Room size HELP!

kennyratt

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Question for all AZ'ers; I have an existing room, dimensions are 14'2" x 27'. And the size can not be changed. I'm going to put a 41/2 x 9 table in it.How much trouble am I going to get in on the side rail shots? Am I going to be really disappointed or angry? All replys GREATLY appreciated!! Extremely concerned.Thanks in advance, Kennyratt
 
You are going to be about 2 or 3 inches short on the sides. The only shots that will really be a problem is if the cue ball is frozen or very close to the side rail, and you have to shoot straight across the table. You can pick up a 52 inch cue to use on those occasional shots where you just can't get a stroke with a full size cue. You may have one shot every two or three games where it is an issue.
Steve
 
Take 2 normal size pool cues and lay them on the floor with the butt of the cues agains the side walls with them pointing straight into the center of the room, perpendicular to the side walls. Now take a measuring tape and pull it out 4 1/2feet and set it between the two tips of the cues. This will give you and idea for how much room you will have on side rail shots.
 
Not too bad...

kennyratt said:
Question for all AZ'ers; I have an existing room, dimensions are 14'2" x 27'. And the size can not be changed. I'm going to put a 41/2 x 9 table in it.How much trouble am I going to get in on the side rail shots? Am I going to be really disappointed or angry? All replys GREATLY appreciated!! Extremely concerned.Thanks in advance, Kennyratt


You need 13'8" by 17'10" for a 4 1/2 by 9 table. You will be fine. That is with 57" house cues so if your custom cue is a couple inches longer you shouldnt have any problems as long as you don't have any tall furniture near the table. Good luck on your room!
 
kennyratt said:
Question for all AZ'ers; I have an existing room, dimensions are 14'2" x 27'. And the size can not be changed. I'm going to put a 41/2 x 9 table in it.How much trouble am I going to get in on the side rail shots? Am I going to be really disappointed or angry? All replys GREATLY appreciated!! Extremely concerned.Thanks in advance, Kennyratt
Here is the section on room size from the RSB FAQ. Please note that people who sell tables sometimes think you'll be happy with a 9-foot table in a 12-foot room and publish corresponding room-size tables.

11. ** How much room do I need for a table?

The minimum space for a table is the playing area plus the length of a
cue (58") plus about 6 inches for the back swing, more for comfort, on
each side. This gives the table:

table --- playing area --- room size --- in meters
8' ---- 44" x 88" --- 14'4" x 18' --- 4.37m x 5.49m
8+' ---- 46" x 92" ---14'6" x 18'4" --- 4.42m x 5.59m
9' ---- 50" x 100" --- 14'10" x19' --- 4.5m x 5.8m
12' (snooker) 70" x 140.5" 16'6" x 22'5" 5.0m x 6.8m

"Seven foot" tables vary in size. Work down from the 8' dimensions.
"8+" is an "oversized" 8-foot table.

If your room does not meet these minimum size requirements, many
billiard retailers will suggest that you can still put a table in, and
use short cues (52", or 48"). Many people have found they are unhappy
having to resort to shorter cues, and should have either gotten a
smaller table, or no table at all. Others, of course, take the
opposite view -- they are delighted to have any table.

In the end, only you will know whether you are happy with the room
dimensions and need for short cues. Before you spend $2000 for a table
that will cause you to smash the walls in frustration, try this:
(1) Find an indulgent pool hall when it's not busy. (2) Measure your
space (at home) carefully, including the distance from the table to all
walls that require a special cue (3) Go to the pool hall with a piece
or pieces of plywood or some such, and a short cue, and set up the
"walls" to replicate where the walls would be in your house. Play for
several hours, using the short cue when needed.

Between two tables you can do with about the length of a cue, the limit
is caused not by the cue, but by the player being able to go into his
stance between the tables. Deluxe rooms really need more room on all
sides to let possible passers-by move without bumping into the players.

12. ** Can I build my own table and cue?
 
cueandcushion said:
You need 13'8" by 17'10" for a 4 1/2 by 9 table. You will be fine. That is with 57" house cues so if your custom cue is a couple inches longer you shouldnt have any problems as long as you don't have any tall furniture near the table. Good luck on your room!

I agree with cueandcushion, 13'8" by 17'10" with a 57" cue. These are the minimum room dimensions.
 
Bob Jewett has the right answer to your question. If I was you I'd get a pro-8 table and call it a day.
 
Prolecat,
Your measurements would only leave enough for a 1 inch backstroke if you were shooting straight off the rail.
Steve
 
badabing said:
I agree with cueandcushion, 13'8" by 17'10" with a 57" cue. These are the minimum room dimensions.


this is a common mistake when people are confronted with room size. If you do not want any problems, then go with 14'6 x 19 recommendation. You have to allow for stroke room, not just being able to put the stick down on a rail shot
 
IF you're a banger, you'll be happy. If you're a player, you wont be happy.
 
NineBallNut said:
this is a common mistake when people are confronted with room size. If you do not want any problems, then go with 14'6 x 19 recommendation. You have to allow for stroke room, not just being able to put the stick down on a rail shot

Yep. I agree, stroke room is required; so I like 14.5 feet...

Laying the sticks on the floor is an OK idea, and great to visualize what you have, but you need to move them into the room a few inches to allow for back stroke. Looks to me like you are about 4" short here, which is 2 inches on a side...

Your room is 14'2" x 27' - so you've got plenty of room the long way, and are 4" short the short way. Big deal. IMO, stay with the 9' table, and get a couple of shorter cues (52") for when you're stuck on the rail. Keep things like pictures and cue racks off the side walls at rail height anyway, and all the furniture, etc. at one end of the long dimension.

To me settling for a shorter table is ...settling, but I'm not a bar box player at all - you might feel differently.
 
The key measurment is 5 feet from the cushion.

just round your table off to 5 x 10 and add 5 feet.

you need a 15 x 20 room....for shots off the rail.

Looks like your short about the length of my.........Oh never mind...:rolleyes:


Play position for the center of the table like your supposed too and you will be fine....;)
 
room size

thanks to all who replied. I'll try not to worry too much. but I won"t know until all is set up and done. Thanks, again; regards, Kennyratt
 
Scottster said:
IF you're a banger, you'll be happy. If you're a player, you wont be happy.
This is a very true statement. My room is 22'X22'. After my wife got through adding her crap, it's full. I'd put my foot down on the short cue. I REFUSE to use one. The closest any object is to my table is 6' from the inside rail.
 
pawnmon said:
Bob Jewett has the right answer to your question. If I was you I'd get a pro-8 table and call it a day.
I agree. Much better than to keep interrupting your stroke to accommodate a wall. 8' is a nice size.

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BRKNRUN said:
The key measurment is 5 feet from the cushion.

just round your table off to 5 x 10 and add 5 feet.

you need a 15 x 20 room....for shots off the rail.
QUOTE]
I agree with BRKNRUN... I always look for a 15X20 room (I have moved a couple of times...lol).

You can do with slightly less, but not much if you want to be comfortable.

IMO, With your dimensions, I would put in an 8 foot table.
 
kennyratt said:
Question for all AZ'ers; I have an existing room, dimensions are 14'2" x 27'. And the size can not be changed. I'm going to put a 41/2 x 9 table in it.How much trouble am I going to get in on the side rail shots? Am I going to be really disappointed or angry? All replys GREATLY appreciated!! Extremely concerned.Thanks in advance, Kennyratt

You are getting good advice here. The playing surface on a 9' table is 50" x 100". So, 4 foot 2 inches across. That leave 5' on each side to play, and a normal cue is 58" or 4 foot 10 inches. So if you are shooting straight toward the center of the table with the cue ball on the rail, you will have two inches to stroke, unless you elevate the butt of your cue slightly (you gain distance this way). With a 57" cue, you have three inches to stroke, which surprisingly makes a big difference on such a shot.

That is tight, but believe it or not you can play okay, with one big IF.
IF there are no obstructions along either side wall. That is, no chairs, shelves, cue racks or anything that abut from the wall. You actually can put a shelf there, but make it either very low (30" or less) or very high (over 48").

If you intend to put furniture (bar stools, chairs etc.) along the side walls, you will be very uncomfortable playing here. If you keep the side walls bare, except for pictures, posters and other decor, you will actually be all right with the 9' table.

Now with an oversized 8' table, your playing surface reduces to 46" across. The extra 4" makes a big difference, as long as you do not put furniture along the side walls. You can take a full stroke on any shot, and your stance won't be cramped either.

I understand your desire to have a 9' table. When I bought the house I'm in, I measured the family room and it was 15' 10" across and 19' long. I knew I was in business, as long as I didn't put large furniture at the ends of the table, and only bar stools on the sides. It has worked out fine.

Remember one thing. Luther Lassiter when asked how he prepared for a tournament responded, "I practice some on an 8' table. That's how I get my cue ball". He meant that's how he got his cue ball control in gear. So, if you are planning to get ready for the U.S. Open, maybe you might want an eight footer. lol
 
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