Rewrapping a Schon (and what not to do)

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PlynSets

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
So I'm a moron.. I've got an old Schon that I've been playing with for years.. I won it in a set against a guy who before me had been playing with it for years as well. LOL To say this cue has alot of hours on it is an understatement. Well the wrap was pretty dirty from all these hours, and I decide in my infinite wisdom that I'll clean it. Now I'm not a huge fan of getting my cue "wet" but I figure the but was probably clearcoated before the wrap was put on so I'm pretty safe with regards to that. I start off by taking a damp (not soaking, but damp) wash cloth and kind of twisting it on the wrap. Lots of stuff coming up, but that's not good enough. So I send the g/f downstairs for some simple green and laundry detergent in a cup fill the cup up the rest of the way with some luke warm water and get out a new tooth brush.. Start gently scrubbing the wrap, and decide that this probably isn't such a good idea, and maybe this should be professionally done by somebody or rewrapped who knows..

Well the next day the wrap is certainly cleaner.. LOL But now it's got a "gritty" texture to it, and it's kind of "fuzzy" for lack of a better term again. I really don't like playing with it like this..

I'm in San Diego (north county) anyone local that can competently re-wrap a schon? Question # 2, if not in S.D. should I just ship it to someone or back to schon?

Thanks in advance..

(BTW, how is it you guys clean the wraps on your cues? becuase this obviously wasn't the right way)

DJ
 
I know what you are going through.

The best way to do it IMO is what you did, for the most part.

I prefer a mild detergent. What's a mild detergent you may ask? Baby shampoo is a good one. Anything that rinses easily.

I take a very small amount of baby shampoo on a damp rag and wipe the smoke/chalk/sweat/grease/wing sauce etc. off, then get another damp rag and wipe it again with clean water.

After that, sometimes there are "pills" or pulled up cloth. I get a lint ball shaver to remove them.

As said, it does feel coarse after it's cleaned, but that goes away after a short while.
 
Gregg said:
I know what you are going through.

The best way to do it IMO is what you did, for the most part.

I prefer a mild detergent. What's a mild detergent you may ask? Baby shampoo is a good one. Anything that rinses easily.

I take a very small amount of baby shampoo on a damp rag and wipe the smoke/chalk/sweat/grease/wing sauce etc. off, then get another damp rag and wipe it again with clean water.

After that, sometimes there are "pills" or pulled up cloth. I get a lint ball shaver to remove them.

As said, it does feel coarse after it's cleaned, but that goes away after a short while.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the insight.

At the end of the day I think I screwed this thing up beyond lint ball remover.. LOL I'm going to send it back to Schon and just let them rewrap it as well as touch up some lacker on the joint collars on the shafts.

DJ
 
Fix or Re-do?

What you have inadvertantly done is broken some of the fibrous strands in the linen (not the string itself- just some fibers). The reason they are grainy- is that you have also softened some of the soaked-in (water based) glue that is used to hold the wrap on and seal it somewhat. So, the glue-soaked strands are now dry and hardened.

This is NOT a ruined wrap. You haven't broken any complete strings- so it's not going to suddenly start unraveling. You "may" have weakened the glue-to-wood bond, but just how much may take awhile to show up.

To Repair: Easiest thing is to send it to any local cue-mechanic. But, if you wish to play around with it yourself- there are several options.
1) Tape the forearm and buttsleeve so you cannot damage them. I prefer electrical tape- since it holds up well to water and some abuse. and- it doesn't leave as much glue residue. DO NOT use masking tape UNLESS you can find a professional auto-body tape that is used for masking cars for paint.Most household or dollar-store masking tape is junk.
2) Take some 1200-2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper and dry-sand the "burrs" off the wrap. You may also use a GREY "Scotchbrite" pad (available at auto-body and paint supply stores). DO NOT use the green household pad, or the red Automotive type. This will take no time at all. DO NOT use any water/liquid- as that will just repeat the problem as it dries. Sand until the wrap feels velvety-smooth. Don't worry about sanding too much- it would take hours of sanding in one spot to damage the wrap.
3) Spray a household furniture polish (like Pledge) on the wrap- and rub very vigorously with a cotton washcloth. Try to create some heat from friction.
This accomplishes (2) things- It dries the wrap, and burnishes the raised fibers.

Rewrap: If you are unhappy with the wrap in any way- it isn't too difficult or expensive to replace. The going rate for rewraps at the expo was $40-$50 for your standard color selections.
I'm sure you will get suggestions for local cue-mechanics.

Ray
 
PlynSets said:
THANKS!!! I'm going to give it a shot right now!

DJ
Click to expand...

Another idea is to go to the local fabric store and buy one of those little disks of beeswax that are used for waxing thread. Open the container and take out the beeswax and rub it all over the wrap, then take a soft cloth and burnish it. It will be a bit tacky after this, which you may like or dislike. If you dislike it, just rub it again with an old cotton t-shirt until most of the excess beeswax comes off. In any case, after playing with it for a while the wax will slowly wear off, but the wrap will still be good.

Flex
 
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