Revo 11.8 or 12.4?

Revo 11.8 or 12.4?

  • Revo 11.8

    Votes: 21 55.3%
  • Revo 12.4

    Votes: 17 44.7%

  • Total voters
    38
Why? What does what plays well for me have to do with you.
Because no one close to me has either so I can't try them to make the decision for myself.

At least deflection differences and forgivness should be the same for everyone, taper may or may not be the same, and how it feels is of no interest to me (sound, stifness etc.).

If you can help, thank you.
 
Because no one close to me has either so I can't try them to make the decision for myself.

At least deflection differences and forgivness should be the same for everyone, taper may or may not be the same, and how it feels is of no interest to me (sound, stifness etc.).

If you can help, thank you.
Everyone's opinion regarding deflection differences may vary and quite a lot. For some those differences are obvious for the others not so much and that's no surprise because the skills vary a lot.
From what I've heard 11,8 is amazingly low deflection, the lowest out of those three Revo available...
The problem is if it differs a lot from what you're used to it might take quite some time to get used to.
If not this factor it is pretty easy choice...just choose tip diameter of your preference.
If I had to choose I would still go with tip diameter of my preference and if the deflection is too low for my game...well it is much easier to make it deflect some more than the other way around without losing the warranty. Simply adding additional pad of certain thickness and material = adding some mass and go from there when replacing the tip.
There's just no better way than chosing tip diameter you're used to and have your own experience and opinion. The worst thing possible if you see no way to make it work for you ...just to sell.
All said is valid only if you already had your experience with cf shafts and like its feel over the wood.
Good luck with your choice.
 
Everyone's opinion regarding deflection differences may vary and quite a lot. For some those differences are obvious for the others not so much and that's no surprise because the skills vary a lot.
From what I've heard 11,8 is amazingly low deflection, the lowest out of those three Revo available...
The problem is if it differs a lot from what you're used to it might take quite some time to get used to.
If not this factor it is pretty easy choice...just choose tip diameter of your preference.
If I had to choose I would still go with tip diameter of my preference and if the deflection is too low for my game...well it is much easier to make it deflect some more than the other way around without losing the warranty. Simply adding additional pad of certain thickness and material = adding some mass and go from there when replacing the tip.
There's just no better way than chosing tip diameter you're used to and have your own experience and opinion. The worst thing possible if you see no way to make it work for you ...just to sell.
All said is valid only if you already had your experience with cf shafts and like its feel over the wood.
Good luck with your choice.
I currently have the Revo 12.9, but it is too thick for me so I thought going thinner, but obviously can't decide to which one of the two Revos available :)
 
Can I ask for some more oppinions, reviews and votes, please :)

A big thanks to everyone who already wrote their review and cast their vote!!
 
If your really used to small shafts get the 11.8. If not get the 12.4. I just measured my new 12.4, and it measures 12.54 at the white vault plate. It weighs 114 grams (4.02oz). :)
 
I was used to playing with an OB 11.75 for 5+ years, so when I played with friends' Revo and carbon fiber Jacoby with ~12.4 diameters, they always felt too big for me. Now I play with a Pechauer carbon fiber 11.8, and it's perfect for me.

It may be true that you can get used to anything, but even when my first cue had a 13mm shaft, it felt big, and going to the 11.75 felt right to me immediately. So maybe there's just a natural "fit" that people have.

It does seem like players who use closed bridges also tend to like larger shaft diameters, and people who prefer open bridges also prefer narrower diameters, but that's just my observation and I don't know if there's any good reason why. Maybe it's because the thicker shaft is easier to close your bridge around. Or maybe it's just that the era (80s, 90s?) when everyone used closed bridges coincided with the dominance of 13mm shafts.

In theory the narrower shafts should have lower deflection. At least with wood shafts, all the low-deflection shafts like that OB got there in part with narrow shafts. I haven't seen any good tests of whether it's also true with carbon fiber.
 
i got a 11.8 in radial pin
just hit with it for an hour or so
it measures 11.95-11.99 mm at the white vault plate
weight 4.0 ounces
the tip is stock and its very high
i did not feel a major difference in size compared to the 12.4 i use now
also the conical taper did not bother me when using a closed bridge
it does seem alittle stiffer and seem less deflection
more spin?? maybe not sure
both are great shafts
hope this helps mirza
i am very far from pro level so i may not be sensitive to minor differences
my house pro plays with a 12.4
if i can get him to try it out i will let you know his thoughts
 
i got a 11.8 in radial pin
just hit with it for an hour or so
it measures 11.95-11.99 mm at the white vault plate
weight 4.0 ounces
the tip is stock and its very high
i did not feel a major difference in size compared to the 12.4 i use now
also the conical taper did not bother me when using a closed bridge
it does seem alittle stiffer and seem less deflection
more spin?? maybe not sure
both are great shafts
hope this helps mirza
i am very far from pro level so i may not be sensitive to minor differences
my house pro plays with a 12.4
if i can get him to try it out i will let you know his thoughts
This helps a lot, thank you my friend!!!
 
I'm really tempted to try the 11.8 black vault revo, if anyone got one uniloc for sale pm me, must be black vault though.
 
Hey Mirza,

12,4 and/or 11.8 are very similar if we talk about the "handling" ( for the bridgehand- taper feels very identical for closed bridges).
Deflection is of course different- but not as much as many think. Imo you will "see" and "feel" the difference as soon as you will use really high speed and maximum english (at the same time).

About forgiveness- well ( grin). But seriously Mirza. As soon as you re goin for a konical shaft, this "forgiveness" you re asking for is of course "there". But hey, it could teach you also to take a bit more care, hm= haha :-p

but you can do a lot in this direction by choosing a tip which has a lot of grip- that makes a big difference.

That s ofc just my opinion Mirza- but i can just recommend to get a shaft- no matter which one and test it for some weeks (really weeks)- and then listen to yourself if it feels good. That s it Mirza. And if not? hey, to resell a carbon revo shaft shouldn t take too long and go for another one.

and there s never anything sure, if you care too much on other ppl s recommendation ( material based). :-)

take care mate
 
Hey Mirza,

12,4 and/or 11.8 are very similar if we talk about the "handling" ( for the bridgehand- taper feels very identical for closed bridges).
Deflection is of course different- but not as much as many think. Imo you will "see" and "feel" the difference as soon as you will use really high speed and maximum english (at the same time).

About forgiveness- well ( grin). But seriously Mirza. As soon as you re goin for a konical shaft, this "forgiveness" you re asking for is of course "there". But hey, it could teach you also to take a bit more care, hm= haha :p

but you can do a lot in this direction by choosing a tip which has a lot of grip- that makes a big difference.

That s ofc just my opinion Mirza- but i can just recommend to get a shaft- no matter which one and test it for some weeks (really weeks)- and then listen to yourself if it feels good. That s it Mirza. And if not? hey, to resell a carbon revo shaft shouldn t take too long and go for another one.

and there s never anything sure, if you care too much on other ppl s recommendation ( material based). :)

take care mate
ratta
could you please explain the statement i bolded above alittle more ?
also could you give a few examples of tips you consider have more "grip"?
thanks
 
Question: Has anybody else noticed the difference in weight between the 12.4 and 11.8? The 11.8 is like 10 grams heavier, which means your timing has to be different between the two. I like everything about it, except the weight...
 
Question: Has anybody else noticed the difference in weight between the 12.4 and 11.8? The 11.8 is like 10 grams heavier, which means your timing has to be different between the two. I like everything about it, except the weight...

Wow, really?

I've been looking to buy a lighter Revo (and of course the 12.4 or 11.8), because one of other flaws (for me) with my 12.9 is its weight, its 4.2 oz, and I like my cues butt heavy, not forward (shaft) heavy. That could be a real negative for the 11.8, for me at least.

My cue and shaft are uniloc, and uniloc is heavier than radial.
 
ratta
could you please explain the statement i bolded above alittle more ?
also could you give a few examples of tips you consider have more "grip"?
thanks
Well,
on any shaft, which is extremley stiff- no matter if we talk about wooden or carbon shafts it helps for sure to have a tip which has a really good grip- and which furthermore keeps its elastic really good. From my expirience Zan and also G2 are superb in this direction.
As soon as you go for a softer tip ( and with good grip, too) the shaft will be more forgiving.

I used to play for a very long time with hard tips (Kamui), but that is long ago. On a Tiger X Pro shaft- which is really one of the most unforgiving shafts i ever saw ( quality is good- but without perfect technique a pain in the ass). On the Tiger X Pro shaft I switched to a much softer tip and it helped a ton.

On carbon shafts a student and myself also tested it out ( on a 11.8mm carbon shaft) and it s a big difference to have a crappy non gripping tip on it- or having a bit softer with grip.
I can recommend from my expirience Zan or G2.

hope that helps
 
Well,
on any shaft, which is extremley stiff- no matter if we talk about wooden or carbon shafts it helps for sure to have a tip which has a really good grip- and which furthermore keeps its elastic really good. From my expirience Zan and also G2 are superb in this direction.
As soon as you go for a softer tip ( and with good grip, too) the shaft will be more forgiving.

I used to play for a very long time with hard tips (Kamui), but that is long ago. On a Tiger X Pro shaft- which is really one of the most unforgiving shafts i ever saw ( quality is good- but without perfect technique a pain in the ass). On the Tiger X Pro shaft I switched to a much softer tip and it helped a ton.

On carbon shafts a student and myself also tested it out ( on a 11.8mm carbon shaft) and it s a big difference to have a crappy non gripping tip on it- or having a bit softer with grip.
I can recommend from my expirience Zan or G2.

hope that helps
thanks vey much ratta
i use g2 softs which i was planning to put on my 11.8 revo (they are on my 12.4)
now i know thats a good move and why.... (y)
 
I have both. I play with 11.8 due to the fact that I started playing pool with a Z2. 11.8 pivot point is 22", 12.4 pivot point as about 12-14".

Both shafts are the exact same shotgun with different chokes.
 
I have both. I play with 11.8 due to the fact that I started playing pool with a Z2. 11.8 pivot point is 22", 12.4 pivot point as about 12-14".

Both shafts are the exact same shotgun with different chokes.
Can pls clarify what is pivot point that you're speaking about? is it good to have longer pivot point with the 11.8 or is lesser pivot point better as in the case with 12.4? also do you mean the pivot where you put your cue in your bridge hand? that would be a pivot.

If you mean the place where the cue touches your bridge hand then do you mean with the 11.8 shaft you're bridge is much much longer than the 12.4, I mean if you have the bridge that long with the 11.8 in the case of 22", then I wonder how that looks on camera, must of be the longest bridge length ever? :P but then again my assumptions may be all wrong and I dont know what pivot point is.
 
Question: Has anybody else noticed the difference in weight between the 12.4 and 11.8? The 11.8 is like 10 grams heavier, which means your timing has to be different between the two. I like everything about it, except the weight...
I just looked and my 11.8 is 0.1oz heavier than my 12.4. Both 3/8x10 pins.
 
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