Schon Ivory Shaft Question

jed1894

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I'm planning to order another Schon shaft and wondering how different, better, worst, etc. is the Ivory shaft compared to the stock Schon shaft. What difference will I notice, if any? Or is this just a waste of money?

JED
 
Ivory shaft

Hopefully you are talking about Ivory ferrules (an Ivory shaft would be very, very expensive, and I am unfamiliar with how it would play)

You should find a slightly softer hit depending upon what ferrule you are acostomed to.
 
Eagleshot said:
Hopefully you are talking about Ivory ferrules (an Ivory shaft would be very, very expensive, and I am unfamiliar with how it would play)

You should find a slightly softer hit depending upon what ferrule you are acostomed to.

My bad. Yep, the ferrule. I've been playing mostly with the Schon stock ferrule, but instead of ordering another shaft with a tab bit softer tip, I thought I order an Ivory ferrule shaft with the stock Schon tip and see how I like it.

JED
 
> When you call Evan to order one,even he will tell you if you can't feel the difference,why pay the difference?

If you CAN feel it,there IS a difference. The feel of the shaft is crisper,and will make a slightly different sound when coming thru the ball. This is even more apparent without the pad under the tip. I use the Sumo one piece tips,which are pretty similar to the WB Schon uses by default,and no pad.

As best I can tell,there is no difference in the quality of the wood he chooses to put ivory ferrules on,at least no more variation that you get from shaft blank to blank.

I don't have a problem at all with their standard material,but ivory is better for ME,so that's all I use,but my shafts are old enough they don't have the engraving above the collars.

You can't go wrong with ivory,unless you're caught up in the low-deflection debate. All you have to remember is simple cue care.

Wipe a little carnauba wax on it maybe once a week.
Keep the edges of worn-out chalk off it.
Chalk dust will NOT stick to it in an amount that can't be blown off with your lips.
Do NOT let it get cold or hot and then rapidly change environments.
Weather has cracked or shattered more ivory ferrules and joints than actual play or even breaking EVER has.
This isn't as critical if you leave the pad on,but don't let the tip get down to less than 1/16 sidewall thickness and start breaking with it.

Hope this helps,Tommy D.
 
I think ivory ferrules hit great. You may need to make a slight adjustment for the increased cueball deflection.
 
Roadkill said:
I think ivory ferrules hit great. You may need to make a slight adjustment for the increased cueball deflection.

Maybe if you've been playing with a Predator shaft, or some other type of laminated shaft, but I've been playing with ivory ferrules for decades, and I just took delivery of a new Olney cue with LBM ferrules, and I don't notice any diff in deflection.

In regards to the previous post. The kiss of death is to allow a cue with an ivory ferrule to freeze in the car in the winter, and then to bring it in and break with it before it adjusts to room temp. Other than that, I broke with my Josswest with ivory ferrules for years. The ferrules are from 1979 and still uncracked and solid. With laminated tips, I don't see any reason for a shock pad under the tip. With a hard leather tip and no layers maybe, but I've found that increases the chance of an air bubble and the resultant little "ping". I use a break cue now and I've decided that I don't need shock pads. I do like the look though, both red and black...Tom
 
Thanks for all the information and, no, I'm not caught up with the deflection thing (anymore). I use to be, but not now. I'm probably wasting my money because I really like the Schon the way it is. I first thought it was very hard (hit), but I've since gotten use to it and it plays real good. Very good cue ball control now. I guess they (Schon) know what they're doing with this hard tip thing.

JED
 
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