room requirements for a 4'x8' table.

A good standard for the minimum is adding 10 feet to the length and width. You do this because the cueball frozen on the rail shooting 90 degrees from the rail will require no less then 5 feet for a standard length level cue to have any backstroke at all.

Your room would be a giant PITA when it comes to shots off the long rails that are aimed 90 degrees to the rail, which happens alot more then you might imagine.

A 7 would barely work to be reasonable (you would REALLY want a 13.5 wide room for a 7 foot table), a 8-foot would be very tight and there would be alot of times the walls will get in the way of your cueing.
 
cueboy007 said:
I have an empty room that's about 13' by 20'.

According to Brunswick(http://www.brunswickbilliards.com/helpful_information/room_size_requirements.html), for a 8' table I need 13'6'', my question is how much inconvenience are those 6'' are going to bring?

Should I deal with it or just order a 7' table?
Click to expand...

Unless you want to jack up or use a short stick on shots right on the rail the 7ft would be better off. 13 is still kinda tight on a 7ft but it's doable. The inside playing surface of a 7ft table is 39 inches and a cue is 58-60 inches so you want 13'6 to 13'9 to be comfortable/ not jacking up or using a shorty, as you have to take the length of your stroke into consideration as well. At 13 you'll probably have to jack up slightly on shots frozen on the rail.
 
Below is Brunswick's room requirements.
Isn't 13' perfect for 7' table?

====================
even foot table: 3.5' x 7'
(Playing area: 38" x 76")
C - 13' x 16'

Eight foot table: 4' x 8'
(Playing area: 44" x 88")
C - 13' 6" x 17'
====================
I was thinking to give up one side of table, at least there will be enough for
three sides, so I can practice.

I'm going to put it next to the door, which is 3', so really I'm only giving up on 5' on one side.

I talked to a table sales guy, he said 13' was good enough for 4'x8', I really question his knowledge. I don't want to wake up not having enough room after I pay up.

Need to do more research on this...
 
Cueboy, I am a table mechanic, been working on tables for 18 yrs. The info I gave you is correct. If you do the math, 39 in playing surface+ 57 in cue+ 57 in cue= 12 ft 9 inches. Unless you have no back stroke you will not be able to stroke regularly. Average stroke is about 6 inches. Add that to both sides and you have 13'9 needed to be able to bridge regularly and not elevate the back of your cue on ANY shot. It can be done and you will probably only have trouble on shots frozen/ close to the rail. I've put tables in 10x15 rooms, its all about whether you think it's worth it. An 8 ft table centered would absolutely require elevating the back of the cue for shots on the rail. If you go 57" from one side you would have 60" on the other side so that's an option. I have a 7ft table and I started out with it at 57" from one wall but have had to move it out to 63" to be able to play comfortably. Also take into consideration that most cues now are 58" and that makes it 2" tighter. Inches might not seem like alot but it really affects your shot when half way through your back stroke your cue hits the wall.
 
Thank you Lucasbilliards, what you are explaining makes total sense.

Now I have to think if I want to give up on one side, play with a shorter cue, so I can still practice on a 4'x8'. But it's frustrating not being able to play on the whole table.

I don't see myself moving in the next 5 years, so it's a decision that I have to make...
 
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