Shooting Polyurethane with touch up air gun

[Newton]

I have so far done shafts ''the manual'' way with brush and slow Rpm in my lathe.
However, it has started to get a little annoying and I'm planning a paint booth
setup where I'm considering shooting Polyurethane with a air gun.
Now this is just on custom shafts - not cues and I was wondering if any of you
have tried those small touch up guns which the guys painting graphics on
cars,bikes and you name it - uses? Those tiny things which they use to paint
sculls,flames and the rest?

The reason for asking is that I rarely mix a lot of clear and using Poly seems to
give me a OK finnish for shafts straight from the box without a ton of sanding
and buffing. I have so far just put 1-2 layers and they shine like any thing which suites
me just fine.

Did a CA last night and I can't stand it. I know Poly is not ''healthy'' but just adding
one or two layers in a vented paint booth could be something I can work with...

Any thoughts and comments are highly appreciated

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

Define poly....
If you're talking a two part auto clear , don't make the mistake some make and spend a bunch of money on something that is going to give sub par results. Go with a good hvlp jam gun (Sata mini is my pref) but there are a few brand names that will work and learn how to set it up and use it correctly. I'm not sure the clear coat will atomize correctly coming out of a small gun like you're thinking of using. Auto clear generally needs a larger sized opening to spray correctly. It's thicker than the colored finishes used for decorating things.
Just some of the things I've learned in my experiences.

 

[bdcues]

I use the Sata mini to spray 3 part automotive finish. Had to increase the amount of reducer to get a good spray but you can mix small quantities and have less waste.

Bob Danielson
www.bdcuesandcomix.com

 

[Newton]

Define poly....
If you're talking a two part auto clear , don't make the mistake some make and spend a bunch of money on something that is going to give sub par results. Go with a good hvlp jam gun (Sata mini is my pref) but there are a few brand names that will work and learn how to set it up and use it correctly. I'm not sure the clear coat will atomize correctly coming out of a small gun like you're thinking of using. Auto clear generally needs a larger sized opening to spray correctly. It's thicker than the colored finishes used for decorating things.
Just some of the things I've learned in my experiences.

Dave,

I thought Polyurethane was known but it might be that I just think out of the box:
Poly is the two component style clear used on teak and other boat stuff. It turns
very clear and has a nice finish from first layer. My idea was that if I shoot this
with a spray gun like attached I get a perfect coat without the hazel many of us
go through. I have not tried this on cues, but would do so soon.
The mini spray thing'ys has a large nozzle if I'm not mistaking big time - I have not
dismantled one yet.

Was just something I was considering. A full size gun would of course be the ''weapon''
on complete cues - but I was just wondering if one of those small ones with
Polyurethane would work.

K

 

[BarenbruggeCues]

Here's what I recommend. I know for sure without a shadow of a doubt this gun works and works very well. You should never have to buy another gun the rest of your cue building career. The gravity feed cup holds up to 5 oz and I have mixed as small as 1/2 oz for spraying joint caps or a couple shafts.
The little one you're referring to may or may not work. I can honestly say I have never talked to anyone using the smaller gun with or without success.
Good luck in your findings.

 

[BLACKHEARTCUES]

What you're thinking of is known here, in the usa as an "AIR BRUSH". I have used these to spray, in the 70's & 80's, for Flames & paintings on vans & motorcycles. I found it good for SMALL areas of color, but not spraying clear over my work. For clearcoat, on my cues I have always used a "touchup gun (also known as a "jam gun" in autobody shops). I spray Du pont chromeaclear HC- 7776s. This is a 4 part clear paint to 1 part hardener. It flows beautifully from these guns at 30# of pressure (at the gun). If done right, you can sand & polish in 2-3 hours after you spray. IT CAN NOT BE SPAYED IN YOUR BASEMENT, as it is a poison & you must have very good ventilation & facemask. Hope this helps...JER

 

[Newton]

Here's what I recommend. I know for sure without a shadow of a doubt this gun works and works very well. You should never have to buy another gun the rest of your cue building career. The gravity feed cup holds up to 5 oz and I have mixed as small as 1/2 oz for spraying joint caps or a couple shafts.
The little one you're referring to may or may not work. I can honestly say I have never talked to anyone using the smaller gun with or without success.
Good luck in your findings.

Dave,
Thanks for the tip.

When I think about it - it might be just stupid to buy two guns - one to shoot for
shafts and one for the whole thing. My thought was that I mix a 1/4 mix of clear
using syringe which hardly would show in one of those big ones - but I it's common sense to buy one of the larger ones for all. I was just wondering if I would knock my self in to trouble to use one with such a small mix and polyurethane...

K

 

[Paul Dayton]

I've used everything possible from spray cans, to air brushes, full size clear coat guns and detail guns. The air brush is better than cans but not by much. It's strong point is its ability to deliver very precisely, tiny amounts of paints for detailed picture effects. What we need of more volume than they deliver. For cues the detail guns like the Sata Mini jet or Devilbis are perfect for everything from a couple shafts to 10 cues with shafts. The gravity feed allows you to use really small amounts of finish and they don't require that much air.

A full size gun will cost a lot, use a lot more finish and not do a better or maybe even equal job.

 

[Newton]

I've used everything possible from spray cans, to air brushes, full size clear coat guns and detail guns. The air brush is better than cans but not by much. It's strong point is its ability to deliver very precisely, tiny amounts of paints for detailed picture effects. What we need of more volume than they deliver. For cues the detail guns like the Sata Mini jet or Devilbis are perfect for everything from a couple shafts to 10 cues with shafts. The gravity feed allows you to use really small amounts of finish and they don't require that much air.

A full size gun will cost a lot, use a lot more finish and not do a better or maybe even equal job.

The one pictured above is dead cheap - $60 and my brother in law is shooting
color on cars with Xact this gun.

Anyway, thanks for the feedback. Still not sure what to do, but I guess when Easter time
comes I would check it out.

Kent

 

[Newton]

What you're thinking of is known here, in the usa as an "AIR BRUSH". I have used these to spray, in the 70's & 80's, for Flames & paintings on vans & motorcycles. I found it good for SMALL areas of color, but not spraying clear over my work. For clearcoat, on my cues I have always used a "touchup gun (also known as a "jam gun" in autobody shops). I spray Du pont chromeaclear HC- 7776s. This is a 4 part clear paint to 1 part hardener. It flows beautifully from these guns at 30# of pressure (at the gun). If done right, you can sand & polish in 2-3 hours after you spray. IT CAN NOT BE SPAYED IN YOUR BASEMENT, as it is a poison & you must have very good ventilation & facemask. Hope this helps...JER

Thanks Jerry

I guess it's no point trying one of those airbrush for clear then. Polyurethane is a
two component mix which for sure is not recommended to breath in... But it could
be thinned out a little with a thinner so it might be that it could be blown on with
a air gun. I might try this out during Easter - that airbrush is really cheap so
it's no big thing if it don't work out. I guess I can start experimenting making
sculls, flames and other things for cues he he

Thanks
Kent