I have a situation with making a 5/16-18 shaft that is such where tenoning the old ring work and insert may be My best option. I can use the old trim because the customer's old shaft is warped very badly, and they have no problem with Me cutting It out. Under most circumstances I usually make up new ring work, or bore the old ring work to fit on the new shaft and install a new insert, but in this situation there are few things that have Me considering using the old insert, facing, and trim rings by cutting a tenon behind the ringwork that is slightly larger then the insert, boring out the new shaft and sliding It on. The pin is not dead nuts, although close enough that It works with the old facing and insert, and I have the handle collar dialed in at under.001, so I should be able to cut a fairly true tenon.
I do have some concerns though,
When just doing a flat face behind the ring work, It strikes me similar to the practice of no collar shafts, They may hold up fine, but sometimes they split plain and simple, after all that is one of the main true purposes of a collar, to protect the end grain. I have personally shattered a cue that had no collars while breaking. This situation, obviously being somewhat different in that there is a lot of gluing surface to help hold It together, still yet I may be over thinking this, but found Myself compelled to add more security to the situation, By creating a small thin tenon or shoulder if you will, on the face of the bored out shaft piece, and then boring into the back facing under the ringwork,and up against the tenon. this would be a short shoulder reaching about half through the thickness of the first segmented piece in the ringwork, but would be intended to help lock the end grain of the new shaftwood in even better.
So I have this Idea in my head, only one problem, It would take a tiny boring bar, and I don't have anything that small. So I grab a a old dull carbide tool, and get to grinding. The end result was a tiny boring bar about 0.045 wide, raked down on 3 sides, and tapering down to about 0.040 back toward the tool post. It's pretty thin but very ridgid, and feels like It should work without breaking if I take very thin passes. I guess how thick of a shoulder I can get in there will depend on what diameter I cut the tenon that goes into the shaft.
Which brings up a question, wondering what Diameter others here with experience in this sort of thing would prefer. I think the insert is roughly 0.450, so I'm guessing more then 0.550, which could possibly throw a wrench into My other plans. I'm also curious as to how deep I should go into the new shaft with the tenon/how long to cut the tenon behind the ringwork? I don't want to end up in a give and take situation when It comes to structural integrity, so I'm open to any suggestions from others that have been down this road. like I mention I usually go one of the other ways when building shafts, so this is kind of new territory for Me.
I do have some concerns though,
When just doing a flat face behind the ring work, It strikes me similar to the practice of no collar shafts, They may hold up fine, but sometimes they split plain and simple, after all that is one of the main true purposes of a collar, to protect the end grain. I have personally shattered a cue that had no collars while breaking. This situation, obviously being somewhat different in that there is a lot of gluing surface to help hold It together, still yet I may be over thinking this, but found Myself compelled to add more security to the situation, By creating a small thin tenon or shoulder if you will, on the face of the bored out shaft piece, and then boring into the back facing under the ringwork,and up against the tenon. this would be a short shoulder reaching about half through the thickness of the first segmented piece in the ringwork, but would be intended to help lock the end grain of the new shaftwood in even better.
So I have this Idea in my head, only one problem, It would take a tiny boring bar, and I don't have anything that small. So I grab a a old dull carbide tool, and get to grinding. The end result was a tiny boring bar about 0.045 wide, raked down on 3 sides, and tapering down to about 0.040 back toward the tool post. It's pretty thin but very ridgid, and feels like It should work without breaking if I take very thin passes. I guess how thick of a shoulder I can get in there will depend on what diameter I cut the tenon that goes into the shaft.
Which brings up a question, wondering what Diameter others here with experience in this sort of thing would prefer. I think the insert is roughly 0.450, so I'm guessing more then 0.550, which could possibly throw a wrench into My other plans. I'm also curious as to how deep I should go into the new shaft with the tenon/how long to cut the tenon behind the ringwork? I don't want to end up in a give and take situation when It comes to structural integrity, so I'm open to any suggestions from others that have been down this road. like I mention I usually go one of the other ways when building shafts, so this is kind of new territory for Me.
