Setting up higher over power draw shots.

mnorwood

Moon
Silver Member
One major weak point in my game is long draw and stun shots that require alot of power. These shots come up more often when I have to move white longer distances.

Usually I put my chin just above the cue. However, I feel like this hampers my stroke when applying power. When setting up low I feel like my wrist gets in an awkward position just before contact.

To remedy this I am elevating my head higher and I am getting very good results. It feels like my arm delivers the cue without having to use alot of crazy wrist action.

Does anyone have a similar experience?
 
Elevating the body (specifically the shoulder) does make more room for your arm to swing. Furthermore, it brings your frontal deltoids and pectoral muscles into the stroke, because consciously or unconsciously, if you bring yourself up high, you're probably not going to immobilize your shoulder joint through the stroke, and from up high the shoulder movement will push your arm faster down the stroke, as opposed to a low stance where a shoulder movement only pushes your arm down toward the table. Now the force of your elbow flex is supported by a little shoulder flex, and it adds quite a large power increase with no perceptible increase in effort.

Shoulder movement, however, is very much a double-edged sword because a stroke with more moving parts is a stroke that is harder to execute accurately. Also, if you're used to having your head low, it's hard to sight longer shots from up high.

If you want to get better power from the low position, there's something wrong with your grip, your stroke, or your cue length if your wrist feels like it needs to do tricks on the follow-through. I stay low on power shots because I don't want to sacrifice accuracy, and I concentrate on a smooth, unchecked delivery of power. It's really quite a mental trick, at least for me, to release the cue through the stroke without using any of your little muscles to "steer" the cue through the stroke, which totally robs the cue of acceleration. Once you can get the feeling of pulling the cue back and then totally releasing all tension through the forward stroke, I think you'll find that a)your wrist movements will take care of themselves and b)you've got all the power you need.

If you want to straighten out whatever your wrist is doing funny, one thing I recommend trying is to practice-stroke a while with something uncomfortable in your grip hand along with the cue, such as a cube of chalk. You won't be able to "guide" the cue because your hand won't be comfortable doing so, you'll just have to learn to let it go through. Once you're practice-stroking straight and loose with the interfering object, hit some balls that way. It'll allow you to get the feeling of not holding the stroke back by guiding it at all. You'll also have to learn to be smooth, because with the interfering object in the way, if you try to jerk the cue forward too suddenly, you'll lose your grip.

-Andrew
 
Another technique you can use to help train yourself not to steer the cue ball or to clench your grip during the stroke is to spend a couple minutes a day hitting the ball with your eyes closed. What I do is to set up a long stop shot, go through the normal pre-shot and warmup stroke routine, but on the final backswing I close my eyes and keep them closed until I hear the collision of the balls. By doing this, you don't allow yourself to anticipate contact with the cue ball and will be free to just swing the cue through the ball. You'll be surprised with how many of the shots you make, and if you pay attention, you will feel the higher quality of the hit. Try to remember this feeling. Obviously, you can do the same thing when you're practicing your draw shots. The key is to remember the feeling of the hit so that you can duplicate it in practice and play.

The other thing that you develop in the drill is that by keeping your eyes closed until the balls collide, you are training your body to stay down and finish the stroke.

Good luck,
VIProfessor
 
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