Snakewood

K

keepanionme

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Does anyone have tips on working with Snakewood? I got a piece of it in hopes of making a pen as a retirement gift. I've read a lot of the horror stories, but not too many tips.

Drill blanks long so you avoid blowouts and drill a little then rest for 20-30 min. Other than that, I've not seen so much.

A pen blank is 3/4" round x 5". Anyone offer any tips on how to make this successful?

Thanks in advance.
 
You might consider cutting them up into 5/8 squares or whatever size square blanks you use and have them stabilized with clear material.
There are several cuemakers on here that have small stabilizing tanks that might do it for you at a reasonable cost if you asked.
 
cueman said:
You might consider cutting them up into 5/8 squares or whatever size square blanks you use and have them stabilized with clear material.
There are several cuemakers on here that have small stabilizing tanks that might do it for you at a reasonable cost if you asked.
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You will never get good stabilizer penetration into snakewood without using pressure, and 3,000+ psi won't even be close to "too much". Vacuum alone will simply not work on snakewood.

I'd leave this to the professionals - Meaning WSSI or K & G.

TW

 
Thomas Wayne said:



You will never get good stabilizer penetration into snakewood without using pressure, and 3,000+ psi won't even be close to "too much". Vacuum alone will simply not work on snakewood.

I'd leave this to the professionals - Meaning WSSI or K & G.

TW
Click to expand...

I figured in the smaller 5/8 square the penetration would work on the common stabilization units our members have. I knew the 1.5" squares were really hard to stabilize.

Another easier thing to do that I used to do was soak snakewood in nelsonite overnight or longer for point stock and inlay slabs and already bored out butt sleeves. That is not as good as the other kind of stabilization, but did cut way down on pieces cracking later.

Maybe Eric or Bob or someone with the smaller stabilization tanks can tell us their experience with thinner pieces of snakewood.
 
Thomas Wayne said:



You will never get good stabilizer penetration into snakewood without using pressure, and 3,000+ psi won't even be close to "too much". Vacuum alone will simply not work on snakewood.

I'd leave this to the professionals - Meaning WSSI or K & G.

TW
Click to expand...

hahahahaha........ :thumbup:

qJPtabX.jpg
 
Chris unless we're talking veneer thin.....I tell everyone the same thing (knifemakers / cuemakers / pen guys) "quit trying to cut corners to save a buck or two". You think it went all the way thru but (and maybe it did on some soft buckeye or spalted stuff) with vac alone it wont get thru stuff like snakewood, mesquite, aussie burls, hardwoods, etc, etc. K/G does ivory, antler and stone.... imagine. So call me a "shill"..... I know the material was done right.
 
snakewood

An observation, I bought a log that was 25 years old, from a ligit wood dealer. I cut it over a 2 year peroid. 2 years after the cue was complete it cracked. I have cut other pieces in 6 months that did not crack. I now use the method of multiplicity. I buy a lot, I cut a lot, if it cracks I toss it and go on to the next piece
 
I made this over the course of a week. I took a lot of time to drill the holes as it seemed to heat up really quickly when drilling.

After drilling, I turned it round and let it sit for a few days. After it sat for 3 days, I then turned it to the final dimensions and let it sit 3 more days. The next step was sanding and finishing. The finish I used was CA. It has 10 coats with the ends also coated. That should take care of any moisture getting in, hopefully. I polished up to 12000 and assembled. It will make a great gift.

Thanks for your help.
 
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