Shaft thread depth question

Maybe It was done that way to use the barrel as a pilot. As far as long pins goes I have seen many of them over the years. I've seen a lot of of 3/8-10 that looked really long compared to others.
 
ashesffdp said:
View attachment 206429View attachment 206422another question about radial pin cues, i bought a custom cue this year with a radial pin, one of the first things i noticed with this cue was the joint pin it just didnt look right and i never have owned a radial pin cue, well with that said i asked the cue maker about the pin to figure out why it was so long, and i was told bill stroud himself told him to do it this way it would give the shaft extra strength, the pin protrudes out of the joint face 1 7/16 and the shaft depth is 1 11/16 and one other thing i order custom joint protectors and had to ask to have them 3/8 counterbored x 3/16 deep
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I heard that Bill Stroud helped develop the Radial Pin. Does he install his with the barrel partially exposed? Maybe it helps align the shaft?
 
I didn't read this entire thread well but I will share a few of my issues when I started. 1 does the tap that you use come to a point at the end?? I was told to grind the first inch of so off the tap so you can cut the proper thread all the way to the end of the hole. So your pin can get bound up bc the threads aren't deep enough at the end of the hole for the pin to be accepted cleanly. The threads at the end need to be the same at the threads in the middle. You can remedy this by drilling the hole deeper so the middle of the tap is deeper but IMO that is wrong. Hole should be as close to the pin size as possible.

2. I was having this problem with my brass insert. I was loading it up with too much epoxy and getting glue in the threads inside. So the pin wouldn't go in cleanly. Ran a tap thru the brass insert after everything is dry and it will clean out any glue that may have seeped Into the insert

Hope this helps
 
I am stupid!

I got a PM from a local and deleted contact info. Please reach out to me again?

SORRY!:shrug::help:
 
dave sutton said:
I didn't read this entire thread well but I will share a few of my issues when I started. 1 does the tap that you use come to a point at the end?? I was told to grind the first inch of so off the tap so you can cut the proper thread all the way to the end of the hole. So your pin can get bound up bc the threads aren't deep enough at the end of the hole for the pin to be accepted cleanly. The threads at the end need to be the same at the threads in the middle. You can remedy this by drilling the hole deeper so the middle of the tap is deeper but IMO that is wrong. Hole should be as close to the pin size as possible.

2. I was having this problem with my brass insert. I was loading it up with too much epoxy and getting glue in the threads inside. So the pin wouldn't go in cleanly. Ran a tap thru the brass insert after everything is dry and it will clean out any glue that may have seeped Into the insert

Hope this helps
Click to expand...

I avoid this now by inserting a small amount of a sponge ( Mr Clean of course ) at the end of the insert so when it does in, the glue will not enter the cavity where the threads are. I got tired of having to run the tap through to get rid of that excess glue. Works fine for me
 
Over the years I have taken multiple X-rays of Szambotis (Gus) and Balabushkas; both routinely had joint pin holes, in both the shaft AND the butt, that exceeded the pin length by a significant amount. Same with the "A" joint splice bolt.

In fact, one Szamboti had a joint-pin hole that was at least 3" deeper than the pin. length. If that was good enough for them...

TW
 
Thomas Wayne said:
Over the years I have taken multiple X-rays of Szambotis (Gus) and Balabushkas; both routinely had joint pin holes, in both the shaft AND the butt, that exceeded the pin length by a significant amount. Same with the "A" joint splice bolt.

In fact, one Szamboti had a joint-pin hole that was at least 3" deeper than the pin. length. If that was good enough for them...

TW
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I would think that had something to do with weight and balance of the individual cue? Just my thought.
 
FLYINGSNAIL said:
I would think that had something to do with weight and balance of the individual cue? Just my thought.
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Perhaps, but more on point to the original poster's question, the fact that legendary cuemakers Gus Szamboti and George Balabushka did not seem concerned with extra depth to a threaded pin hole might suggest that he need not be concerned with it either.

TW
 
Radial Pin Installation

ashesffdp said:
View attachment 206429View attachment 206422another question about radial pin cues, i bought a custom cue this year with a radial pin, one of the first things i noticed with this cue was the joint pin it just didnt look right and i never have owned a radial pin cue, well with that said i asked the cue maker about the pin to figure out why it was so long, and i was told bill stroud himself told him to do it this way it would give the shaft extra strength, the pin protrudes out of the joint face 1 7/16 and the shaft depth is 1 11/16 and one other thing i order custom joint protectors and had to ask to have them 3/8 counterbored x 3/16 deep[/QUO

J[SIZE="TE]
5[SIZE="5"]"To try to keep the record straight - Bill Stroud, to the very best of my knowledge, NEVER installed any RADIAL joint screw with the "unthreaded" aka "locating barrel portion" of the screw extending beyond the face of the joint . . . to do so would have been unnecessary and would complicate mating any after market shafts or joint protectors to the butt of the cue (imo) - exactly the problem you experienced.

SO, if someone out there has a Josswest cue made by Bill with this extended RADIAL pin at the face of the joint - I for one really want to see it . . . otherwise what we have is a CYA move by that maker.
[/SIZE][/SIZE]
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