Routers.... are they really necessary?

S

seven

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm assuming the old time cue makers did not have routers.. im sure they just turned shafts and butts on thier lathe with just the cutting tool. their cues were top quality work. What are the pros and cons of using a router?
are there any cuemakers out there making cues without a router?
 
seven said:
I'm assuming the old time cue makers did not have routers.. im sure they just turned shafts and butts on thier lathe with just the cutting tool. their cues were top quality work. What are the pros and cons of using a router?
are there any cuemakers out there making cues without a router?
Click to expand...

I am fairly certain that mounting a router to a lathe was one of the biggest technological breakthroughs for cuebuilding... ever.
 
BillYards said:
I am fairly certain that mounting a router to a lathe was one of the biggest technological breakthroughs for cuebuilding... ever.
Click to expand...
I agree.
They most likely used chisel or single point to cut wood.
Very stressful on wood.:eek:
A late local maker used single point until he retired. He did not want any part of routers. That's why his shafts were crooked.
Nowadays you have routers and saws ( and soon planer blades ) to cut wood.
 
Turning Shafts

seven said:
I'm assuming the old time cue makers did not have routers.. im sure they just turned shafts and butts on thier lathe with just the cutting tool. their cues were top quality work. What are the pros and cons of using a router?
are there any cuemakers out there making cues without a router?
Click to expand...

There are many ways to "skin a cat" - all of them work - some better than others.

Why are you "sure" the old time cue makers cut butts and shafts with just the lathe cutting tools. There were many other options available to them. I know one who mounted a saw blade on the grinder that fits on the tool post. There were table saws available for many many years that could have had a taper bar attached.

When I look back at some of the work that the "old timers" accomplished with their tools of the day I am always impressed. One of them told me when I was a young man "We just didn't know we couldn't to it".

Be that as it may; the router is the least expensive way to accomplish the cutting of a shaft or butt. It does not do the best job in my opinion but it works if you don't mind doing lots of sanding and some cuemakers have it down to where they do minimul sanding. They just didn't know they couldn't do it :).
 
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Be that as it may; the router is the least expensive way to accomplish the cutting of a shaft or butt. It does not do the best job in my opinion but it works if you don't mind doing lots of sanding and some cuemakers have it down to where they do minimul sanding. They just didn't know they couldn't do it .


Not all can afford saw machines.:)
But, a router with a six-wing cutter cuts pretty smooooth.:)
 
I'll second the six wing cutter comment, once you get your speeds and all set up right...they cut very smooth!

Jeff
 
going beyond the 6wing

JoeyInCali said:

Be that as it may; the router is the least expensive way to accomplish the cutting of a shaft or butt. It does not do the best job in my opinion but it works if you don't mind doing lots of sanding and some cuemakers have it down to where they do minimul sanding. They just didn't know they couldn't do it .


Not all can afford saw machines.:)
But, a router with a six-wing cutter cuts pretty smooooth.:)
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Have you tried using a slitting saw in the router?
I did some test runs many years ago, smooth cut, but a ton
of superfine dust

Dale
 
pdcue said:
Have you tried using a slitting saw in the router?
I did some test runs many years ago, smooth cut, but a ton
of superfine dust

Dale
Click to expand...
No, they scare me.:eek:
I just use them to cut slots at slower rpn and feed rate.
 
Six wing cutter?

I'm curious about the "six wing" cutter mentioned in this thread, but I don't know that it is. Can someone post a picture or a link?
 
BeornLS said:
This is probably the easiest place to get the 6 wing from:

6 Wing Cutter from Cuecomponents

Jeff
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I actually picked up one of these, http://www.freud-tools.com/freudfourwin.html , at a Home Depot. They are now, or at least where I live, a Freud dealer the cutter was under $20.00. I didn't really see any difference between the cut made by the 4 wing as compared to the 6 wing. I mostly use Woodruff cutters like these, http://abmtools.exportersindia.com/woodruff-cutter-key-way.htm, in carbide They really make a smooth cut, you can make nice finish cuts with them, the shaft comes out so smooth you could play with it, maybe the equivalent of being sanded with like a 320 or 400 sand paper. I buy them in 1 1/4 inch diameter and a 1/4 inch face. They weigh 4 ounces and may produce somewhat a flywheel effect due to their weight, that may account for some of why you get such a smooth cut as well as the number of teeth.
 
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Wing cutters

Thanks for the links about the 6 wing and woodruff cutters. Now that I see what you're talking about, it's time for me to show that I still don't quite get it :p . I would assume with these types of cutters the router is mounted vertical rather than horizontal. Is this correct? If so, what is the preferred direction of cut? Right to left (climb milling) or left to right (conventional milling). What about the direction and speed of rotation for the lathe? What would be the optimal depth of cut?
 
http://www.mytoolstore.com/everlast/evr22.html
Check the 6-wingers at the bottom.
YOU HAVE TO reduce the speed of the router to half with these bits though.
No need to go more than 20K RPM.
They are thin and cut sharply.
They are so cheap, you can throw one away every week if you had to.
egspic.gif
 
JoeyInCali said:
http://www.mytoolstore.com/everlast/evr22.html
Check the 6-wingers at the bottom.
YOU HAVE TO reduce the speed of the router to half with these bits though.
No need to go more than 20K RPM.
They are thin and cut sharply.
They are so cheap, you can throw one away every week if you had to.
egspic.gif
Click to expand...

I use the 3 toothed blades. Mount an indicator and make sure that all 3 teeth make contact. If only one or 2 are touching, your cut will not be as smooth. I use a green wheel and a diamond hone to adjust them. At high speed, you can get a really smooth cut. I also made my own arbor, the cheap ones you can buy are rarely true.
 
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