shaft for Dufferin cue?

[D-Sub]

I know this is a "cheap" cue but it plays well. I like it. Nuff said, right?

SO...the stock shaft is a little too narrow for me, and the ferrule's cracked. No good.

I can't afford a shaft from the local cue builders, so am wondering what I might be able to do. Obviously an uncommon joint:

I'd like a closer to 13mm shaft...maybe even slightly over. I have another shaft from an old cue that has a standard thread pattern...could this maybe be filled and redrilled or?

pardon my ignorance. I am not a cuemaker and have almost zero knowledge of how the are made, so I humbly ask for suggestions

Thanks in advance.

 

[rhncue]

I know this is a "cheap" cue but it plays well. I like it. Nuff said, right?

SO...the stock shaft is a little too narrow for me, and the ferrule's cracked. No good.

I can't afford a shaft from the local cue builders, so am wondering what I might be able to do. Obviously an uncommon joint:

I'd like a closer to 13mm shaft...maybe even slightly over. I have another shaft from an old cue that has a standard thread pattern...could this maybe be filled and redrilled or?

pardon my ignorance. I am not a cuemaker and have almost zero knowledge of how the are made, so I humbly ask for suggestions

Thanks in advance.

I don't know about re-drilling and re-tapping would work but another shaft could very easily be adapted to the butt. You may loose a 1/4 inch or so in length doing it cheaply but it can definitely be done.

Dick

 

[D-Sub]

I live near Zeiler...I should just see if he can fit the other shaft...

I envision filling the joint on the forearm side so it's just a flat faced joint?

 

[WilleeCue]

D-Sub, fitting a new shaft to your cue is not a problem.
If you change the joint then the cue will play differently and the old shaft will no longer fit without modification.
The joint ring and insert can be cut away from the old shaft in such a way to form a tennon to be glued into a new shaft. Of course this will destroy the old shaft but the new one will fit up to the joint as good (or as bad) as the old one. I would charge $100 for a new shaft fitted this way.

 

[D-Sub]

D-Sub, fitting a new shaft to your cue is not a problem.
If you change the joint then the cue will play differently and the old shaft will no longer fit without modification.
The joint ring and insert can be cut away from the old shaft in such a way to form a tennon to be glued into a new shaft. Of course this will destroy the old shaft but the new one will fit up to the joint as good (or as bad) as the old one. I would charge $100 for a new shaft fitted this way.

Hoping to keep the original shaft intact.

What about removing the pin, replacing it with a standard one, filling the cavity to create a flat faced joint? Just curious.

 

[WilleeCue]

Hoping to keep the original shaft intact.

What about removing the pin, replacing it with a standard one, filling the cavity to create a flat faced joint? Just curious.

Then how would the original shaft fit it?

That would also change the feel of the cue.

 

[D-Sub]

Then how would the original shaft fit it?

That would also change the feel of the cue.

LOL! DUH!

The feel...I know...

maybe I should just get the ferrule replaced. leave it at that. maybe have a shaft made at a later date

 

[qbilder]

If & when you can afford it, i'd change the joint to a standard 5/16-18. The feel of the cue won't change by much, not nearly enough to change the characteristics you most likely enjoy. I'm guessing the shaft taper & butt stiffness is what you like in the cue. By changing the joint to a flat faced 5/16-18, you'll be making it a standard joint with endless shaft possibilities. Send the existing shaft to one of the builders here who can replicate the taper and add the extra thickness you desire. The overall cost will be around $200+ but it'll be a cue customized for your specs. There's a handful of builders on this site who specialize in repairs & mods. RHN does a fantastic job. He might even have better ideas. But if it were my cue & I had plans of keeping it, then i'd modify it to allow easy maintenance & replacement components. From there it would be easy to get extra shafts or replacement shafts. Just an idea to kick around. There are other good ideas already given, too.

 

[Lupin3th]

Easy to fix/change for a standard pin. Dufferin use a partial threaded 5/16-14. Really the only thing you really need to do is change the pin for a standard 5/16-14 pin and you will be still able to use the old shaft and fit new shafts like a 314 to it quite easily. I have Dufferin with the same type of joint and had the modifications made so it would be more universal to all my other shafts.

 

[D-Sub]

Easy to fix/change for a standard pin. Dufferin use a partial threaded 5/16-14. Really the only thing you really need to do is change the pin for a standard 5/16-14 pin and you will be still able to use the old shaft and fit new shafts like a 314 to it quite easily. I have Dufferin with the same type of joint and had the modifications made so it would be more universal to all my other shafts.

You sure? I have a shaft from a (what I thought was) a standard threaded cue and it doesn't fit.

 

[Lupin3th]

Depends on what you have as a spare shaft. I know it a partial 5/16-14 because I had a dufferin just like it custom converted while still using the dufferin shaft as a break shaft.

There is 5/16-14, 5/16-18, 3/10-11, radial, uni-loc, etc.

 

[rhncue]

You sure? I have a shaft from a (what I thought was) a standard threaded cue and it doesn't fit.

Just what do you mean by "doesn't fit"? If the shaft that has a 5/16X14 thread does not screw on at all then chances are they are a different thread. If, however, the shaft starts to screw on but then stops before it is completely seated, then that is a result of the pin being a quick disconnect. This can be taken care of by boring the insert to the same size and depth as the original shaft. This way the shaft will drop into place and the threads will then pull it into place the same way as the original.

Dick

 

[D-Sub]

Just what do you mean by "doesn't fit"? If the shaft that has a 5/16X14 thread does not screw on at all then chances are they are a different thread. If, however, the shaft starts to screw on but then stops before it is completely seated, then that is a result of the pin being a quick disconnect. This can be taken care of by boring the insert to the same size and depth as the original shaft. This way the shaft will drop into place and the threads will then pull it into place the same way as the original.

Dick

Thanks for all the info, guys!

 

[KJ Cues]

Easy to fix/change for a standard pin. Dufferin use a partial threaded 5/16-14. Really the only thing you really need to do is change the pin for a standard 5/16-14 pin and you will be still able to use the old shaft and fit new shafts like a 314 to it quite easily. I have Dufferin with the same type of joint and had the modifications made so it would be more universal to all my other shafts.

I like this option and would probably go this route if I didn't have this option :

The Dufferin pin & insert look amazingly similar to Pechauer's which are also 14 thd. If you could locate a Pechauer insert your problem is solved.

The Pechauer pin has a few less threads and the insert is capped. Drill the insert straight through, tap to continue the existing threads and you don't have to change anything.

Duh, it just dawned on me. A std 14 thd insert will work if you remove the first few thrds. at the entrance. The blank shank section on the pin looks to be the same diameter as the major of the thds. so you wouldn't be weakening the insert.

 

[KJ Cues]

I know this is a "cheap" cue but it plays well. I like it. Nuff said, right?

SO...the stock shaft is a little too narrow for me, and the ferrule's cracked. No good.

I can't afford a shaft from the local cue builders, so am wondering what I might be able to do. Obviously an uncommon joint:

I'd like a closer to 13mm shaft...maybe even slightly over. I have another shaft from an old cue that has a standard thread pattern...could this maybe be filled and redrilled or?

pardon my ignorance. I am not a cuemaker and have almost zero knowledge of how the are made, so I humbly ask for suggestions

Thanks in advance.

D-Sub,
In re-reading your orig. post, you state that you have another shaft.
What thread is in the insert of that shaft? If it's a 14 thd. you're in business way cheap. Have the first few thds. of the insert drilled or bored out until the shaft seats on the collar. It looks like you may have to remove 4 or 5 thds, hopefully no more. But you should still be alright. A lot of today's quick release joint sets are relying on just a few thds. for connection anyway. The size of the drill will be determined by the diameter of the blank area below the thds. on the pin.

Have this done by a competent cue smith or machinist. DO NOT try to drill out the insert with a hand held drill motor.

If the shaft you have is not a 14 thd. you'll need to have the insert removed and a 14 installed. The drilling/boring of the insert can be done before the insert is installed or after. It's not going to make any difference.

I tell you what, since I'm the one suggesting this low cost remedy, you pay the shipping both ways and I'll do the work for FREE. It'll take me all of 15 - 20 mins. even if I have to swap inserts. What a guy huh? Besides, my karma could always use a shot. PM if you like, KJ

Addendum
It would appear that Mr. Neighbors' suggestion/remedy and mine are pretty much the same 'fix'. I really need to read these posts in greater detail.