Shaft Question

Kmack

Registered
If I have a one piece cue that has a "special" hit/feel could it be cut and the a shaft made for use on a 2 piece cue and maintain the hit qualities?
 
Kmack said:
If I have a one piece cue that has a "special" hit/feel could it be cut and the a shaft made for use on a 2 piece cue and maintain the hit qualities?
The cue can be made into a two piece cue and it should still hit good provided it is done by the right cuemaker. I don't think it will have the same feedback that you now experience so you might not like it. If it ain't broke don't fix it :)
 
Arnot Wadsworth said:
The cue can be made into a two piece cue and it should still hit good provided it is done by the right cuemaker. I don't think it will have the same feedback that you now experience so you might not like it. If it ain't broke don't fix it :)

Tap,. Tap,.
 
Thanks

Thanks for the answers. The cue is a Valley brand $15.00 house cue for my table at home but for whatever reason it just works for me. I was hoping I could make it more portable.
 
Kmack said:
Thanks for the answers. The cue is a Valley brand $15.00 house cue for my table at home but for whatever reason it just works for me. I was hoping I could make it more portable.

I am not a cuemaker, but I think what could be done to keep the hit as close as possible to the way it is now is cut/part the cue in half. Drill out the joint end of the butt. Tap the hole, screw in and glue a hard maple threaded plug. Drill and tap/cut threads in the shaft to have a two piece "house cue" without metal in the joint that is portable. That might(?) keep the feedback as close to original that Mr. Arnot mentioned.

The cuemaker could screw the shaft on carefully before the maple plug is completely set to see how the grain lines line up and possibly make an adjustment if he/she felt that effort would be worth it. It might be easier to do that if the plug was only a snug fit and glued rather than treaded (the part sticking out of the butt that fit into the shaft would still be threaded ofcourse), that way the plug could easily be rotated so the grain lines match up.

Again, I am NOT a cuemaker, so maybe one of the cuemakers here might tell you why that would not be an option.

But, the cost of a cuemaker doing that would be more than the cue is worth.
Kelly
 
Kmack said:
If I have a one piece cue that has a "special" hit/feel could it be cut and the a shaft made for use on a 2 piece cue and maintain the hit qualities?

I do it all of the time. If the person wants to keep the same weight distribution, I use a 3/8-10 aluminum screw. If they want to balance it a little better, I use a 3/8-10 steel screw & then take some weight out of the butt. This screw threads directly into the wood of the shaft & gives you the most surface on the shaft, touching the wood of the butt. This is the closest to the original one piece feel you're going to get. Look for a cuemaker to charge you $50 -$75, if there is no retapering or painting involved...JER
 
<The cuemaker could screw the shaft on carefully before the maple plug is completely set to see how the grain lines line up and possibly make an adjustment if he/she felt that effort would be worth it. It might be easier to do that if the plug was only a snug fit and glued rather than treaded (the part sticking out of the butt that fit into the shaft would still be threaded ofcourse), that way the plug could easily be rotated so the grain lines match up.>

That sounds good but that is not the way we do it here. After everything is made, the glue has cured etc., we face the shaft until it lands correctly.
 
Arnot Wadsworth said:
<The cuemaker could screw the shaft on carefully before the maple plug is completely set to see how the grain lines line up and possibly make an adjustment if he/she felt that effort would be worth it. It might be easier to do that if the plug was only a snug fit and glued rather than treaded (the part sticking out of the butt that fit into the shaft would still be threaded ofcourse), that way the plug could easily be rotated so the grain lines match up.>

That sounds good but that is not the way we do it here. After everything is made, the glue has cured etc., we face the shaft until it lands correctly.

I did not think of that, thank you Sir. You probably do not remember the specific conversation (though you may), but I called you a year ago to discuss learning cuemaking with you. You gave me some straight honest talk about it, and I very much appreciated your spending the time to do that.

(sorry for the slight hijack kmack)
Kelly
 
Back
Top