Serious discussion about condition and values

[classiccues]

This is regarding vintage cues, 20 years or older. What is the acceptable amount of runout, non straightness, roll out, whatever you want to call it in a cue?

How much before you take a pass? Here is the basis for my questioning, I know a few people have different "methods" of checking for straightness and as cues get older, they just don't all stay straight.

Should there be an "adder" for cues that are straight? I mean the blue book has genereal grades of description, but for the older cues, should straightness also be a major factor in pricing?

To me, straightness rolling on a table is generally a good sign. I know people like to rail roll it. I know some people have their local cuesmith put it in the lathe and spin it with an indicator. Some other people are more anal and over the top.

What's your opinion?

JV

 

[cubswin]

on a 20 year old cue I expect a bit of wobble. I don't want to see alot though, and really don't like seeing any in the butt. I've brought cues that had a bit in the butt, maybe two credit cards or a little more of light. Shafts showing a little light doesn't bug me personally. Keep in mind I tend to buy the old cues to play with, so I'm not in the high end market collectible cues. I would think if I was I wouldn't be overly concerned as long as it wasn't crazy warped. Paying for the history of the cue, the name, the non ability to have them made, instead of how straight the cue is. If it rolls fairly straight on the table, tip not lifting up then I'm ok with it from a playing stand point.



Just my .02, but I'm just the low end guy.

 

[Roadie]

I consider straightness in older cues to be a deciding factor in the purchasing decision. I have seen many older cues that are perfectly straight.

One cannot account for all a cue has been through in it's life. A cue however is meant to be played with and cues which are not perfectly straight may indeed be perfectly ok to play with.

Still though a straight cue is preferred to one which is not and if a cue is not straight then it should detract from the value.

If there is a scale then mint condition and straight is the best possible condition. That should fetch the highest price and any time a cue is in a condition that is less it should bring a lower price than the best state a cue could be in.

A cue can be warped for two reasons only. Poor construction or poor care. Either way an older cue being warped would detract from it's value in my opinion.

How much warpage is acceptable is really a cue by cue decision. If I just want something pretty to put in my display case then I can probably accept more warp if the price is right. If I want to play with it or resell it at some point then I want as little warp as I can find.

 

[AK-Stick]

Id want none, I live in Alaska and purchased a cue from Gus in 1982 shot with it through 1996 abnd sold it, it was still straight.

 

[ScottR]

For me, the butt must be straight. A little wobble in the shafts is not a deal breaker, and also not surprising in a cue that old.

When the shaft is rolled on the table and always settles with the same side down, that is too much bend for me.

Scott <<== also not an expert

 

[cornerstone]

This is regarding vintage cues, 20 years or older. What is the acceptable amount of runout, non straightness, roll out, whatever you want to call it in a cue?

How much before you take a pass? Here is the basis for my questioning, I know a few people have different "methods" of checking for straightness and as cues get older, they just don't all stay straight.

Should there be an "adder" for cues that are straight? I mean the blue book has genereal grades of description, but for the older cues, should straightness also be a major factor in pricing?

To me, straightness rolling on a table is generally a good sign. I know people like to rail roll it. I know some people have their local cuesmith put it in the lathe and spin it with an indicator. Some other people are more anal and over the top.

What's your opinion?

JV

I think you are correct like a vintage camaro with orig paint, is is not going to be held to the same standards as a new vett. the older cues were top notch for there day but the ones of today have much smaller tollerances. and you have to give some room for age, no matter what ,age plays a toll on everything and everything breaks down in some way or another. so I think you post is well needed . i believe some run out should be expected . and if there is none, then that should add to the value instead of somthing mild detracting from it! Good post Joe