Sneaky Petes? ALMOST Custom Cues

  • Thread starter Thread starter Bruce S. de Lis
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Bruce S. de Lis

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Been doing some Surfing today looking at some of the Web-Site of Custom Makers.

Appears the Old Time Sneaky Pete has undergone a sort of Metamorphosis of sorts with many looking unlike the House Cue of olden Days.

Many have fancy points, wraps, and embellishments that make them look nothing like a house Cue.

At what point do you all think a Sneaky pete is no longer SNEAKY.... ;)
 
There's no such thing as sneaky petes anymore as we have known them.
Now, if you have one of those Marlboro cues. Get them cored, recollared and have the shaft replaced. That'll be a good sneaky pete.
 
Bruce S. de Lis said:
.

Been doing some Surfing today looking at some of the Web-Site of Custom Makers.

Appears the Old Time Sneaky Pete has undergone a sort of Metamorphosis of sorts with many looking unlike the House Cue of olden Days.

Many have fancy points, wraps, and embellishments that make them look nothing like a house Cue.

At what point do you all think a Sneaky pete is no longer SNEAKY.... ;)
Click to expand...

As soon as you add a collar of any sought to the joint or shaft, it is no longer sneaky.
 
JoeyInCali said:
There's no such thing as sneaky petes anymore as we have known them.
Now, if you have one of those Marlboro cues. Get them cored, recollared and have the shaft replaced. That'll be a good sneaky pete.
Click to expand...


Well maybe someone should tell this CUE DEALER that.... :D
 
Bruce S. de Lis said:
Well maybe someone should tell this CUE DEALER that.... :D
Click to expand...

In todays cues, anytime a full splice blank is used, it is called a Sneaky Pete, It's okay to call it that, It's just words, Every cuemaker has their own version,
 
Michael Webb said:
In todays cues, anytime a full splice blank is used, it is called a Sneaky Pete, It's okay to call it that, It's just words, Every cuemaker has their own version,
Click to expand...

But a SP was a house cue look a like right ????
 
What's happens to the play of, say, a Valley Supreme house cue if it is cut and a joint put in it? Or is this impossible to do?

The reason I ask, is it is one of my favorite cues and I always thought I'd find a two piece one but never have.

Thanks,

Jeff Livingston
 
chefjeff said:
What's happens to the play of, say, a Valley Supreme house cue if it is cut and a joint put in it? Or is this impossible to do?

The reason I ask, is it is one of my favorite cues and I always thought I'd find a two piece one but never have.

Thanks,

Jeff Livingston
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Hi Jeff
It happens quite often, The joint is added weight so use your judgement in your choice.

Deadstroke,
A horse is still a horse.
 
Michael Webb said:
Hi Jeff
It happens quite often, The joint is added weight so use your judgement in your choice.

Deadstroke,
A horse is still a horse.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the quick reply, Michael.

Would a wood-to-wood uni-lock work? Any idea of the cost?

Jeff Livingston
 
chefjeff said:
Thanks for the quick reply, Michael.

Would a wood-to-wood uni-lock work? Any idea of the cost?

Jeff Livingston
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I'm not sure what the going price for installing a uni loc pin and insert is. I don't use this pin in my cues.
 
chefjeff said:
What's happens to the play of, say, a Valley Supreme house cue if it is cut and a joint put in it? Or is this impossible to do?

The reason I ask, is it is one of my favorite cues and I always thought I'd find a two piece one but never have.

Thanks,

Jeff Livingston
Click to expand...
You might ask Blud. I may be remembering wrong, but I think he used to use Valleys for his sneaky petes in around '90.
 
I think if you're going to add a joint to a Valley Supreme, Dufferin or another one-piece cue, you should use a 3/8-10 SS pin. This will give you a solid wood-wood connection and maintain a very similar hit/feel as the one piece. Besides the joint, I'd replace the ferrule and tip also. You could either replace the shaft completely or do some taper adjustments.
I might be interested in converting them if someone is interested, for a small fee of course.

Zim
 
Zims Rack said:
I think if you're going to add a joint to a Valley Supreme, Dufferin or another one-piece cue, you should use a 3/8-10 SS pin. This will give you a solid wood-wood connection and maintain a very similar hit/feel as the one piece. Besides the joint, I'd replace the ferrule and tip also. You could either replace the shaft completely or do some taper adjustments.
I might be interested in converting them if someone is interested, for a small fee of course.

Zim
Click to expand...

The reason I'd want a uni-loc is for speed and ease of assembly. I've had one for over a year now on my SP Predator with a wood-to-wood joint and really like it. Wouldn't the quality of the joint be the same as a threaded pin?

The Valley Supreme has a nice taper (at least some of 'em do) so I'd leave that alone. And if I changed the ferrule (why?, btw) I'd be changing the cue so I don't know about that.

You're going to Peoria, correct? Let's talk about it there, OK?

Thanks all for the info.,

Jeff Livingston
 
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