Shaft Warpage and Construction

[iacas]

It seems likely to me that the following statement is, for the most part, true:

Solid-piece shafts are more likely to warp than a shaft (pie/laminate - not sure exactly what it's called) like the OB-1.

True? Or wrong?

My reasoning is that if you imagine any one piece of wood as having a predilection for warping in one direction when exposed to excessive moisture, etc. that the laminated/pie shafts would likely not have all those pieces of wood lined up in roughly the same direction.

 

[Purdman]

It seems likely to me that the following statement is, for the most part, true:

Solid-piece shafts are more likely to warp than a shaft (pie/laminate - not sure exactly what it's called) like the OB-1.

True? Or wrong?

My reasoning is that if you imagine any one piece of wood as having a predilection for warping in one direction when exposed to excessive moisture, etc. that the laminated/pie shafts would likely not have all those pieces of wood lined up in roughly the same direction.

You are correct, however, a solid-piece shaft feel better and weighs less due to the glue factor. I have never met a laminated shaft that I like.
Purdman

 

[Michael Webb]

There is no substitute for time, Whether it's laminated or not, I wish I could explain in detail but it would really get me in hot water, Which makes my response quite useless, BUT
THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE FOR TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[cueaddicts]

There is no substitute for time, Whether it's laminated or not, I wish I could explain in detail but it would really get me in hot water, Which makes my response quite useless, BUT
THERE IS NO SUBSTITUTE FOR TIME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Mike is right on here guys. Can't tell you how many cues I've seen with laminated shafts of all different configurations that are warped. Some were so badly warped that you would not believe. Also, some of the laminated shafts are way lighter than a good seasoned regular shaft, which leads me to believe that a lot of the outfits making them are simply using the junk wood that a cuemaker would simply throw out.

Just my $0.02.

Sean

 

[BLACKHEARTCUES]

Shaft Warpage

It seems likely to me that the following statement is, for the most part, true:

Solid-piece shafts are more likely to warp than a shaft (pie/laminate - not sure exactly what it's called) like the OB-1.

True? Or wrong?

My reasoning is that if you imagine any one piece of wood as having a predilection for warping in one direction when exposed to excessive moisture, etc. that the laminated/pie shafts would likely not have all those pieces of wood lined up in roughly the same direction.

When I bought my 1st flat laminated shaft blank, I wanted to see what kind of hit it was going to give me. I was so excited, that I turned it from a 1"dowel to 13mm shaft all in one turning. I thought all of those layers would keep it stable. IT WARPED. With solid Maple shafts I turn them 7 times. With the 20 layer flat laminated shafts, I can turn them 4 times & end up with a straight shaft. The flat laminated shafts DO resist warping better...JER

 

[Sheldon]

Time is a big factor, but even very old and very dry wood can warp. Anyone that has cut shafts from very old house cues can tell you that just because it's old, and has been around forever, does not mean it won't warp when you cut it.

 

[RBC]

The key is that there are two primary reasons why shafts warp.

The one most commonly talked about has to do with moisture content. When a cuemaker turns his shaft down in 7 stages over a long period of time, he is allowing the wood to stabilize it's moisture content between turnings. Wood will naturaly release moisture when you remove the surface layer of wood and expose the wood underneath. The longer you allow the wood to sit, the more stable the moisture content will become, and the less likely the shaft will be to warp.

The second reason shafts warp, and the one least discussed, is internal stress. Anyone who has cut a thin sliver of wood off of a larger long board and noticed that the thin piece looks like a sidewinder snake has witnessed this first hand. When the board was all together, all the stresses that push the board in different directions reached a point of equilibrium and the board was stable. Once you remove part of that stress, both pieces will again search for a new equilibrium.

Both of these factors must be taken into account if you want to build shafts that start straight and stay straight. Pie shaped laminated shafts are made out of pieces like that strip that you cut off of the board. (sidewinder) When assembled, each piece depends on the others to hold it straight and not let it equalize. Unfortunately, often times these pieces do equalize and the shaft moves. Flat laminated shafts are a little different. Moisture should not really be an issue because the veneers (what these shafts are made out of) dry very quickly because they are very thin. The moisture in this shaft should be stable, but that depends on the glue. Glues can induce stress in the shaft when the laminations are assembled into the board that they are cut from. If this shaft is turned many times, that stress can be removed, and the shaft should stay pretty straight.

With the OB-1, we are very careful about the glues that we use so as not to induce any stress. We also take each one of those segments or strips and we turn away the stress in them. This can only be done by turning them between centers and allowing the stress to release between turnings. Therefore, the six pieces that make up the shaft blank are stress relieved before they are assembled into the blank. They do not depend on each other to hold each other straight. They are all straight to start with. This leads to a much more stable shaft.

Royce Bunnell
Owen Bunnell Inc.
www.obcues.com

 

[cuebuilder]

I really believe that all wood will move to a certain degree. Time between operations will most definately help. I feel that a minimum of 4 weeks between operations is a definate must. Also taking too big of a cut will unduly stress the wood. (or release stress). the newly exposed surface wants to adjust itself to the surrounding climate and if too much cut is taken, it will most definately warp.
Handling of the wood is also important to get good results. In its square form, it should be stickered for several months before even making it octagon shaped. After the cutting off of the corners, it should be stickered again for several months. From this point, it takes me about 1 year to produce a shaft ready to be mated to a butt. During this time my shaft wood is stored by hanging by the tip end.
I've not tried any of the laminated shaft materials yet, but I'm sure the same care and time are required with them also.