Shop Talk.

[dom_poppa]

Google is your friend. There are dozens of great wallet makers.

We have made a few wallets and purses and satchels for our good customers. We like to keep it limited to the customers who buy our cases. More personal and exclusive that way.



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Sorry but I googled before I asked you and it is not my friend.

I get directed to a lot of commercial sites. Not what I was looking for.

 

[dom_poppa]

I'm sure John can make you one.

I for one would LOVE an oil tan leather card holder/wallet to match my next case now that you mention it. That's a great idea.

I am a wallet guy. I normally carry Louis Vuitton but I rather give my money to a custom maker than a big company like LV, even though they make some great wallets. I don't want to purchase another LV and would rather help a maker.

 

[JB Cases]

Sorry but I googled before I asked you and it is not my friend.

I get directed to a lot of commercial sites. Not what I was looking for.

I can't help you then. As I said we make wallets for our clients on special request.

Try leatherworker.net or the various Facebook groups on leather.



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[The Renfro]

The walking foot is part of the feed mechanism. Most machines built or converted for leather stitching are triple feed machines, with smooth feet. There is an inner foot, outer foot and feed dogs. It helps move the material smoothly and evenly through the machine, and the smooth feet wont mark the top surface of the leather as much. You can sew VERY thin stuff on various machines, but anything over 2-3 oz leather should be sewn on a walking foot machine. Getting into machines is a whole different conversation, as there are a plethora of machines with different capacities and purposes.
A common machine saddle makers and others like is the juki 441 and its clones. Its a very heavy duty machine capable of sewing 3/4+ of firm leather. Overkill for a lot of purposes, but there are several holster makers who also like these machines. On the other end of the spectrum is something like the consew 206. A light to medium duty machine based on the flatbed platform. Excellent machine for light bag construction, wallets etc.
Chuck

Thanks for the added info Chuck... Maybe after shop talk has ran it's course a machine thread might be useful for those of us that are interested in all of the different subtleties that go into the process.. My GF and her daughter have been taking leather working classes and her daughter is a natural.. The GF on the other hand seems to have a knack for bags and stitching... They want to make wallets, bags and purses.. And maybe a case here and there... They had asked me to look into the different sewing machines and all I got to was a few youtube videos from a guy that likely makes better leather goods than videos =)

Chris

 

[RiverCity]

Thanks for the added info Chuck... Maybe after shop talk has ran it's course a machine thread might be useful for those of us that are interested in all of the different subtleties that go into the process.. My GF and her daughter have been taking leather working classes and her daughter is a natural.. The GF on the other hand seems to have a knack for bags and stitching... They want to make wallets, bags and purses.. And maybe a case here and there... They had asked me to look into the different sewing machines and all I got to was a few youtube videos from a guy that likely makes better leather goods than videos =)

Chris

Pm me what you are looking to do, and Ill point you in the right direction.
Chuck

 

[JB Cases]

Www.leatherworker.net is a great resource for sewing machine help. A lot of the folks there have done the testing for you. My advice is to check ebay for deals. Saw a transverse Juki there the other day for 3500 that I would love to have.



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[JB Cases]

I find it's vital to experiment. Here are some images of the various ones we have done. And this is just a fraction, I have carts full of experiments and prototypes. Whenever I have ideas or I see something I want to try I go and work it out and keep the results as a reference. Some of these things on this wall won't be used on a cue case for years if ever but we have the knowledge of them in case we want to do it.

Some makers like to specialize. They will settle on a few methods and get really good at those methods. That's fine too. If a cabinet maker decides that he will only do a certain period then that's his choice. My thought is that it doesn't hurt to be proficient or at least willing to try whatever the customer wants - most of the time.

That comes at a cost though. That cost is simply time. By being willing to be someone who will reach outside the box on every order you can't make as many orders without extra help. So find that balance. If you see something here just ask and I can show you what we have done to solve the problem and that might speed up your trial and error period.

 

[leto1776]

John, how difficult is it using exotic skins? For example, if I wanted a case made from an Alligator Gar (a fish with scales more similar to an actual gator than a regular case), is something like that a PIA to work with? I think the world's only alligator gar case would be awesome. Dibs!

 

[ROB.M]

Post

John, how difficult is it using exotic skins? For example, if I wanted a case made from an Alligator Gar (a fish with scales more similar to an actual gator than a regular case), is something like that a PIA to work with? I think the world's only alligator gar case would be awesome. Dibs!

-

Get in line!!! He's working on my whale ball skin case... That leather is tricky to harvest!!!





Rob.M

 

[JB Cases]

John, how difficult is it using exotic skins? For example, if I wanted a case made from an Alligator Gar (a fish with scales more similar to an actual gator than a regular case), is something like that a PIA to work with? I think the world's only alligator gar case would be awesome. Dibs!

For us the difficulty is access and not technical. We simply don't have any good supply of exotic leathers. The usa might actually have the best supply in the world. There are at least three or four dealers who specialize in exotics in the USA. And they are not interested in exporting what they worked hard to get into the USA.

My feeling us that if you can get it to me then I will find a way to make it into a case.



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[JB Cases]

Security you can't see.

Sometimes we need to put the handle and strap retainers over the seam. We do this when we have the type of case that has a single piece of leather wrapped around the tubing.

Here is a short video showing the blind hand sewing that we do to reinforce these areas after they have already been riveted invisibly.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dOldtf_mOBY

 

[Vahmurka]

that's a great thread. Thanks to John for showing how work is done and for the insight into world of a leatherman and a casemaker. Please continue sharing.