Sneaky Question

R

raemondo

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Hi guys,

I have a question about sneakies ----- How is a sneaky / bar cue different from a wrapless basic 4-pointer? Assuming that both have wood-to-wood joints, have no veneers or inlays and have the same wood combinations, I think they're the same, right?

Seems like the main difference could be the wood used in the construction.....is the maple used for sneakies usually just regular maple?

I've just been wondering about this for a while now...like for example JMW makes a basic cue for say, 1500, but his sneakies go for say, 600 ---- this really confounds me!

thanks!
 
Sneakies are cut cutdown house cues or full-splice blanks.
A basic wrapless 4-pointer will have a short-splice forearm then a threaded on handle. The points on the short splice are usually longer and more even than sneakies.
Imo 4-pointers with no veneers are kinda ugly. Go for at least 6 points if you don't want veneers.
 
i admit sneakies are ugly, but the ones by custom cuemakers seem to hold their value well. And its a cheap way to experiment with different hit.

Bgrds
Raist
 
One mans trash(ugly sneakies) is another mans treasure(more expensive cues) I think they are a good way to get a cue from a maker that would normally be out of range for you ...... I have and had some customs but i also have a few sneakies( R. Harris, J.White)which by the way those two sneakies play fantastic...............:D I also forgot my old purpleheart Scruggs sneaky!!!!!!!
 
I think the hit will be more better than a half-spliced cue. Just wondering, do you think a predator sneaky-spjw with a shaft from cue-comp0nent (straight tight grain) would have a same feel as any high-end full-spliced cue out there?

Are all titlist cues conversion (at present date) done with a one piece blank or do they also use two piece cue (Willie with brass joint)?

Have you come across any present cue maker that has made radical design to a titlist cue?
 
icem3n said:
I think the hit will be more better than a half-spliced cue. Just wondering, do you think a predator sneaky-spjw with a shaft from cue-comp0nent (straight tight grain) would have a same feel as any high-end full-spliced cue out there?

Are all titlist cues conversion (at present date) done with a one piece blank or do they also use two piece cue (Willie with brass joint)?

Have you come across any present cue maker that has made radical design to a titlist cue?
Click to expand...

Dear icem3n, if you have a titlist question, I'd appreciate if you could open a new thread.
 
JoeyInCali said:
Sneakies are cut cutdown house cues or full-splice blanks.
A basic wrapless 4-pointer will have a short-splice forearm then a threaded on handle. The points on the short splice are usually longer and more even than sneakies.
Imo 4-pointers with no veneers are kinda ugly. Go for at least 6 points if you don't want veneers.
Click to expand...

Joey,

How is it then that sneakies are so much cheaper than basic 4 points? What effect does using a full splice blank have on making a cue, in your opinion?

I agree, 4 points no veneers is ugly....however I think that curly maple holds its own though. That said, I've always preferred points to be framed in veneers or recut points.
 
raemondo said:
Joey,

How is it then that sneakies are so much cheaper than basic 4 points? What effect does using a full splice blank have on making a cue, in your opinion?

I agree, 4 points no veneers is ugly....however I think that curly maple holds its own though. That said, I've always preferred points to be framed in veneers or recut points.
Click to expand...

A basic 4 point Q has a joint, where the handle mates up with the forearm. This joint allows us to add weight by joining the 2 pieces of wood together, with a large bolt. This would be done, if the woods used are light. If the forearm is a heavy wood( like Ebony), it can be doweled at this joint to lighten the Q. The use of this joint,allows us to BALACE the Q , so that it isn't butt heavy.. You don't have many options with a sneaky pete, because the whole butt is one massive hunk of wood...JER
 
raemondo said:
Dear icem3n, if you have a titlist question, I'd appreciate if you could open a new thread.
Click to expand...

Sory raemondo, I do think both do have the same type of construction except just for the veneers... don't you think so?:confused:
 
I have a question about sneaky too, if sneaky is made of blanks by every cue maker, would they really hit much differ from each other? except the joint and the ferrule, tips.. any structure difference?
 
sasman said:
I have a question about sneaky too, if sneaky is made of blanks by every cue maker, would they really hit much differ from each other? except the joint and the ferrule, tips.. any structure difference?
Click to expand...
There are many attributes that can vary, such as;
joint diameter,
butt taper, or compound taper,
shaft taper,
shaft wood quality,
ferrule material, length, thickness, sleeved, or capped,
tip,
joint pin size, and length,
shaft insert, or wood threads,
joint collar material, and thickness, or non-existent,
sleeved joint or capped.
All of these things, make a difference in the hit, the balance, or both.

Tracy
 
RSB-Refugee said:
There are many attributes that can vary, such as;
joint diameter,
butt taper, or compound taper,
shaft taper,
shaft wood quality,
ferrule material, length, thickness, sleeved, or capped,
tip,
joint pin size, and length,
shaft insert, or wood threads,
joint collar material, and thickness, or non-existent,
sleeved joint or capped.
All of these things, make a difference in the hit, the balance, or both.

Tracy
Click to expand...

thanks for the education:)
 
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