should I try a Meucci The Pro 12.5mm (maple) if I haven't liked other LD shafts (many)?

There might be another hybrid carbon-fiber and maple wood shaft ---- the FUZE shaft. The word carbon is in their names but where's the carbon?

The company describes the FUZE shafts as having carbon fiber:
Carbon Fiber InFUZED Technology combines carbon fiber and wood to minimize deflection and provide players with maximum feedback, allowing for precise cue ball control and consistent shot-making.​

There is no figure, however, describing the carbon and maple components. The FUZE kielwood is described as having the "playability and consistency of carbon fiber shaft technology", but a, Where's the carbon?

A FUZE figure describes the ferrule but I don't think there is carbon fiber there unless its inside the ferrule?:


Shaft Fuze figure.jpg
 
There might be another hybrid carbon-fiber and maple wood shaft ---- the FUZE shaft. The word carbon is in their names but where's the carbon?

The company describes the FUZE shafts as having carbon fiber:
Carbon Fiber InFUZED Technology combines carbon fiber and wood to minimize deflection and provide players with maximum feedback, allowing for precise cue ball control and consistent shot-making.​

There is no figure, however, describing the carbon and maple components. The FUZE kielwood is described as having the "playability and consistency of carbon fiber shaft technology", but a, Where's the carbon?

A FUZE figure describes the ferrule but I don't think there is carbon fiber there unless its inside the ferrule?:


View attachment 778122
Email Cue and Case and ask them. I'm guessing there's a cf rod in the center like a Mezz/Fury shafts.
 
There might be another hybrid carbon-fiber and maple wood shaft ---- the FUZE shaft. The word carbon is in their names but where's the carbon?

The company describes the FUZE shafts as having carbon fiber:
Carbon Fiber InFUZED Technology combines carbon fiber and wood to minimize deflection and provide players with maximum feedback, allowing for precise cue ball control and consistent shot-making.​

There is no figure, however, describing the carbon and maple components. The FUZE kielwood is described as having the "playability and consistency of carbon fiber shaft technology", but a, Where's the carbon?

A FUZE figure describes the ferrule but I don't think there is carbon fiber there unless its inside the ferrule?:


View attachment 778122

McDermott also has a line of maple shafts with carbon fiber cores.
 
I now have two Kielwood shafts. I need one more (3/8x11 flat faced) and then I’ll have a shaft for all 6 cues in my case.
Both of the shafts I have play fantastic. The shafts are described as LD. I made sure I got heavier shafts that took awhile

I wish I had these shafts in my prime but that was 40-45 years ago long before this process was even being used.
Both shafts are exceptionally stiff and despite not have the features I so much prefer, like ivory ferrules, the results
can’t be argued. I move and control the cue ball much better using these torrified maple wood shafts but I also made
it a point to locate Kielwood shafts that had the identical specs as the original maple shafts I was going to replace.

I can’t say for sure how much that mattered but I did not care for any of the Kielwood shafts I previously tried, all of
which were much lighter than any of my cue’s original maple shafts that average >20% of the cue’s playing weight.
That’s a rule that has never disappointed me with any pool cue I purchased from someone or had a cue maker build.
I followed that buying my 1st Kielwood shaft. It worked out so great that I just got another Kielwood shaft last week.
If you don't mind my asking, what "brand" of KW shaft are you using?
 
If you don't mind my asking, what "brand" of KW shaft are you using?
The RMS shaft (3.8 ozs) I bought from Martin@Superior Cues, is a Cory Barnhart version.
He has a F/S thread with 4 Kielwood shafts (radial joint) and several maple shafts as well.

Since Cory is not licensed, or whatever the term might be, to refer to his roasted maple shafts
as Kielwood, despite that it is exactly what the torrification process is that produces Kielwood.

As I recall, the wts. of the shafts are 3.85, 3.82, 3.80 and 3.65 ozs. and all are radial joints since
it’s the only style shaft Cory makes, for reasons of his own. The 4 shafts are 12.85 mm w/pro taper.

The shaft I got plays better than any maple shaft I have. I wish it had been 4.0 ozs, or heavier. But I haven’t
given up. It’s hard to find heavy flat faced Kielwood shafts. Piloted shafts use a brass receiver adding 1/3 oz.
 
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The RMS shaft (3.8 ozs) I bought from Martin@Superior Cues, is a Cory Barnhart version.
He has a F/S thread with 4 Kielwood shafts (radial joint) and several maple shafts as well.

Since Cory is not licensed, or whatever the term might be, to refer to his roasted maple shafts
as Kielwood, despite that it is exactly what the torrification process is that produces Kielwood.

As I recall, the wts. of the shafts are 3.85, 3.82, 3.80 and 3.65 ozs. and all are radial joints since
it’s the only style shaft Cory makes, for reasons of his own. The 4 shafts are 12.85 mm w/pro taper.

The shaft I got plays better than any maple shaft I have. I wish it had been 4.0 ozs, or heavier. But I haven’t
given up. It’s hard to find heavy flat faced Kielwood shafts. Piloted shafts use a brass receiver adding 1/3 oz.
Thank you. 👍
 
Im not saying don’t but it seems obvious you like what you like.

A frIend who changed over to a carbon fiber shaft in the spring and just changed back to maple and it made sense. He always seemed like he was forcing himself to like it. Carbon fiber and ld shafts period have a different hit and I don’t thing anything that ld shafts do will make your game better if at it’s heart it doesn’t feel good to you. Confidence is everything and if it doesn’t give you that it isn’t for you and that’s ok.
 
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The FUZE kielwood is described as having the "playability and consistency of carbon fiber shaft technology", but a, Where's the carbon?
“The carbon fiber runs through the shaft itself,” wrote Valerie Edlund, Customer Account Specialist at CueandCase, one of the biggest billiards manufacturers and distributors worldwide when asked where the carbon fiber was. It is not like I wondered as being within the ferrule. Perhaps Cue and Case can improve their figure sometime:

Shaft Fuze figure.jpg


 
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“The carbon fiber runs through the shaft itself,” wrote Valerie Edlund, Customer Account Specialist at CueandCase, one of the biggest billiards manufacturers and distributors worldwide when asked where the carbon fiber was. It is not like I wondered as being within the ferrule. Perhaps Cue and Case can improve their figure sometime:

View attachment 778337

These shafts have same under ferrule material(the red toned stuff) as the Lucasi and PureX shafts. No big surprise as all are made in same factory.
 
The real question is how much of a shot did you give these LD shafts? The longer/Better that you played effects the adjustment time going from wood to LD.

When i switched to LD i wasn't playing very long or playing that well and their was really no change for me. When i was talking with Danny Basavitch when he was at his peak he said it took him two weeks to adjust.
 
The RMS shaft (3.8 ozs) I bought from Martin@Superior Cues, is a Cory Barnhart version.
He has a F/S thread with 4 Kielwood shafts (radial joint) and several maple shafts as well.

Since Cory is not licensed, or whatever the term might be, to refer to his roasted maple shafts
as Kielwood, despite that it is exactly what the torrification process is that produces Kielwood.

As I recall, the wts. of the shafts are 3.85, 3.82, 3.80 and 3.65 ozs. and all are radial joints since
it’s the only style shaft Cory makes, for reasons of his own. The 4 shafts are 12.85 mm w/pro taper.

The shaft I got plays better than any maple shaft I have. I wish it had been 4.0 ozs, or heavier. But I haven’t
given up. It’s hard to find heavy flat faced Kielwood shafts. Piloted shafts use a brass receiver adding 1/3 oz.
Pretty simple to add up to .3 oz to a radial or 3/8-10 wood shaft if you have a cue lathe. Use a short piece of 5/16x14 pin at the joint end.
 
Pretty simple to add up to .3 oz to a radial or 3/8-10 wood shaft if you have a cue lathe. Use a short piece of 5/16x14 pin at the joint end.
My friend tried that by using a headless bolt but it actually changes the resonance versus having that much added
wood. It certainly is improvising to achieve the desired weight but having the right piece of maple wood to start with
is the correct way. It’s what cue makers do to deliver a cue butt weight the customer specified or to fulfill the playing
weight of the cue. It’s not necessarily a bad thing as long as the weight bolt can be positioned within the cue butt
and is relatively small and light as far as weight bolt goes. If you start adding 1/2 oz or more, the cue maker missed
the butt’s target weight. The 6 cues in my case have the same butt weight (14.5 - 14.6 ozs) and 3 cues do not have
any weight bolt. That’s why the joints are flat faced ivory……just a pin without any receiver in the shaft. Anyway, all
the cue shafts are flat face without any metal. I passed up adding a metal weight months ago to achieve the desired
weight of a Kielwood cue shaft. That’s not the way you manufacture a cue shaft but it is certainly does add weight.

The answer is simple. There is a established track record on how much a maple cue shaft loses weight after being kiln roasted into a Kielwood shaft which is always lighter afterward. There are cue makers still fabricating cue with maple shafts weighIng in the mid-4 ozs. All you need is old growth wood that has the density and has dried for years which the cue maker would have otherwise used to produce a flat face 4.3 - 4.5 oz. shaft. And 3.9 ozs. would okay too but nothing any lighter.

Thanks for the suggestion but a cue maker suggested that a few months and I declined. It has to be just an all wood shaft weight, plus the ferrule and tip of course. I’ll keep looking or else stick with my orig. shafts. At least my Scruggs cue has a Kielwood shaft & plays great. Absolutely, if money is on the line, it’s my chosen cue to play with.
 
Here are the LD shafts I've tried:
  • Predator Z3 (standard taper and S tuned to long pro taper) with factory tip
  • Predator 314 (standard taper and S tuned to long pro taper) with factory tip
  • Predator 314-2 (standard taper) with factory tip
  • OB Pro+ (standard taper) with factory tip
  • Paul Allers carbon fiber build 12.4mm with soft G2 tip
If you took less than 3 years doing this "analysis" you have changed too many times and too soon--never giving yourself time to adjust to the shaft.

I noticed that it took a solid 6 months to adjust from a 314-1 to a Z2 and another 4 months to adjust from the Z2 to a Z2-S-tuned; that second transition should have hardly been noticeable, but it was a much bigger transition that anyone anticipated.

I could make "the easy ones" first minute, but the tricky ones in the heat of battle always failed until I had every muscle in my body knowing what that <particular> shaft was going to do.

So. pick a shaft and stick with it for 6-12 months and see if you ever fully get used to it.
 
As far as trying something other than just WOOD or just CARBON FIBER, there is a cue not mentioned above that is neither just CF or wood:
Cuetec's AVID Chroma cues for $230 made of WOOD and GLASS-bonded (fiberglass?) to wood.

Maybe this is what poster sbrownn is looking for......

Cuetec Avid chroma cue.jpg
 
I suppose when Cuetec states that the wood is kiln-dried, vacuum sealed maple wood, it is not kielwood or torriefied wood:

Cuetec 23-CT-AVID-Proof-Group-Photo-3.jpg
 
Should I try a Meucci The Pro 12.5mm solid maple shaft or does it play like the top list I provided with too many transitional adjustments necessary? Anyone have a used one or new one that they can sell me with a trial period and return policy?
Its probably a small thing such as affecting the sound of the hit but the Meucci Carbon Pro shaft differs from other CF shafts in that the CF core is plugged with maple at both ends. It is, also like some other CF shafts, filled with polyurethan foam. Does this make the shaft different appreciably from other CF shafts or could it reduce the transitional adjusments you need?

 
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