simonis cloth and video

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ohmike

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getting ready to install 860 hr on my brunswick anniversary table..i found out it has a 10 in long y shaped crack radiating off 1 of the locating pins..not a real bad crack but i would like to fix it now if needed.should i grind it out a little and superglue then level with bondo? or just leave it alone? also for anyone that has watched the simonis video is there any up dates or something you would change in the way they do stapled bed cloth..if i glue the slate together with the index cards and superglue and with them being pinned will i be able to seperate them in the future? really looking forward to some playtime on decent felt....thanks for any help
 
Not trying to be rude, but how you're asking this stuff looks like you don't know what's up. Might be wrong but that's how it sounds.

These Pro Mechanics can't help under these circumstances.

You need to hire a pro to make your table play right.
 
i guess i should have posted a few pics of the crack..does not go thru the slate ....just the top half above the pin.. like someone lifted instead of pulling back first.its hardly noticeable. i just do not want it to be a problem later.i bought the the simonis video..great info.. very informative..i have not done much work on pool tables but i do high end carpentry work and restore early ford broncos ..got the tools and some skill just want it right
 
I am NOT a mechanic so someone else more qualified will weigh in. That said, if the crack has not opened and does not go through I would apply Loctite thin superglue to the crack. It is very fluid, almost like water, and should sink down into the crack. I'd pour enough in to fill the crack then scrape off any bead of glue that stands proud of the surface. This should stabilize the crack. I'd fix it now, rather than wait for the crack to propagate all the way through the slate and then be faced with a more difficult fix later. I fixed a throughgoing crack in my slate using this method and it worked great. All credit goes to RKC for teaching me this method:

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=182188&highlight=soup+cans

Also, if you have pinned slates, do you need to glue the slates together? I was under the impression that gluing primarily helps with vertical motion of the slates at the seams, which is not really an issue with pinned slates, but I certainly could be wrong. My GC 1 pinned slates are not glued, and so far the seams have stayed tight.
 
tjohnson said:
I am NOT a mechanic so someone else more qualified will weigh in. That said, if the crack has not opened and does not go through I would apply Loctite thin superglue to the crack. It is very fluid, almost like water, and should sink down into the crack. I'd pour enough in to fill the crack then scrape off any bead of glue that stands proud of the surface. This should stabilize the crack. I'd fix it now, rather than wait for the crack to propagate all the way through the slate and then be faced with a more difficult fix later. I fixed a throughgoing crack in my slate using this method and it worked great. All credit goes to RKC for teaching me this method:

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=182188&highlight=soup+cans

Also, if you have pinned slates, do you need to glue the slates together? I was under the impression that gluing primarily helps with vertical motion of the slates at the seams, which is not really an issue with pinned slates, but I certainly could be wrong. My GC 1 pinned slates are not glued, and so far the seams have stayed tight.
Click to expand...
Pinned slates don't need to be glued together unless they don't match up at the seams in which case the pins need to be removed and treated like non-pinned' slates.
 
super glue "pins"

I'm not a table mechanic myself, but I like what tjohnson said: superglue the radiating cracks with thin superglue to reduce the probability of further fractures. I would also add the cardstock/superglue "pin" at the location of the problem pin to additionally stabilize the area.
As for the cardstock/superglue type of pin mentioned, I wouldn't fret about future disassembly. In this kind of application I think the superglue "pins" have their greatest strength in shear whereas when you disassemble the slates in the future you will be putting the joint in tension at which point the cardstock will separate with little resistance. That's the theory, anyway. Like anything, "your mileage may vary."
 
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