Short Splice vs. Half Splice

[cueaddicts]

We went full circle and were right back to the beginning...

My humble suggestion.....

how about full-splice and not full-splice ???


All kidding aside, this is a very interesting thread/topic. My experience is that there is a lot of confusion/misinformation out there amongst the buying public regarding this kind of terminology.

 

[TATE]

I have some pictures of Joels beautifull blanks, if someone would post them...JER

Here are Blackheart's photos of Hercek blanks - maybe he can post something about them. All I can say is - too cool!

 

[TATE]

My humble suggestion.....

how about full-splice and not full-splice ???


All kidding aside, this is a very interesting thread/topic. My experience is that there is a lot of confusion/misinformation out there amongst the buying public regarding this kind of terminology.

I was thinking more along the lines of one term: "pointy thingies".

 

[Deno J. Andrews]

I meant to say SHORT SPLICE & FULL SPLICE. I bought a SHORT SPLICE blank from Joel, many years ago, along with some FULL SPLICE blanks. I don't know if he still makes both or not...JER
P.S. I still have 2 of the full spliced blanks.

If the cues you are talking about are in the pictures that Tate posted, they are all full splices. Two of them have the additional butterfly splice, but it doesn't change the fact that all the points are a single piece of wood "spliced" into the forearm. Anything other than splicing a single piece of point wood into the forearm should be called inlay IMO, despite flat bottom or V-groove points, because there really isn't any "splicing" going on.

Deno Andrews

 

[Stellar1024]

Many people still fail to recognize the distinction between "squirt" & "deflection" despite years of arguing the difference.

What is the difference?

 

[slim123]

I know this is the "Ask the Cuemaker" section, but I'm not really asking. I'm making a statement based on my meager studies of the history of cuemaking.

I read on many forums, and I've heard from many cuemakers that I've interviewed using the term "short splice" and "half splice" almost interchangably. I do not think this is the correct.

In Burton Spain's "Making Blanks," he clearly calls the V-groove inlay technique that the majority of "spliced blank" cuemakers perform as the "half splice." It sort of makes sense since it's sort of a splice... semi splice... half splice.

Burton's "short blanks" were full spliced blanks using the finger splice technique, but it was shorter. It was 18" rather than 29". The purpose was for cuemakers to be able to balance the ebony short blanks rather than have a tremendously butt heavy cue.

So, when I read and write the term "short splice," I'm specifically talking about a short full-splilced blank. When I write "half-spliced," I'm specifically talking about the V-grooved angled inlay technique using separate pieces for each prong. It is what Burton refered to as "half-splice" and that has come to be the standard pointed forearm.

I suppose one could write "short full-splice" and "short half-splice," but there really isn't a "long half-spliced." So, IMO there's no such thing as "short half-splice."

I suppose this is the point I should ask for feedback. As an author, rather than a cuemaker, I'm more interested in keeping the history of the terminology consistent. Maybe this helps both cuemakers and collectors on the same page.

Fred

A short half splice would be the inverted splice on a butt sleeve. It could be a finger type splice or a half splice
Also, a long half splice is also possible, probably not over 10 inches on a lathe. I could go pretty long, on another machine, except the points might be thin.

 

[Michael Webb]

A short half splice would be the inverted splice on a butt sleeve. It could be a finger type splice or a half splice
Also, a long half splice is also possible, probably not over 10 inches on a lathe. I could go pretty long, on another machine, except the points might be thin.

Points cut on lathe.
Hmmmm
You have my attention.
Elaborate Please
Samples???

 

[slim123]

Points cut on lathe.
Hmmmm
You have my attention.
Elaborate Please
Samples???

Mike, you put me in that direction, because my cnc wasn't up and running. I figured i had to learn to cut points , the hard way first. I've been away from my shop for a small period, people passing, friends, family etc. However, i think i have the theory in my pocket, so to say. I will show soon. Thanks for all of your help, i'll need more. I'm an old dog, learning new tricks to keep my mind busy in my retitrement
Life is short make it sweet, don't stress and don't disagree with anyone, but help them see a better way, one that works

 

[Hard Knock Cues]

Points cut on lathe.
Hmmmm
You have my attention.
Elaborate Please
Samples???

I don't have a cnc so I use my lathe.

V- bit in my router mounted on the carriage. I can use the index pin on the headstock to set the spacing. The forearm is partially cored with a 5/8"dowel sticking out long enough to clamp in my chuck and leave space so the router doesn't run into the chuck.

 

[Michael Webb]

I don't have a cnc so I use my lathe.

V- bit in my router mounted on the carriage. I can use the index pin on the headstock to set the spacing. The forearm is partially cored with a 5/8"dowel sticking out long enough to clamp in my chuck and leave space so the router doesn't run into the chuck.

I use my lathe too. Clean cut channels and sharp cornered wood goes a long way.
The only way no matter what you use!

 

[Michael Webb]

Mike, you put me in that direction, because my cnc wasn't up and running. I figured i had to learn to cut points , the hard way first. I've been away from my shop for a small period, people passing, friends, family etc. However, i think i have the theory in my pocket, so to say. I will show soon. Thanks for all of your help, i'll need more. I'm an old dog, learning new tricks to keep my mind busy in my retitrement
Life is short make it sweet, don't stress and don't disagree with anyone, but help them see a better way, one that works

To answer your other question.
I use a 1/2" Porter cable router. I had the holder built and prefer 1/2" shanked Vee bits. They are more stable than the 1/4" shanked bits.
As soon as my Vee bits come in. I send them to my Grinder person to work. I don't assume the angle is correct from the Factory, I want to know for sure. The extra expense is worth it to me. My first cuts are usually 7 to 8 inches long with no chatter.
The 2 most important quotes by 2 Cue makers I have respect for,
1st-
If you can define what your trying to do and transfer that into reality. You can achieve results!
2nd-
Just because someone doesn't know how to do something, DOESN'T mean it can't be done!!!
Good luck!