of round stock turned to the id of your spindle,
with a 60 deg point on the front end. Shove it forward 'till it hits the back end of the SPINDLE taper. With a snug-enough fit, it will rotate with the
spindle, sorta a dead center inside the headstock.

Why? One might ask. Well, you can now support short pieces, like say a forearm, that don't stick out of the headstock, without having to
turn a straight section for the chuck to grab.

As far as dead-nuts goes... All this thing does is stablize the back end
of the workpiece. True enough, chucking up on a short, tapered
forearm, with the backend cartwheeling around is sure to cause
inaccuracies. But all a bore center does is allow you to maintain
the accuracy of your chuck.

Dale<been there, done that, bought the tee shirt>