Slate backing

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lights_out

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
I tried to search for help with this but to not avail. I have a CL Bailey table with 1 inch slate that I am pretty happy with for now, until I break the bank and go for my Diamond Smart Table :D . Anyway, the slate is directly on the frame of the table with no wood backing and the cloth is glued to the slate. I've already re-clothed the table once and it's due for another soon. I'm wondering if anyone has successfully disassembled their table and added wood backing under their slate? Is it worth the time and effort or should I continue to glue the cloth directly to the slate? If it is feasible, what kind of wood do I use? I'm pretty handy and have already planned in my mind the fitting, routing, securing, etc. What do you think?

I also want to shim the pockets. Does this mean just adding pocket facings until I get the opening size I want?

Thanks in advance for you help.
 
lights_out said:
I'm wondering if anyone has successfully disassembled their table and added wood backing under their slate? Is it worth the time and effort or should I continue to glue the cloth directly to the slate?
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Seems like a lot of trouble to go thru for what gain? Personally I'd just continue to glue the cloth to the slate edges.

Doubling or tripling up on cushion facings is not the professional way to reduce pocket size. Realkingcobra had some images posted here on the proper way to go about this so possibly he or someone else can refer you to that posting. In essence you cut and attach wooden extensions to lengthen the rail then use just 1 rubber facing per rail end.
 
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I not familiar with the bailey table but it probably wasn't designed to have a slate liner. addding a slate liner will make your playing field too high.
 
Dartman said:
Seems like a lot of trouble to go thru for what gain? Personally I'd just continue to glue the cloth to the slate edges.

Doubling or tripling up on cushion facings is not the professional way to reduce pocket size. Realkingcobra had some images posted here on the proper way to go about this so possibly he or someone else can refer you to that posting. In essence you cut and attach wooden extensions to lengthen the rail then use just 1 rubber facing per rail end.
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I was thinking to do this so I wouldn't have to use the messy spray glue as I did the last time. Also, the Simonis 860 I recovered my table with last time has either come unglued in certain spots or stretched (which is unbelievable because I stretched it pretty tight) to the point that I had to reattach it. I would think staples would be more secure and less likely to allow the cloth to come loose, and if it did, easier to reattach. Thanks for the info on the pocket facings, I'll do a search for that thread.
 
sdbilliards said:
I not familiar with the bailey table but it probably wasn't designed to have a slate liner. addding a slate liner will make your playing field too high.
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CL Bailey tables are made in Montana, I think. Pretty well made table with good rails and slate. Consumer Reports rated them a "Best Buy" for quality for the dollar. I'm not sure if it was designed to have a slate liner but I looked around under the table and frame and thought it would be do-able to add a liner, then slate, use a router to cut the liner along the slate edges and pockets, then drill out the bolt holes. If the table rises by 3/4" to an inch, I could live with that.
 
lights_out said:
CL Bailey tables are made in Montana, I think. Pretty well made table with good rails and slate. Consumer Reports rated them a "Best Buy" for quality for the dollar. I'm not sure if it was designed to have a slate liner but I looked around under the table and frame and thought it would be do-able to add a liner, then slate, use a router to cut the liner along the slate edges and pockets, then drill out the bolt holes. If the table rises by 3/4" to an inch, I could live with that.
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CL Bailey's "were" made in Missouri; not far from where AMF Playmaster and Renaissance were made in Bland, MO. Chuck Bailey started Playmaster and then eventually sold out to AMF. After a 7 year non-compete agreement expired (alomost to the day), he introduced his new line along with Fisher's and with his son at his side. They do make a well constructed table but, were lacking that floating nut plate that most mfg's are using now. If you do add the liner underneath and do not compensate for the rail bolts and washers, you will more than likely need to go with a longer rail bolt. If you use a spade bit to "open" up the liners at each rail bolt hole location, you wouldn't need the longer bolt. It will raise the playing surface, but only the thickness of your liner. I wouldn't think you would even notice.

All that said, it's quite allot of work to go thru for the sake of using staples. But hey, it's your table right?!?!?!?

Good luck!!
 
Cloth didn't hold sounds like 3M-76 or something other then 3M Super 77 or 3M Super 90 which are the 2 preferable products when using spray adhesive. I've never had a problem with either. Then again I spray both the cloth and the slate which makes for a stronger bond (just like the can says).

To reduce the "messy" factor in installing cloth to slate use a piece of cardboard on top as a shield to prevent unwanted overspray. You can also mask off the table under the slate with some newspaper and tape. Only takes a few minutes but you won't have any overspray to clean up on the finished area of the table.


BTW - CL Bailey tables are made in Missouri. The Fishers are imports.
 
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Lots of good info, thanks. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna do it though. No one has answered one part of my question though, what do I use for backing? I've heard poplar is a good choice. Would osb work?
 
lights_out said:
Lots of good info, thanks. I'm pretty sure I'm gonna do it though. No one has answered one part of my question though, what do I use for backing? I've heard poplar is a good choice. Would osb work?
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Ash, poplar or maple should work equally well. Many table rails are maple.
 
I would recommend using 3/4" MDF (MDF, not particleboard) for the following reasons:

- Cheap ($22.50 at Home Depot for 4 x 8' sheet)
- It has very uniform thickness and surface is smooth
- No seams, single sheet
- Will not compress significantly, hard surface
- Machines very cleanly

Downside:
- does not take staples as well as wood, but does take them adequately
- Only as true as the frame you put it on
- There will be significant wear on your router bit. This small project could eat 25% of your blade.

Tips:
- I would take good measurements from your slate, and machine the MDF without using the slate as the template. Consider making a plywood (or any scrapwood) template for the corner and side pockets.
- Use a 3/4" diameter, 1" long top bearing router bit to follow the pocket templates.
- Figure this as a 2-3 hour job

Opinion: Consider 33-34" for your playing surface height. It isn't regulation, but it sure is more comfortable.
 
I did that to a table 10 years ago but it wasn't really a liner. It was a cheap Imperial table with the slate sitting on 4 supports. All I did was glue some 3/4 x 2 poplar around the outside so I could staple to it. Drilled holes for the rail bolts and cut out the pockets after it was on. Didn't take long and didn't change the height. Work out OK...
 
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