sharpening your own lathe tools..

> Good stuff there,but nothing like having a 20 yr veteran Tool and Diemaker,and expert instructor show you exactly how,from how to maintain the grinder itself,the wheels,and proper technique for grinding rake and relief.

In the machining course I graduated from,you weren't allowed to even turn a lathe on until you had ground and been graded on a standard right-hand and left-hand turning tool,a 60 degree threading tool,a RH tool with a 1/8 radius,a 1/8 wide parting tool and a boring bar,all from 5/16 HSS blanks. Tommy D.
 
Tommy-D said:
> Good stuff there,but nothing like having a 20 yr veteran Tool and Diemaker,and expert instructor show you exactly how,from how to maintain the grinder itself,the wheels,and proper technique for grinding rake and relief.

In the machining course I graduated from,you weren't allowed to even turn a lathe on until you had ground and been graded on a standard right-hand and left-hand turning tool,a 60 degree threading tool,a RH tool with a 1/8 radius,a 1/8 wide parting tool and a boring bar,all from 5/16 HSS blanks. Tommy D.
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That sounds like work! I just turn the grinder on and make sparks till it looks good. After a test cut, I turn the grinder back off!
 
I'm all for making your own tools. I ordered some D2 tool steel last week, waiting for it to arrive. I'd be concerned with overheating the steel and losing the temper. Eventually I see myself picking up a Tormek T-7 www.tormek.com. I have often wondered what the cuemakers in this forum were using to sharpen their tools. Cheer
 
Monk Slayer said:
I'm all for making your own tools. I ordered some D2 tool steel last week, waiting for it to arrive. I'd be concerned with overheating the steel and losing the temper. Eventually I see myself picking up a Tormek T-7 www.tormek.com. I have often wondered what the cuemakers in this forum were using to sharpen their tools. Cheer
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If your grinding them free hand just keep a big cup of h2o handing and dip it every couple of seconds to keep it cool.
 
Monk Slayer said:
I'm all for making your own tools. I ordered some D2 tool steel last week, waiting for it to arrive. I'd be concerned with overheating the steel and losing the temper. Eventually I see myself picking up a Tormek T-7 www.tormek.com. I have often wondered what the cuemakers in this forum were using to sharpen their tools. Cheer
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The really good HSS have the ability to not loose their temper even at a dull red.
When grinding carbon steel tools, best results come from slow wet stone grinding. These are low speed/rpm sharepning stones that are kept wet.
They make horizontal and verical mounted wheels.Often in a fairly fine grit, about 150 to 220 grit.
You can also use a sulferised cutting oil with them like shell garcia 1 or 2. It seems that the wheel last longer for the same shape or profile. We also shape the wheels for specific jobs.When we do this ,the wheel shape or profile lasts longer than when water or water based coolant is used.
Neil
 
I was trimming an abs butt cap today when the cutter started to shred it.
I changed cutters and everything went ok. I thought, perfect opportunity to practice sharpening a tool bit. I have a wet and dry sharpener, when I was done, the tool bit looked more like a cut off tool. More to it than meets the eye, yes sir.
 
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