shaft length

thewhiffer

thewhiffer

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Is there a reason for their being a choice between a shaft of regular (29 inch) length and the optional 30 inch length?

Excluding the obvious, funny, comments in respect of having an extra inch, what purpose would the 30 inch shaft serve.

Are there other options in respect of longer than 30 inch shafts?
 
When I ordered an OB shaft, Seybert's sent me a 30" shaft instead of a 29" (I don't know if the mistake was theirs or mine).

I figured what-the-heck, I'll give it a try. It felt better immediately; I think because it forward-weighted the cue a little more. I actually did notice the extra inch of reach but that's not a big plus factor to me. It was more the balance.

It seems odd that 1 inch of maple (at 11.75 mm), which is probably no more than a couple of grams (0.1 ounce) has an effect on the balance.

Of course, maybe it's all psychosomatic :grin-square:

BTW, the shaft was a back-up shaft. I already had the same shaft in 29" so I know how it felt.
 
When pool stance were upright the standard cue length offered was 57". A lower stance, or snooker stance is the norm taught nowadays, and a slightly longer cue is needed to preserve shooting form.
 
When I play with a 58" cue (29/29), my back hand is usually gripping the very end of the cue. With a 30" shaft, I keep the same bridge length, but my back hand is now further away from the bumper.
 
Both my playing cues are 59" overall, equal split.

Good balance with slightly longer reach (1").
 
bdorman said:
It seems odd that 1 inch of maple (at 11.75 mm), which is probably no more than a couple of grams (0.1 ounce) has an effect on the balance.

Of course, maybe it's all psychosomatic
Click to expand...

Yes, that's exactly what it is.
There will be no noticeable difference and the cue has suddenly become a forward weighted cue.
Just moving your bridge would make much more of a difference.

That being said I like a 60" cue, 30/30.
It's the reach.
 
I'm a short guy and that extra inch really threw me. It's like the balance point had changed completely and it threw everything off. Switching back to the the standard length (29") made all the difference. But things like that make a huge difference to me, I just can't seem to get past the maple ferrule the OB's have, or the Kamui Clear Tip - the little bit of light that shines through the clear part really messes me up
 
Celophanewrap said:
I just can't seem to get past the maple ferrule the OB's have, or the Kamui Clear Tip - the little bit of light that shines through the clear part really messes me up
Click to expand...

I don't notice the wooden ferule of the OB...but I once had a Kamui Clear and yes, it messed me up too. I just couldn't ignore it.
 
bdorman said:
I don't notice the wooden ferule of the OB...but I once had a Kamui Clear and yes, it messed me up too. I just couldn't ignore it.
Click to expand...

I actually liked how that clear part looked like, although my shaft had the black marker on it (shaft I have was Dechaine's) so that probably changed how it looked like overall.

I think what it did for me is that I was watching the interaction with the tip and the cueball more during practice strokes and was thinking less about the shot or missing, causing me to play better.

I've posted this before a bunch of times, but I went from my 29" Players HXT to a 30" OB then to a 29" OB. The week I went from the 30" OB to the 29" one I won my local tournament 3 weeks in a row and had one week when I lost 2 games the whole night.

The 30" shaft was harder to aim and control I though, it seemed to give too much momentum to the cue.
 
I have made quite a few long shafts for local players. They all love them. A long shaft does not have enough extra weight to change the balance point or make the cue feel front weighted.

A 60 inch cue that is a 50/50 split feels awkward where a standard 29 inch butt with a long shaft does not.

I make then 30, 31, 32, and 33 inches long.............

Kim
 
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