Rule question: Playing with a break cue.

Well,,lets continue to hijack this thread. Actually it's not a total hijack our comments do relate to the original topic.:cool:

The whole issue about this is all about what phenolic is. There are so many different composites of phenolic,,some may be 10% phenolic. Who knows??

I seen a post where one person said his BK2 phenolic hits the balls rather well. It has a regular ferule , a backer and a composite tip. How can this possibly hit the same as a 100% phenolic tip?? (a chain is as strong as its weakest link) I think they mix these materials to make it harder,,but still grip the cue.

Honestly I don't know how all these other tips hit. I only have a cannon cue with a 100% phenolic tip.

Since you have worked with these materials,,explain to me how you think they are the same or different.

I have a open mind,,I could be wrong. But right now I'm not impressed that someone says they are shooting with a phenolic cue,,when it is really a composite. Because I don't believe they are the same. Apples and oranges!! (am I discrediting you or anyone else?)-------> Maybe??

I may have jumped ahead of myself since I don't have these various cues to test. I can admit when I'm wrong but I'm still not a believer.

Thing is,,we are (arguing) over this,, but these sticks are not meant for this application. Why do we care?? :confused: I do not agree with practicing with these tips,, for cue control. lol

We do agree on one thing.. Why would anyone use a phenolic tipped cue in a tournament??

You are insistent that these players, that claim to be using phenolic, are not using 100% phenolic. I believe you are a bit misled on what you believe to be a composite tip. I will not get into tip construction, as there are many on the market and information is easy to find. What allows these tips to "grip the cue" is the ability to hold chalk and resistance to glazing. Bottom line is: phenolic or not, most of these tips are all of about the same hardness. In order to be able to play with one of these tips, you need to use chalk. I already told you how this is possible; the surface needs to be roughed up a bit for the chalk to adhere to it. It doesn't matter if the tip is 100% phenolic, or 100% leather, as the same hardness can be acheived with either tip. I think your opinion on this matter is based on the fact that you already mentioned that you don't use chalk on your phenolic tip, as you claim that it won't help.
 
You are insistent that these players, that claim to be using phenolic, are not using 100% phenolic. I believe you are a bit misled on what you believe to be a composite tip. I will not get into tip construction, as there are many on the market and information is easy to find. What allows these tips to "grip the cue" is the ability to hold chalk and resistance to glazing. Bottom line is: phenolic or not, most of these tips are all of about the same hardness. In order to be able to play with one of these tips, you need to use chalk. I already told you how this is possible; the surface needs to be roughed up a bit for the chalk to adhere to it. It doesn't matter if the tip is 100% phenolic, or 100% leather, as the same hardness can be acheived with either tip. I think your opinion on this matter is based on the fact that you already mentioned that you don't use chalk on your phenolic tip, as you claim that it won't help.

The bold line says it all. Quit posting!!! About something you don't know about. LMAO
 
The bold line says it all. Quit posting!!! About something you don't know about. LMAO

I'll stop posting in this thread, because you're ignorance is not worth my time. I have better things to do than give you a lesson in materials science. You seem to already know everything there is to know about that kind of thing.

But please, continue to clutter this forum with an abundance of misinformation. Surely there isn't enough of that already.
 
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