How can balls lean into each other when they are spherical? :S
You orient the numbers on the top, with a slight angle into an adjacent ball. After all, the pigment used in the numbers is heavier than the rest of the ball's makeup.
J/K.
Like you, I think "lean" is kind of a misnomer when we're talking about spheres, but I can't think of a better term. Rocked onto? Perched on the edge of, and the adjacent ball holding it up?
That's a difficult one.
-Sean
Lol
They're just forced together like with any racking mechanism that stays on the table when you break.
I believe this is the only way to get a frozen rack everytime. I've played against people who think its an unfair advantage to use a magic rack...but isn't a rack meant to be 100% frozen? I do think the position you rack from will change due to being able to make a wing ball 90% of the time with a frozen rack, a few inches forwards or backwards would do.
In the immortal words of Johnny Archer "Those balls were touching but they weren't frozen!"
On a new cloth with a new ball set the balls are “touching” at their equators… The weight of the balls, the flat surface and friction of the new cloth are generally all that is required to create a rack that has no gaps….
Now adding the spot to the above equation allows the One ball to be frozen to the rack behind it… This happens because almost always the one ball is tapped into place or if not after a few breaks the one has been forced down into the spot and has started to create a divot…
This where loading begins to come into play.. By positioning the rack properly the one ball is hanging on the edge of the divot and would roll down into the divot IF the rack was removed.. Granted that the weight of the One ball is not very great but it is enough to add a little energy into the rack..
Recall the physics of equal and opposite. The rack pushes back against the One as hard as the One pushes against the rack… This is why and how you can load the balls…
Now consider the entire rack… If you wanted to load ALL of the balls onto the 9ball it is fairly simple to do… You tap them all in place making sure the indentions you are making are slightly inside of the spots the balls will actually sit in… You DO NOT tap them straight down into the spot you want them to sit… This was done recently at a major tournament and it helped decide the outcome… If you hammer them, as was done, the ball will actually sit down in its divot and be even harder to get frozen….
The other issue with tapping the balls is that if you tap them to different depths you can create an issue with the physics of how the balls spread.. By hammering the ball behind the wing ball and lightly or not tapping the wing ball you can actually make the wing ball wired or close to wired even hitting them dead in the face from the break box… Trying to recall where I saw this =) oh yeah same tournament the TD hammered the back 3 balls deep into the cloth..
The other way to load an entire rack is to have a template that raises all of the balls around the 9 and is slightly tight on the ball placements while leaving the 9ball on the table surface.. If the template holds the balls from rolling off their perch on the 9ball you have effectively loaded the rack… This is the main reason that there is material under the money ball in “The Accu-Rack System” templates.. The center ball is not lower so you cannot load the entire rack so the balls will break like you are breaking on new professional cloth…
One thing that I don’t think has been addressed anywhere yet is the differences in sizes of balls and using them to alter the way the balls spread.. In some instances this can be as useful as Joe Tucker’s info on gaps…
IF I can find my camera I’ll try and do a few minutes moving the smallest ball around the 9ball rack and talking about what it does… I’ve already posted a wall of words on a loaded question =)
Good Racking,
Chris Renfro
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