Shimmed Pockets

[TheBook]

I have a 9 ft Brunswick table. The corner pockets measure 5" at the opening across the points, there is a 1 3/4 ledge from the beginning of the point to the openning in the slate. The sides flare out at about a 11 degree angle. If the balls are not shot right on it is easy to rattle the pocket. Last week I was in a pool hall and shooting on a 9 ft Diamond table that had 4 1/2" pockets. The sides looked as if they were parallel to each other. Even though the opening was a 1/2" smaller the pockets seemed to be like a vacuum that sucked everthing in that got close to it. I thought that shimmed pockets were supposed to be harder but to me they were easier. I think that the lack of the flare out lets the balls drop in easier. Players that play on my table all comment on how great the table plays but are confused because they miss a lot of shots when the pockets seem to be so big.

What have you experienced? What do you think?

 

[mnShooter]

I play on these types of Brunswicks all the time. The pockets look big but play tight. When close to a rail the ball will bobble a lot more if it hits the rail first. Also a smoother/softer stroke makes balls drop easier. The angle of the pocket facings changes the center of the pocket and makes the pocket play a lot smaller.

I would rather play on a table that accepts the balls that hit the pocket no matter how hard they are hit. These pockets make you afraid to hit the ball with any speed because you have to be pinpoint accurate.

 

[TheBook]

Thanks for the reply. I thought it was just my imagination and might have been the way the pockets were shimmed.

It is deceiving. When watching the tournaments on TV they will bring up about how the pockets are smaller because they are shimmed to 4 1/2". I am thinking that it is hard enough to shoot with 5" and then to make the pockets 1/2" smaller is insane. Now it appears as if it is easier. I think I will leave my table the way it is and be at a advantage. It will help when playing on a shimmed table or when others come over to play.

 

[Flex]

I play on these types of Brunswicks all the time. The pockets look big but play tight. When close to a rail the ball will bobble a lot more if it hits the rail first. Also a smoother/softer stroke makes balls drop easier. The angle of the pocket facings changes the center of the pocket and makes the pocket play a lot smaller.

I would rather play on a table that accepts the balls that hit the pocket no matter how hard they are hit. These pockets make you afraid to hit the ball with any speed because you have to be pinpoint accurate.

I shoot on a Brunswick 9-footer that has pockets at are a bit tighter than the 5 inches you note, probably 4 3/4 inch pockets. They'll rattle the balls if you don't shoot them right, but being pinpoint is not really the issue. Balls shot rail first if shot at the proper speed will drop, no problem. Plus you can spin the balls in, smoking them down the rails, hit the pocket facing if the spin is right, and they go down like a shot of tequila...

Try spinning them in when shooting at speed.

Flex

 

[Gerry]

I play on these types of Brunswicks all the time. The pockets look big but play tight. When close to a rail the ball will bobble a lot more if it hits the rail first. Also a smoother/softer stroke makes balls drop easier. The angle of the pocket facings changes the center of the pocket and makes the pocket play a lot smaller.

I would rather play on a table that accepts the balls that hit the pocket no matter how hard they are hit. These pockets make you afraid to hit the ball with any speed because you have to be pinpoint accurate.

Well said!....My Crown was from the 2001 US Open and I had it parallel triple wedged. It was perfect for 1 pocket and accepted a well hit ball, but next table I get will be double shimmed. I feel I was getting apprehensive running balls because of the pockets. Maybe I"ll get it triple shimmed on one end for one pocket, and double at the other for 14.1

Gerry

 

[cuetechasaurus]

Pay attention to how the pockets are cut, that's all that matters. Some table mechanics seem to only pay attention to the size of the pockets instead of how they are cut. There are tables at the local poolhall that have HUGE pockets, but they are cut so poorly that balls literally will fly off the table even at medium-soft speeds if you hit the pocket. If you hit a ball near perfect down the rail at anything harder than soft, it won't go in. They are very annoying to play on if you are not used to them.

 

[SnakePool]

Look at the angle of the rails in comparison to the pocket, parallel or wide. If the rails sit wide at the pockets then a ball coming into that rail will be forced outward by the angle. A parallel pocket will force a ball in more times than not. IF I'm wrong correct me, I've been known to be wrong from time to time, just don't tell the other one in her chair in front of the TV, that I admitted that..