Anybody try them . And if so much difference than the regular rhino shaft
Rhino MUST
- Thread starter chuckpilegis
- Start date
bet they just a little different
not alot
not alot
After going the route of cheap CF shaft to start with and then getting some mid-priced shaft to end up with an expansive shaft, It would have just been a cheaper route to just go ahead and get the top brands more expansive shafts.
I have 2 Rhinos, one never been used... never again. I have a Cynergy that plays nice but the ferrule is soft and won't last long, unless you have someone in the area to fix it, pass on that as well. The SMO is nice but only comes in radial joint, pass if you need it for a different joint. That pretty much leave us with T60 and Revo. I've tried Mezz Ignite 12.2mm, it defelects more than the SMO, costs more and hard to get, was not that impressed.
I have 2 Rhinos, one never been used... never again. I have a Cynergy that plays nice but the ferrule is soft and won't last long, unless you have someone in the area to fix it, pass on that as well. The SMO is nice but only comes in radial joint, pass if you need it for a different joint. That pretty much leave us with T60 and Revo. I've tried Mezz Ignite 12.2mm, it defelects more than the SMO, costs more and hard to get, was not that impressed.
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So which one do you prefer
The Revo 12.9mm
I was used to the 12.75 314 shafts even though some of them are down to around 12.5mm from cleaning and sanding over the years so I started with 12.5mm CF shafts as I was sure that it would feel closer to what I was used to, but the 12.9 feel much better in my hand (maybe using a glove now also has something to do with it). it also more powerful and has the less amount of cue ball deflection.
I've tried a Revo 12.4 which I always thought would be too thin for my liking but the taper is nicer in my opinion and makes the shaft feels thicker (similar to my InFuze Kielwood at 12.5 that feels thicker), So if the 12.9 wasn't feeling so good for me, I would probably get the Revo 12.4
I run a few tests
1. put a CB on the kitchen line frozen to the rail and shoot with side spin parallel to the rail and try to pocket the ball in the corner. see which shaft can still pocket the ball with higher speed.
2. place and OB on the center diamond on the short rail frozen, place the CB on the center of the kitchen line. shoot with side spin parallel to the line of shot, see which shaft hits the OB closer to the center and cuts it less, try at different speed, the higher the speed, the more deflection.
3. place an OB about a foot from a corner pocket, place the CB about 2 feet away in a straight in shot. shoot it with side spin keeping the shaft parallel to the line of shot and hit it with different speeds. the higher the speed the more the OB will go in to the side of the pocket, untill it'll miss (the Rhino, Ignite and 314 missed a 4.5 inch pocket at high speed while the Revo and SMO still made)
4. see attached shot, shoot it with bottom right spin, and see if you can make it with a parallel cue to the line of the shot with different speeds until you miss
I contacted Rhino earlier this week when they 1st sent the email introducing the "must' shaft.
Heres the questions & replies...
Heres the questions & replies...
You don't have to do them all, but all are good to test deflection.
The standard test needs a more scientific tools to see the results, it's very hard to see while shooting exactly which deviates more from the center and by how much. That's why I added the OB on the rail, because you can see it's path after the hit and know for sure which had more deflection.
The standard test also use gadgets to swing the cue at a more accurate consistency but they all swing way harder than any player ever shoot and the results are often not that true to reality.
Actually, the third test is the most realistic as you actually shoot a ball into a pocket, which is something you do in a real game, and you shoot it with speeds that you will use in real life. You can add balls to the sides of the pockets to reduce it size in order to emphasize the results.
This is the only test that I actually used to test all the following shafts and here are the ratings from my test:
1. Revo 12.9
2. Revo 12.4 / SMO 12.5 (if there is a difference like shown on a JFlowers video, it's neglectable in real life)
3. Cynergy 12.5
4. Mezz Ignite 12.2
5. Predator 314-2
6. Rhino 12.5
7. InFuze Kielwood 12.5
The differences between the Cynergy, Mezz, 314 and Rhino are quite small and neglectable and I don't see a need to play differently when using either one.
I also have the original OB shaft, but I haven't used it since it came out, I remember that in terms of deflection it was similar to the 314 just more whippy which I didn't like that much.
And still, I don't care how better this new Rhino Must shaft is, it's still a Rhino with all their issues.
By advertising it as better and lower deflection than the original, they admit that the original is not up to par with the top brands like some think... unless it's just a marketing hype, in which case, save your money
Flakeandrun
Well-known member
It's always marketing hype, every single brand.
I’ve had a Cynergy for 3 years and never had any issues with the ferrule. And I’ve not seen any issues with friends who have them.
The SMO appears to come in Uniloc Quick Release and 3/8-10 as well (according to their website).
As it happens I have switched to the Whyte Carbon - just like the feel more.
I was thinking the same thing. Ours is the lowest deflection. Ok so we just take their word for that with nothing to back it up?
There’s one born every minute.
there are lots of reports about cracking ferrules and many videos that show replacing them.
I have a Cyenergy that is only lightly played and it has a scratch on the ferrule that I have no idea how it happened, I take good and careful care of my equipment, I store it in a good case, I don't bang it around and I never dropped it and it's still with the original tip so it couldn't have happened while working on the shaft, so it could have only happened from normal use.
Exactly my experience. Mine got scratched one way or another and then started collecting chalk and dirt.
I have mentioned I switched to tomahawk but there are other answers.
My buddy is a big guy and he has cracked a tomahawk ferrule. I believe he switched to aegis.
As far as CF preference, it's hard to say. I've hit with many and what I like best was the Rogue, Cynergy, and some no-name shaft a kid had at the local room. It played just like my Cynergy. Early on I switched back and forth between the Revo and Cynergy and after every switch I was convinced the one in my hand played better than the one in the case. The stroke plays a role too. When I am hitting them well with a nice smooth stroke, the Cynergy appears to have ZERO deflection. When I am quick or don't stay down over the shot etc., it deflects almost as mush as a maple shaft.
You cannot guess which is right for you unless you hit with them and maybe not even then. ymmv
hclopez13
Member
To me it seems the main difference between the original Rhino and the Must, at least by the picture they are advertising with, is the core of the shaft itself. I would be willing to bet the original is completely hollow, if not filled with a very light foam for sound dampening purposes; at least it feels that way on my Rhino Eclipse 2 that came with the standard Rhino CF shaft. From the picture they have on their website, it seems the Must is a standard uni directional carbon fiber tube, like most economy shafts, with a core made out of plain weave carbon fiber and other materials, it looks like some sort of dowel of unknown material. My guess is that why they say the shaft will be more forward balanced and that it is a "ultra low" deflection shaft; more material inside would make it stiffer and balanced in weight.
I am pleased with the performance of my Rhino Eclipse 2. Good looking cue, seems well made, all composite and I am pleased of how it plays. I would say the shaft has around 20% less deflection than my favorite Predator Z2 shaft. I tried some cue ball position drills that require substantial english and stroke force, and it seemed easier with the Rhino shaft. I think their products offer a good bang for the buck. I am not saying that it is the best carbon fiber shaft in the market, I am saying that when you weigh price versus performance, the original Rhino shaft is great for the price, especially if one is on a budget. I am not expecting it to be on par with a Meucci Hi-Pro 1 with a 30" 11.80 Meucci Carbon Pro shaft that I have on order, but still a good value for the money.
I would be interested to see the initial impressions of folks who go ahead and purchase a Rhino Must. They are not terribly priced and if the performance is close to a more expensive shaft, then Rhino has a winner, especially for players on a budget.
I am pleased with the performance of my Rhino Eclipse 2. Good looking cue, seems well made, all composite and I am pleased of how it plays. I would say the shaft has around 20% less deflection than my favorite Predator Z2 shaft. I tried some cue ball position drills that require substantial english and stroke force, and it seemed easier with the Rhino shaft. I think their products offer a good bang for the buck. I am not saying that it is the best carbon fiber shaft in the market, I am saying that when you weigh price versus performance, the original Rhino shaft is great for the price, especially if one is on a budget. I am not expecting it to be on par with a Meucci Hi-Pro 1 with a 30" 11.80 Meucci Carbon Pro shaft that I have on order, but still a good value for the money.
I would be interested to see the initial impressions of folks who go ahead and purchase a Rhino Must. They are not terribly priced and if the performance is close to a more expensive shaft, then Rhino has a winner, especially for players on a budget.
hclopez13
Member
Sir.
I do not appreciate the WTF. I am a grown man that respects everybody here, including you. So, lets be civil about how we address each other.
Did you miss the part where I wrote "if not filled with some sort of light foam for sound dampening purposes"? To me it feels hollow. It might be, it might not. I have certainly not sawed my shaft in half to find out, and my guess is that you have neither. So in reality we are both guessing.
And yes, I am making guesses because there is not much information available. Now the picture I attached below shows what seems to be a plain weave carbon fiber core structure along other materials. Is that the actual internal construction? My guess it as good as yours. Make of it as you will, as you are obviously very passionate about arguing about assumptions.
You made your guess, I made mine, all based on limited information.
I hope you have a great day and a happy Thanksgiving.
Eddie
Attachments
hclopez13
Member
Since garczar deleted his responses, I guess I can paste it from my email notifications and reply as well.
"garczar said:
As i said before no cf shafts are hollow. all are filled with some thing.btw, i use 'WTF' ALL the time. don't get ur panties in a wad. Don't like the way i respond please feel free to put me on Ignore."
Well, for one I do not wear panties; I prefer to go commando on a regular basis. Asking you not to use that expression with me is not getting my "panties" in a wad, it is asking for basic respect, as I intend to give it to you and everybody else here. You might be used to address other members here like that, and they might be fine with it, and I politely asked you to please not address me like that. I do not believe it was an unfair request. I was not going to use the ignore feature as I enjoy the conversations here, even if they are to respectfully disagree.
Now, you deleted both of your responses to me and also put me on ignore. In the end, who got his panties in a wad?
Again, have a great day and happy Thanksgiving.
Eddie.
"garczar said:
As i said before no cf shafts are hollow. all are filled with some thing.btw, i use 'WTF' ALL the time. don't get ur panties in a wad. Don't like the way i respond please feel free to put me on Ignore."
Well, for one I do not wear panties; I prefer to go commando on a regular basis. Asking you not to use that expression with me is not getting my "panties" in a wad, it is asking for basic respect, as I intend to give it to you and everybody else here. You might be used to address other members here like that, and they might be fine with it, and I politely asked you to please not address me like that. I do not believe it was an unfair request. I was not going to use the ignore feature as I enjoy the conversations here, even if they are to respectfully disagree.
Now, you deleted both of your responses to me and also put me on ignore. In the end, who got his panties in a wad?
Again, have a great day and happy Thanksgiving.
Eddie.
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