Slotting Cutters Arbor question

KJ's Mandrels

I'll add my $.02 worth. I recently received one of KJ's mandrels and it's beautiful! I haven't had a chance to actually use it yet, but my carbide blades fit perfectly.

BTW, I just got around to leaving you feedback KJ. Sorry I took so long!

I purchased the arbor for ring cutting. I didn't realize that it would work for the shaft turning slot cutters as well. Thanks for posting the link for those cutters. For those who have used them, what kerf should I get?
 
KJ Cues said:
I wholeheartedly agree that a guard should be considered mandatory, at least on the operators side of the cutter. You are absolutely correct in that, should one of the brazed-on carbide tips of the slot cutter decide it's time to leave, that it doesn't wind-up in your chest. It can happen!!! When I used to do a little construction work I'd have a carbide tipped blade on my circular saw. Sometimes at the end of the day I'd notice that one or more of the carbide tips would be missing from the blade. At about that point, all you can do is ask 'where the hell did that go' and go have a beer and think about it.
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This is important enough that it needs to be stressed.
It is not like sticking your fingers into the blade.
You could be standing across your shop talking on the phone and get hit by it.
It HAS happened to at least one person.
He had to go to the hospital to have the tip removed from his belly.

We need to be aware of what can happen when we use tools that have this amount of potential energy ... things can and do go wrong.
Please ... put SOMETHING substantial between you and the spinning blade.
 
WilleeCue said:
Believe it on not, Dick, but I and some others are using them and they are a perfect fit for for the 6 tooth cutters that have been posted on this thread.
But thanks for your OPINION that is the opposite of the FACTS posted by those that KNOW.
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You don't need to thank me for my opinion Willee as, it wasn't an OPINION that I stated. I stated a FACT. The only problem was, my facts were wrong in this case. Sorry to have stepped on your such KNOWLEDGABLE toes.

Dick
 
Honestly, sometimes it's just too damn easy.

Just like I don't do level 2 Sudokus anymore, just a waste of ink.

FWIW, the correct spelling of "persis-ion" is p-r-e-c-i-s-i-o-n.
I don't know, maybe your spell-check is on the fritz again. Seems to happen quite often. And why are you shouting all the time (caps locked = shouting).
A little knowledge of punctuation wouldn't hurt you either.

To clarify, my mandrels aren't made 'at home'. I own a full-fledged weld & machine shop. But then you knew that.....hmmm.
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funny stuff.
 
rhncue said:
You don't need to thank me for my opinion Willee as, it wasn't an OPINION that I stated. I stated a FACT. The only problem was, my facts were wrong in this case. Sorry to have stepped on your such KNOWLEDGABLE toes.

Dick
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No Problem Dick.
Its hard enough trying to get the straight information about equipment with so much misinformation being put forth by people that think they know about things they have never seen or used. Strange that you think facts are facts even when they are wrong ... very strange indeed.
Glad I could help clear this one up.
 
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One good source of shafts is Lee at Brianna.
He has some "A" shafts that are what I would call second cut straight taper for $9 each. These shafts are dipped and graded and that is what makes them such a real value.
They might not be what the top cue makers are selling with their top quality custom cues but they are average retail run quality as good or better than most shafts you find on most production cues.
Out of 30 I got 25 good shafts and 5 really nice ones.
There were no rejects in the bunch and that is exactly what I expect with turned shaft wood from a honest, reputable seller.

Shafts for some reason are one item that can be sold as something they are not as the seller is somehow released from any responsibility.
I can, to a degree, see that if you are buying 1" dowels for $2 each but it is crazy for turned shafts costing upwards of $20 as you can plainly see the grade of the wood.
If I pay $20 for a "AAA" shaft dowel that is exactly what I should get and if it is otherwise it should be refunded or replaced.

I have been very satisfied with the shafts I have bought from Lee and unless you are a top cue maker looking for wood for your $2000 cues you should check him out. He might even have some of that top grade stuff available also.

I did find a bad piece from another reputable dealer who's name I will not say. Out of six shafts one just would not stay straight from cut to cut.
That is understandable and out of the control of the seller so I do not hold him in any way responsible. All six dowels were nice clear maple but that one piece just refused to become a straight cue shaft.
 
One more time.....

I asked this question in my last post, but never got an answer. So I'll ask again.

When I checked the link for slotting cutters shown earlier in this thread, they range from 1/16" to 1/4" kerf.

What kerf do you guys use for the 6 wing slotting cutters for cutting shafts?
 
Bill the Cat said:
I asked this question in my last post, but never got an answer. So I'll ask again.

When I checked the link for slotting cutters shown earlier in this thread, they range from 1/16" to 1/4" kerf.

What kerf do you guys use for the 6 wing slotting cutters for cutting shafts?
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Bill, I use the .080" ones but I dont think that is critical.
The tips on the thicker ones do weigh more.
 
That's one vote for .080"

Thanks Willee! Hope to get more responses on this question just out of curiosity.
 
Here is a picture of mine. It's carbide and has a 4" diameter. This particular cutter had a keyway, but my arbor does not. It cuts very well.

I'm not a cuemaker (yet). I'm a machinist. I'm just showing pics for reference.
 

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Wow that is one mean looking cutter.
With that many teeth I guess you dont need to spin it very fast to get a good clean cut. Are they expensive?
 
I'm not sure about the price. It was company supplied. I'll see if I can find a price when I get off work tonight. I doubt it would be very expensive. It also has chip clearance on each side.

I've cut Aluminum, Nylon, and other materials with it. I usually let it humm along pretty good.
 
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