Shaft sealer.

Gravey39

Gravey39

Active member
Okay so I received my acrylics shaft sealer bottle from pool dawg today. I decided to use some after cleaning my charts. So I use a lot of polycrylic on job sites when I’m sealing wood etc… this stuff looks the exact same, smells the exact same. Is it safe to say they are? Would it be safe to use the numerous amounts of quart cans of polycrylic to seal my shafts? Instead of paying for this tiny bottle?
 
If you have adequate ventilation, thin CA is the best sealer I've used. I apply it lightly to the entire area to be sealed, then immediately sand with 600, then 800 to remove it from the surface. It will seal the grain and keep it from raising. Hit it with some wax, burnish, and you're golden. (y)
 
Sheldon said:
If you have adequate ventilation, thin CA is the best sealer I've used. I apply it lightly to the entire area to be sealed, then immediately sand with 600, then 800 to remove it from the surface. It will seal the grain and keep it from raising. Hit it with some wax, burnish, and you're golden. (y)
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I’ve tried but I almost messed it all up. I applied it and tried using a nice micro fiber rag to spread before spraying with activator. Tag started ti stick ti the damn thing before I ever got the activator out lol. My buddy had an idea to get a small misting sprayer and put the thin CA glue inside and apply that way then activate. Haven’t tried it yet.
 
JoeyInCali said:
I use the same thing before final sanding of shafts . But, I thin it a little bit .
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Cool, I’ll give it a try then. Polycrylic is super versatile so I was wondering if I should try it or not. After getting this sealer from pool dawg and noticing that It seemed the same, I’m definitely going to try it. I have each kind laying around, Gloss, semi gloss, satin and matte. I wonder which one would be best.
 
Gravey39 said:
I’ve tried but I almost messed it all up. I applied it and tried using a nice micro fiber rag to spread before spraying with activator. Tag started ti stick ti the damn thing before I ever got the activator out lol. My buddy had an idea to get a small misting sprayer and put the thin CA glue inside and apply that way then activate. Haven’t tried it yet.
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I use single ply toilet paper. Scott tissue 1,000 sheet per roll works great. Fold it up nice and flat, then hold that against the bottom of the shaft. Drop the CA onto the shaft from just above and move both from one side to the other. Do it quickly and evenly, it might take a few tries to get the hang of it, but you will figure it out pretty quick. The key is a nice even application, only enough to lightly and evenly dampen the wood. A glove is helpful as the CA will sometimes soak through the TP if you're not careful. No activator! You don't want superglue left on the shaft. It will make it sticky. You just want it to soak into the pores, and fill any tiny imperfections. Swipe, then immediately sand until you hit wood again. LIGHT application is key, or you will have to sand way too much. One piece of 600 and one of 800 should be enough.
 
Is there a particular formula of CA that you use for this? Most CA I've used sets up faster than I think I could spread it evenly.
 
tomatoshooter said:
Is there a particular formula of CA that you use for this? Most CA I've used sets up faster than I think I could spread it evenly.
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I use a paper towel, and put a little oil on the folded paper piece. The I add a few drops on the towel and hold it against a dummy piece, moving it a little. This primes and seals my paper towel. Then just like Sheldon does, drop the ca on the top of the shaft and hold the towel near the bottom and move it along. I buy the low odour thin CA, has slightly less fumes. I like the CA as a sealer, better than the nitrate sealer I was using on the 1st cue I made. You can over coat with either an epoxy finish later or just layer up the CA and use that as your finish. The CA is not as hard as the Auto clears though. It all depends on what you want it to look like etc. CA with oil like GreyGhost ? was using , actually makes a varnish when the two are combined. I like the look of that on some wood pens from many years ago. My test with plain baby oil and CA has been doing great, and not yellowed Yet. I make a Vee blocks to hold the paper and it works very well to sand down and keep it round and flattens out any slight imperfections on the surface. You can also use the thin CA to seal a carbon shaft as well. But does wear through over time and becomes streaky of the original layer colour and shiny CA colour as the thin layer wears in the bridge zone. The very thin CA is effectively a near pure CA with no fillers or enhancers. It wicks very well into the smallest of gaps, which is what you want a sealer to do. Lots of very thin coats is better than one heavy coat. Just have a play on a few test pieces first, until you get the hang of it. Once you get the feel for the rpm and rate of dropping the thin CA and lightly holding the spreader pad, it will become very easy to do. I place cling wrap over the bed and some paper on top to keep the dust out and any glue drops from becoming features on the machine.
 
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Sheldon said:
If you have adequate ventilation, thin CA is the best sealer I've used. I apply it lightly to the entire area to be sealed, then immediately sand with 600, then 800 to remove it from the surface. It will seal the grain and keep it from raising. Hit it with some wax, burnish, and you're golden. (y)
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and a face shield with assisted air .
 
conetip said:
You can do it without a lathe too. Just makes it slower to get there.
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Just get a bolt with correct pin with two nuts on it so it will lock tight to the shaft then chuck in drill. Works great in a pinch. You can get fancy and build a triangle clamp with three bearings and put that on the ferrule with some tape. It helps stabilize it. That’s how I use to burnish and fix my shafts prior to ever having a lathe.
 
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