Room Size Question: What's Your Breaking Point?

iacas

iacas

Drill Sergeant
Silver Member
In a week, the process of building out the bonus room above my garage will commence. The room will be 22, maybe 23 feet long and 18 or 19 feet across.

I have a 9' table coming.

18' is the minimum space needed for the playing surface + two 58" cues... with no room to move the stick. 19' gives you six inches, of course.

At what point would you turn the table on its side to run the long way down the room? I'm hesitant to do that because... I want to use the rest of the room for a couch, a little poker table, whatever.

The final size has yet to be determined (it depends on a few measurements, but it's down to the inches, I can tell you that)... but we'll know when the drywall goes up, of course.

At what width would you turn the table around? Or would you just buy a single shorter cue for the few times it's needed? If (for the sake of the argument) the room was 18' only: on how many shots would the shorter cue be needed?

Some added info: the room has 5' kneewalls on the side, before it slants up to a flat ceiling at 8'. None of my friends are over 6' tall, so I don't think the slant will be a problem. There are some diagrams here, but that assumes a 20' x 22' room.
 
playing surface is 50inches x 100inches for a 9 foot table.

Rails are typically 6 inches

50+6+6 plus two 58inch cues (both sides- with 6inch rail stroke) = 178 inches devided by 12 = 14.8 feet (still less than the 20+feet you have for your room)

100+6+6 plus two 58inch cues (both sides- with 6inch rail stroke) = 228 inches devided by 12 = 19 feet (still less than the 20+ feet you have for your room)

Helpful link provided:
http://www.pooltableplans.com/Room%20Size.htm
 
I just had a used Gold Crown put in just such a space. Ideally you want a little more than 14-6 x 19 For one thing, the slate width seems to be more like 4'-8" (instead of the 4-6 I always thought), plus the rails themselves are fairly wide. Also, when the cue ball lands up against the cushion your bridge hand is actually dangling off the back of the rail. To get a full back swing I think you need an extra couple of inches -- like 19-4 long by 15-2 wide. Otherwise you either have to truncate your swing or use a shorter cue.
 
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Tom In Cincy said:
playing surface is 50inches x 100inches for a 9 foot table.

Rails are typically 6 inches

50+6+6 plus two 58inch cues (both sides- with 6inch rail stroke) = 178 inches devided by 12 = 14.8 feet (still less than the 20+feet you have for your room)

100+6+6 plus two 58inch cues (both sides- with 6inch rail stroke) = 228 inches devided by 12 = 19 feet (still less than the 20+ feet you have for your room)

Helpful link provided:
http://www.pooltableplans.com/Room%20Size.htm
Click to expand...
Did you bother to read what I wrote or did you just give a standard old reply? I don't mean any offense here, but you didn't offer anything I didn't already say... I know what the room size charts say (and I know the Olhausen chart, for example, only says 18' when that would leave you no room to actually move the stick).

1pocket said:
I just had a Gold Crown put in just such a space. Ideally you want a little more than 14-6 x 19 For one thing, the slate width seems to be more like 4'-8" (instead of the 4-6 I always thought), plus the rails themselves are fairly wide. Also, when the cue ball lands up against the cushion your bridge hand is actually dangling off the back of the rail. To get a full back swing I think you need an extra couple of inches -- like 19-4 long by 15-2 wide. Otherwise you either have to truncate your swing or use a shorter cue.
Click to expand...
So, getting back to my question: at what point would you flip the table in the room, losing all the "edge space" (for a card table, couch, etc.) over just keeping a shorter cue stick on hand for the few times the cue ball sits along the head or foot rail and you must play a shot roughly perpendicular to it...
 
Tom,

I don't think I would include the rails. Cushion-nose to cushion-nose is the important measurement.

If that is 100 inches I would add (58 + 6) x 2

100 + 128 = 228 (19')

I would consider 19' to be the bare minimum
 
iacas said:
In a week, the process of building out the bonus room above my garage will commence. The room will be 22, maybe 23 feet long and 18 or 19 feet across.

I have a 9' table coming.

18' is the minimum space needed for the playing surface + two 58" cues... with no room to move the stick. 19' gives you six inches, of course.

At what point would you turn the table on its side to run the long way down the room? I'm hesitant to do that because... I want to use the rest of the room for a couch, a little poker table, whatever.

The final size has yet to be determined (it depends on a few measurements, but it's down to the inches, I can tell you that)... but we'll know when the drywall goes up, of course.

At what width would you turn the table around? Or would you just buy a single shorter cue for the few times it's needed? If (for the sake of the argument) the room was 18' only: on how many shots would the shorter cue be needed?

Some added info: the room has 5' kneewalls on the side, before it slants up to a flat ceiling at 8'. None of my friends are over 6' tall, so I don't think the slant will be a problem. There are some diagrams here, but that assumes a 20' x 22' room.
Click to expand...

DON'T GO BY THE DIAGRAMS YOU FIND ON THE MANUFACTURERS SITES. THEY DON'T ALLOW FOR BACKSTROKE AT ALL. Allow yourself at least 10" of travel for backstroke. Sounds like you better count on placing the table longways in that room. I laid out my room for a pro 8 using the dimensions I found on the Brunswick site and the Ohlhausen site. Both were incorrect and I now have a table that is too big for the room. I'm reminded of this every time I play and it really p***es me off to no end.
 
iacas said:
..If (for the sake of the argument) the room was 18' only: on how many shots would the shorter cue be needed?
Click to expand...

Just guessing (from experience) I would say about 2% or 3%. Actually you would have twice as many problem shots if the cramped space was on the long rail. That's the problem I have in my basement.
 
pawnmon said:
... Allow yourself at least 10" of travel for backstroke. Sounds like you better count on placing the table longways in that room. ....
Click to expand...

I agree. Or get used to using a 48" cue for many of your shots. Personally I would sacrifice the card table and what-not for better playing conditions.
 
iacas said:
In a week, the process of building out the bonus room above my garage will commence. The room will be 22, maybe 23 feet long and 18 or 19 feet across.

I have a 9' table coming.

18' is the minimum space needed for the playing surface + two 58" cues... with no room to move the stick. 19' gives you six inches, of course.

At what point would you turn the table on its side to run the long way down the room? I'm hesitant to do that because... I want to use the rest of the room for a couch, a little poker table, whatever.

The final size has yet to be determined (it depends on a few measurements, but it's down to the inches, I can tell you that)... but we'll know when the drywall goes up, of course.

At what width would you turn the table around? Or would you just buy a single shorter cue for the few times it's needed? If (for the sake of the argument) the room was 18' only: on how many shots would the shorter cue be needed?

Some added info: the room has 5' kneewalls on the side, before it slants up to a flat ceiling at 8'. None of my friends are over 6' tall, so I don't think the slant will be a problem. There are some diagrams here, but that assumes a 20' x 22' room.
Click to expand...

The breaking point is 60 inches from a wall to playing side of a rail (rail covered with cloth). Anotherwords when you put your cue next to a wall and the tip reaches the beginning of the "green rail" you will have about 2 inches to stroke the cue ball frozen to the rail and if you have to shoot through as you stay now. This kind of shot doesn't come offten, but when it will you will have hard time to shoot it with your own cue.
To be absolutely certain that you will be able to stroke any ball from any position I'd go 58 inches from the side of a table or 65 inches from the playing surface.
When I was looking for room for my table I found a room 14"x19" and that is just a hair to tide. I mean is ok for 90% of shots. For the remaining 10% I have to use house cue which is shorter than mine.
 
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iacas said:
At what point would you turn the table on its side to run the long way down the room? I'm hesitant to do that because... I want to use the rest of the room for a couch, a little poker table, whatever.
.
Click to expand...

Pool first. Couches etc. second. I wouldn't go under 19' if I knew I could turn the thing 90°. That is, I'd go the long way.

Fred
 
1pocket said:
I just had a used Gold Crown put in just such a space. Ideally you want a little more than 14-6 x 19 For one thing, the slate width seems to be more like 4'-8" (instead of the 4-6 I always thought), .
Click to expand...
Any idea why you thought the slate width would be 4' 6"? And what are you measuring as "slate width"?

Fred
 
I may very well go the long way. That kinda makes the table the main focus of the room anyway, and it allows more room for ping pong (as I've said before, the wife's only requirement)...

The plans (mentally flip the table and remove the furniture, but not the bar) are still here.
 
Make sure to leave extra room at the breaking end for that big swing, the body extension and the leg coming up from behind!
 
I think I just needed a prod to ditch the plan to go "sideways" with the table. I'm now pretty darn sure I'll go the long way.

I wrote about it on my blog, so, that's usually a good sign that I'm moving in that direction. :)

Now I'm on to thinking about the flooring and the paint color.
 
My pool room is 25' by 26'. By the time your wife fills it up with tables, chairs, bars, bar stools, sofas, etc, you'll need every freakin' inch...
Wally in Cincy said:
I agree. Or get used to using a 48" cue for many of your shots. Personally I would sacrifice the card table and what-not for better playing conditions.
Click to expand...
The day that I have to use a short cue is the day I'll get rid of my table.
 
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iacas said:
In a week, the process of building out the bonus room above my garage will commence. The room will be 22, maybe 23 feet long and 18 or 19 feet across.

I have a 9' table coming.

18' is the minimum space needed for the playing surface + two 58" cues... with no room to move the stick. 19' gives you six inches, of course.

At what point would you turn the table on its side to run the long way down the room? I'm hesitant to do that because... I want to use the rest of the room for a couch, a little poker table, whatever.

The final size has yet to be determined (it depends on a few measurements, but it's down to the inches, I can tell you that)... but we'll know when the drywall goes up, of course.

At what width would you turn the table around? Or would you just buy a single shorter cue for the few times it's needed? If (for the sake of the argument) the room was 18' only: on how many shots would the shorter cue be needed?

Some added info: the room has 5' kneewalls on the side, before it slants up to a flat ceiling at 8'. None of my friends are over 6' tall, so I don't think the slant will be a problem. There are some diagrams here, but that assumes a 20' x 22' room.
Click to expand...


Turn it long ways.....18' is not enough room for a 9-foot

I have room that is 16 x 20 ....It is just big enough .....Only enough room to put furniture in the corners...
 
I also was working with a 20X16 plan, for a GC1 ... that's the carpeted area in my 23x23 room. I was leaving 6 feet from the side walls to be generous, then about 5 1/2 on the open side to the edge of the carpet. The plan got changed when the table was plunked down 6 inches farther from the walls (I couldn't stick around when it was being put up ... and we had a slight failure to communicate). Anyway, when I played on it, I was occasionally stepping off the carpet on 2 sides, so, having lost 6 inches at one end, I sure wouldn't want to settle for a length of 19 1/2 ... or anything less than 16 the other way.
 
iacas said:
At what point would you turn the table on its side to run the long way down the room? I'm hesitant to do that because... I want to use the rest of the room for a couch, a little poker table, whatever.

.
Click to expand...

iacas,

No offence taken. My post pointed out the correct dementions for installing a pool tabel to be able to play with a 58 inch cue.

I would never install a pool table without the proper spacing needed.
 
Custom Poker Table

Wally in Cincy said:
I agree. Or get used to using a 48" cue for many of your shots. Personally I would sacrifice the card table and what-not for better playing conditions.
Click to expand...


Or better yet make or have a custom cover made to cover the table and use it on poker nite ........



Ratchet -
 
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