Run This (28)
- Thread starter CueAndMe
- Start date
It may be a little dangerous to leave the 15 and 5 until last, but I think you can screw up quite a lot during the run and still get a good angle on either the 5 or 15. They are the easiest key balls for the 4.
I did something similar to yours Dan first, then I scrapped it because I thought that I couldn't hold the cueball down table off of the 5 and 15 balls for the setup for the 4. I may be wrong about that, but it is delicate.
I started over and this is what I came up with. I settled on a less desirable break ball with the 15, because it was simple to fall on.
I started over and this is what I came up with. I settled on a less desirable break ball with the 15, because it was simple to fall on.
I'm a recreational 14.1 player at best. We'll call my high run "20ish-undocumented" 
So, I was pretty pleased when I saw my solution posted by someone else here.
I came up with the same thing that Dan did. If I get down to the 5 ball and don't think I've got the angle to hold for the 15, I'll just play for the 4 in the top left corner and use the 15 as a secondary break ball.
(still working on this Cuetable thing, so hopefully the explanation will suffice)
So, I was pretty pleased when I saw my solution posted by someone else here. I came up with the same thing that Dan did. If I get down to the 5 ball and don't think I've got the angle to hold for the 15, I'll just play for the 4 in the top left corner and use the 15 as a secondary break ball.
(still working on this Cuetable thing, so hopefully the explanation will suffice)
spoons said:
Yeah, I think the key is just to get enough follow on the 14 to give a shallow angle for the 5. If you aren't straight on the 14, you could either go into the side rail and out, or even to the foot rail and up, depending on your angle. I think there is enough room for error to go for it. That, plus the 4 is so much better a break ball than the 15. It is easy to miss the 15 (rail shot) when hitting hard enough to break the pack.
I'd work on removing rail balls AND manufacturing a breaker by first going 6, 5, to get an angle on the 4 to bump the 14 out for a breaker with the 3, 10 as insurance.
or, you can go 6, draw back to the 3 with an angle to bump down the 10 for a breaker with an 8 ball insurance. If it fails use the 8 to get to the 4 to nudge out the 14, but the 2 bottom rail balls may be tough.
and theres 6, 5 to bump the 4 up for a breaker with all kinds of insurance...
G.
or, you can go 6, draw back to the 3 with an angle to bump down the 10 for a breaker with an 8 ball insurance. If it fails use the 8 to get to the 4 to nudge out the 14, but the 2 bottom rail balls may be tough.
and theres 6, 5 to bump the 4 up for a breaker with all kinds of insurance...
G.
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I can see a player of higher ability than me going for all of those options. I don't trust myself to nudge balls with enough accuracy to pull them off. And, since the 4 and 15 are already there, I'm not playing with a chance to run 2 full racks and break my high run record!! Different goals for different skill levels I guessGerry said:I'd work on removing rail balls AND manufacturing a breaker by first going 6, 5, to get an angle on the 4 to bump the 14 out for a breaker with the 3, 10 as insurance.
or, you can go 6, draw back to the 3 with an angle to bump down the 10 for a breaker with an 8 ball insurance. If it fails use the 8 to get to the 4 to nudge out the 14, but the 2 bottom rail balls may be tough.
and theres 6, 5 to bump the 4 up for a breaker with all kinds of insurance...
G.
Gerry said:I'd work on removing rail balls AND manufacturing a breaker by first going 6, 5, to get an angle on the 4 to bump the 14 out for a breaker with the 3, 10 as insurance.
or, you can go 6, draw back to the 3 with an angle to bump down the 10 for a breaker with an 8 ball insurance. If it fails use the 8 to get to the 4 to nudge out the 14, but the 2 bottom rail balls may be tough.
and theres 6, 5 to bump the 4 up for a breaker with all kinds of insurance...
G.
Excellent. I didn't notice these opportunities. I can see why your high run is well above 100.
bluepepper said:
I don't mean to speak for Blackjack, but I believe he would wouldn't mess with creating new break balls, and just take the 4 as a pretty good break ball as is. I tend to try and manufacture break balls as often as I have an opportunity, but I'm trying to accept more bottom of the rack break balls lately. Blackjack also runs over 100 balls pretty often and I THINK he would go about it completely differently, so I don't know whatever that means...
Maybe he'll catch this thread and throw in his 2 cents.
thanks for the kind words guys! the reason I am looking to create breakers is I always go back to my rules of 14.1, and in this instance the break balls are weak, and there are a bunch of rail balls. So, I tried to make breakers and rid the table of rail shots. Having 8 or so balls on the table, there is time to try to manufacture for a few shots as well IMO. I just re-read Babe Cranfelds 14.1 Bible, and he kapt saying "keep making break balls even though you have 1, just in case the pattern goes bad"....in so many words...
excellent thread....
G.
excellent thread....
G.
I see your point Dan, but I think this suggestion by Gerry isn't too big of a risk to consider with the insurance 8-ball:
8 pages...
I don't really like moving balls into a break ball if I already have one available... so I'm taking the 4 as the break ball.
I'm going to use the 6 as my key ball, and the 15 as my set up ball.
edit.. spelling.
I don't really like moving balls into a break ball if I already have one available... so I'm taking the 4 as the break ball.
I'm going to use the 6 as my key ball, and the 15 as my set up ball.
edit.. spelling.
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thyme3421 said:
I like your sequence. I wonder though about holding the cueball low enough for the 15 after the 5 from where you end up off of the 14. And also holding the cueball off of the rail for the 4 off of the 6 from such a thin cut.
Just a possibility that may at least be easier to manage would be to go a little further off of the 14, so you have the following:
I'm not great at estimating the direction off of a rail shot, but I think it would be pretty close to what I show. One rule that seems to work well for me is that the most extreme angle, with inside english, you can achieve off of a rail shot is about equal to the angle coming into the shot. Like the shot in my diagram of the 5-ball. The cueball would come off pretty much a mirror of the angle going into the foot rail if I used extreme left english.
I'm curious if anyone else has a similar rule they follow.