Shorter Stroke

D

DrCue'sProtege

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
do any of you posters out there use a shorter stroke at times? seems like when i saw Allen Hopkins play that he might have a shorter stroke, not sure?

i have been using a shorter stroke when i have straight in shots, or a tough cut shot. it seems to be working fairly well too. however, on draw shots, i dont think the shorter stroke will get the job done.

last night when i had a tough cut shot down the long rail, i took my time, aimed it up, aligned and stepped into the shot, used a shorter stroke, and pocketed the ball. and, of course, guess what? the cue ball rolled over and barely grazed another ball, and left me no shot on the next ball. it was just a tough situation, i was hoping for better results, and, of course, all i got was a bad result.

DCP
 
DrCue'sProtege said:
do any of you posters out there use a shorter stroke at times? seems like when i saw Allen Hopkins play that he might have a shorter stroke, not sure?

i have been using a shorter stroke when i have straight in shots, or a tough cut shot. it seems to be working fairly well too. however, on draw shots, i dont think the shorter stroke will get the job done.
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DrCue'sProtege, Allen Hopkins, indeed, does have a unique style, kind of a short punchy stroke, and he is a world-class champion, one that should be in the Hall of Fame.

I have seen some old-school players who one-stroke the ball, and it works for them, and then there's the unorthodox side-arm stroke which is only seen in a minority. Different strokes for different folks, as they say! ;)

There are some current young pros today who have only one stroke, and though they do execute their shots with a high ratio of success, I think their capabilities are limited.

What makes a good player IMO is when he/she is able to adapt their style of play, depending on the shot. For instance, when you are going to follow a ball and it's a long shot, one tip is to LENGTHEN your stroke.

What separates the good from the best is being able to recognize when to adjust your stroke to the shot, whether short or long. These are just my observations as a railbird, and I hope it helps a little. :p

JAM
 
It depends on what you call short. I teach my students to bridge between 8-10", with some practice you can draw just as well and you have much less wobble in the stroke as well.
 
DrCue'sProtege said:
do any of you posters out there use a shorter stroke at times? seems like when i saw Allen Hopkins play that he might have a shorter stroke, not sure?

i have been using a shorter stroke when i have straight in shots, or a tough cut shot. it seems to be working fairly well too. however, on draw shots, i dont think the shorter stroke will get the job done.

last night when i had a tough cut shot down the long rail, i took my time, aimed it up, aligned and stepped into the shot, used a shorter stroke, and pocketed the ball. and, of course, guess what? the cue ball rolled over and barely grazed another ball, and left me no shot on the next ball. it was just a tough situation, i was hoping for better results, and, of course, all i got was a bad result.

DCP
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My general rule is the longer the shot the shorter the stroke. I know I'm really don't like it when I have a long shot that I think I need to take a longer stroke on to get something going with the cue ball.
 
CaptainJR said:
My general rule is the longer the shot the shorter the stroke. I know I'm really don't like it when I have a long shot that I think I need to take a longer stroke on to get something going with the cue ball.
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I should add, if possible, the shorter the stoke the closer my bridge hand is to the cue ball. That could have been taken for granted, but I thought I'd say it anyway.
 
just like Jam said, i use a different stroke for different types of shots. i use a different grip for different types of shots just like i use a different bridge for different type of shots. Dont limit yourself.
 
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DrCue'sProtege said:
(snip some good thinking)
of course, all i got was a bad result.

DCP
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"Of course"...really? Be careful what you decide to believe about reality...it might just be true for you.

Short strokes have their place. nip shots, soft shots, etc.

Get a lesson from Scott Lee....he has some nice moves with short strokes. He travels and, I'll bet, will be close to you in the near future.

Jeff Livingston
 
DrCue'sProtege said:
do any of you posters out there use a shorter stroke at times? seems like when i saw Allen Hopkins play that he might have a shorter stroke, not sure?

i have been using a shorter stroke when i have straight in shots, or a tough cut shot. it seems to be working fairly well too. however, on draw shots, i dont think the shorter stroke will get the job done.

last night when i had a tough cut shot down the long rail, i took my time, aimed it up, aligned and stepped into the shot, used a shorter stroke, and pocketed the ball. and, of course, guess what? the cue ball rolled over and barely grazed another ball, and left me no shot on the next ball. it was just a tough situation, i was hoping for better results, and, of course, all i got was a bad result.

DCP
Click to expand...

My personal technique is as follows:

The "bridge length" or distance between my bridge hand to the cue ball varies depending on the distance of the cue ball to the object ball. If the object ball is closer to the cue ball I don't use as much "bridge length". If it's further away, I give myself more distance.

Now, on the amount of stroke...some great players have used a short stroke. I would classify mine as somewhat short. You're going to line up the shot the same. You probably "will" have more accuracy with a shorter stroke. The only thing you're going to change depending on the cue ball reaction you need is the amount/type of follow through. If you're executing your follow through properly you can draw the ball all you want. The short strokes the "line up" the shot are really inconsequential. The only thing that "counts" is the execution of the follow through....at least from my experience.

I hope this makes sense.
 
DrCue'sProtege said:
any idea when this Mr. Scott Lee will be in the southern Indiana area?

DCP
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His email is:

>>>>>>poolology@aol.com<<<<<<<<

He said a few months ago that he's gonna be around here this summer as I'm going to take a refresher lesson to make sure I'm not doing something stupid that I don't know about...and to add some new things, too, I suppose.

Tell him I sent you.

Jeff Livingston
 
CaptainJR said:
I should add, if possible, the shorter the stoke the closer my bridge hand is to the cue ball. That could have been taken for granted, but I thought I'd say it anyway.
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I agree, I have long fluid stroke, but when i do have a short stroke my bridge hand is closer to the cueball too. Cole 'TheConArtist'
 
TheConArtist said:
I agree, I have long fluid stroke, but when i do have a short stroke my bridge hand is closer to the cueball too. Cole 'TheConArtist'
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if it works for u .When let it work all the time for u .Thats how u play ..pocket balls .be it short or long strokes...
 
The reason that you see longer bridges is because the players that use them are shorter and are using 59" cues. They do not have the wingspan to be able to grip behind the balance point and reach any closer to the tip.

It is further explained on this link
http://www.freepoollessons.com/cue4u.shtml
 
TheBook said:
The reason that you see longer bridges is because the players that use them are shorter and are using 59" cues. They do not have the wingspan to be able to grip behind the balance point and reach any closer to the tip.

It is further explained on this link
http://www.freepoollessons.com/cue4u.shtml
Click to expand...

The grip doesn't *have* to go behind the balance point on every shot. What you want to achieve is this: When you are lined up on the shot, you want your arm that grips the cue to form a 90 degree angle from the shoulder to the elbow to the wrist (to clarify, it will form the 90 degree angle at the point where your tip is *almost* touching the cue ball). This will dictate where you "grip" the cue and this will change upon each shot, period. Of course your size/build comes into play as well. Some players like to choke up as it gives you more control...you'll just have to find out what works best for you. I like to choke up as well...but fundamentally the 90 degree rule is a great starting point. Just wanted to make the point that there is no *set* place where you have to grip the cue.
 
Normal stroke length

is 6-8" behind the ferrule. If you have watched someone with a stroke
longer than that, you will notice they tend to cue the cueball when stroking
higher than they actually hit it, thereby 'dipping' somewhat on the hit stroke.

This type of stroke will also cause unexplained misses at times because
where you are hitting the cueball is not where you started aiming on the cueball.

I have a friend that is real good, and it drives many people crazy to watch
him because it always looks like he is stroking the cueball with upper right
english, but when he hits the cueball, it is with the proper english. It is
somewhat of an abnomally, but it seems to work for him. Just don't sit or stand
directly behind him .....it will drive you nuts .... lol

Most of the average shooters problems usually stem from an improper form
which causes the person to make adjustments just to halfway hit the cueball
correctly, but these 'concocted' styles of play usually breakdown over time.
One thing a seasoned player will evaluate in a possible opponent is their form and stroke, whether it is proper or not. If it is not, it gives him a heads
up that that opponent will breakdown on certain shots or over playing a long
time. For instance, a person that stands in a crouching position with both
legs bent, and their back curved (ever try to stand with both legs bent and bend at the waist with your back straight - it is not comfortable or something
you would like to do for a long time). Their legs will get tired over time, their back will hurt and be achy, and they will miss shots because of it.

If you wantto be a serious player or just a good player, then take time to
do research into the proper way to learn the sport, and pursue it in the right way. Special note to women: Girls, If a billiard room doesn't have your
boyfriend or husband rated a 7 or above on a 2-12 9 ball scale, they are
not qualified to teach you the game. They simply do not have enough
knowledge and expertise to be your mentor for the sport. Instead take
lessons from a qualified instructor, at least initially, so you will start out
the right way, and with the proper form. Your guy may be a great guy,
but that doesn't mean he is an expert in everything he does.
 
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