So while I'm buying a table, what am I forgetting...

Linwood

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Buying a new table (Canada Billiards Stainless 9'), placing order probably monday. Haven't had a table for 12 years, and even then did not pay all that much attention to the details. Long drive to the nearest billiards store.

So for someone who basically knows that the table should have the cloth side up and not much more....

What should I be doing/checking/getting while we are there?

We have a choice of cloth, but found several threads and retailer recommended Simonis Tournament cloth, so I think that's good.

We are getting a storage bench from the manufacturer to go with, so we will have horizontal storage for cues and balls and such.

They are providing a "Premium" package that appears to give you basic Maple cues in assorted weights, a set of "Belgium Balls", triangle, bridge, chalk. Woopie. We may want better cues at some point but I think it makes more sense to wait until we gain a bit of experience to see what weights we like, etc.

Other choices seem to relate to colors - wood stain, cloth/leather, etc.

Their own staff will deliver and install.

Are we missing something we should ask for on/with the table? Anything special to be sure they agree to for the install?

Any other "must have" accessories easier to buy in a real billiard dealer rather than online or at a Sports Authority? It's about 3 hours to the dealer so likely won't go back casually to shop.
 
Lighting, lighting and lighting! It is easy to overlook but in my opinion critically important. You don't want to have to install any needed lights after your new table is already setup so make sure to check out your situation and install lights as needed in advance. Hope you enjoy your table.
 
Get some good chalk, usually the stuff that comes with the balls is crap!
 
Lighting, lighting and lighting! It is easy to overlook but in my opinion critically important. You don't want to have to install any needed lights after your new table is already setup so make sure to check out your situation and install lights as needed in advance. Hope you enjoy your table.

I second that. Go for two LED panels that are 2' X 4' butted against each other if you can. You can see my light in my signature panel. When I venture out to play somewhere else, the light is what I miss the most.
 
@mvp: Type recommendations? They offered just "to match color of cloth" without saying type.

@denwhit, @cronk and @beneaththesur: Lighting, yes. We have 12' ceilings above the table and it is in a great room, and at least as a first pass I am going to try installing gimbaled eyeballs in cans above it. That's not ideal, but there's a ceiling fan that is in the way of hanging a panel directly above it and my wife is not enamoured with removing the fan.

The fan is not even centered on the table, it is about 1/3 the way from one end and a bit more from one side, but the blades are completely within the table area (but with the high ceiling pretty high, probably 9' up at least).

I THINK I can get the cans (need to add 1, maybe 2) so that each has a relatively narrow beam to the table that does not go through the fan blades (the strobe effect otherwise would be worse than bad).

At the moment I have the "table" marked off in blue tape and some of the eyeballs to install to see how it works. We will have 6-8 weeks to play with that before the actual table.

But absolutely, especially if it involves installing new cans in the ceiling, I want all that ready before it comes.

That does bring up a good question: How well do downlights (aimable) work for this I'm thinking that at worst I add one off each edge of the table coming in at an angle. My main worry is I can't have at least two illuminating the whole table (and thus killing shadows) as I do not want them to shine through the fan blades. So I'm thinking some parts of the table will have 3 or at worst 2 lights shining from different angles to reduce shadows.

A panel of a bazillion LED's would be better, I know, but not sure I am going to get that and stay married.
 
@beneaththesur those panels look nice, I just think some 45 degree cables to suspend it (and even just having it hanging in space in the great room) is not going to fly. I've actually got some 4' narrow panels (from aquariums) I may stick up there just for reference to see how the shadows compare and how quickly my wife yells, but I think I may be stuck with making the downlights work.

Even if I remove the fan, I think I need to use downlighting from cans, I didn't get a good reception to showing my wife some fixtures last time we were in the billiard dealer.
 
indeed, be greatful your allowed to have an INSIDE table
not all of us are as fortunate and forced into the garage

the hot, humid garage, that has a west faceing door, absorbing the suns rays for half a day along with a 10ft heated table
 
indeed, be greatful your allowed to have an INSIDE table not all of us are as fortunate and forced into the garage

If she forced me into the garage, her nice red sports car would be forced out into the Florida sun.

She has her priorities also. :wink:

Though there was a lot of discussion about an all-weather table, we just could not find space on the Lanai.

No one should have to go outside in SW Florida in the summer. I think that constitutes spouse abuse. :eek:
 
If you don't need that starter package with the balls, racks, etc.., pass on it, the quality of the items will be probably several levels bellow great, and bellow good. By need I mean that they are not forcing you into it and adding it to the price, if you can get it removed and save $200 it's better to do that.

A top ball set is in the $250 range, a good set is maybe half of that. For a budget but still very good quality control and tightness of spec, Aramith Premium is good and are about $150.

Racks, a low quality one will leave gaps between balls, I got some cheaper but good ones for a pool hall after testing several models, this Yokon one https://www.seyberts.com/ball-racks/yukon-8-ball-rack/ If you feel like splurging, the Delta 13 metal racks are very good. I tried maybe half dozen racks, this one met the best price/quality ratio.

The sticks, any good house cue from Action, Players, Dufferin would be good. You should not need more than 3, 18,19,20 oz weights are a good range, maybe get two of the 19 oz ones, that is about the mid standard.

Do NOT get any cloth color aside from blue, green or maybe tan. Tournament green looks great with a modern table look, more green colors for a classic wood look.
 
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If you don't need that starter package with the balls, racks, etc.., pass on it, the quality of the items will be probably several levels bellow great, and bellow good. By need I mean that they are not forcing you into it and adding it to the price, if you can get it removed and save $200 it's better to do that.
One is charging $250 additional and I am sure would leave it off, one is throwing it into the table price (they say it is $399 list), so getting credit for that would be harder, maybe about the same $250. still waiting for a final quote from one to decide which retailer. Both seem happy to be flexible on this stuff, in fact one when we looked at pool cues recommended not to look at expensive ones at first, which I found pleasingly honest.

A top ball set is in the $250 range, a good set is maybe half of that. For a budget but still very good quality control and tightness of spec, Aramith Premium is good and are about $150.
I have a vague memory of them saying that was the brand, though it is not on the quote, it just says "Belgium". I see they have a (pretty pricy) Aramith Belgium, but that's good to know, maybe these are "Chinese Belgium" :confused:

Racks, a low quality one will leave gaps between balls, I got some cheaper but good ones for a pool hall after testing several models, this Yokon one https://www.seyberts.com/ball-racks/yukon-8-ball-rack/ If you feel like splurging, the Delta 13 metal racks are very good. I tried maybe half dozen racks, this one met the best price/quality ratio.
Wow, I never knew any didn't leave gaps, I've always had to use both hands to push up from the bottom; must have always had poor ones. Good to know, and thanks for the recommendation.

The sticks, any good house cue from Action, Players, Dufferin would be good. You should not need more than 3, 18,19,20 oz weights are a good range, maybe get two of the 19 oz ones, that is about the mid standard.
I do want 4 since that's about the most people to play at one time, and it is nice to have a cue for everyone. Not needed, but nice. Though I was wondering if there was a point to then getting four completely different weights, maybe swap the 17 for another 19. Thanks.

Do NOT get any cloth color aside from blue, green or maybe tan. Tournament green looks great with a modern table look, more green colors for a classic wood look.
So this is the one that has me confused -- why not?

The room we are in could really use some color, and we were thinking of burgundy. The table is a warm, dark wood on the top rail, and stainless legs and bottom edge of the table (i.e. fairly modern looking not traditional or rustic).

Are you speaking of tradition?: Resale value (I assume it will be near zero, except with the house, as it's a dining conversion that I understand most serious players avoid, and at 9' most people looking for a home table would find too large).

Or is there something more fundamental I'm missing?
 
One is charging $250 additional and I am sure would leave it off, one is throwing it into the table price (they say it is $399 list), so getting credit for that would be harder, maybe about the same $250. still waiting for a final quote from one to decide which retailer. Both seem happy to be flexible on this stuff, in fact one when we looked at pool cues recommended not to look at expensive ones at first, which I found pleasingly honest.


I have a vague memory of them saying that was the brand, though it is not on the quote, it just says "Belgium". I see they have a (pretty pricy) Aramith Belgium, but that's good to know, maybe these are "Chinese Belgium" :confused:


Wow, I never knew any didn't leave gaps, I've always had to use both hands to push up from the bottom; must have always had poor ones. Good to know, and thanks for the recommendation.


I do want 4 since that's about the most people to play at one time, and it is nice to have a cue for everyone. Not needed, but nice. Though I was wondering if there was a point to then getting four completely different weights, maybe swap the 17 for another 19. Thanks.


So this is the one that has me confused -- why not?

The room we are in could really use some color, and we were thinking of burgundy. The table is a warm, dark wood on the top rail, and stainless legs and bottom edge of the table (i.e. fairly modern looking not traditional or rustic).

Are you speaking of tradition?: Resale value (I assume it will be near zero, except with the house, as it's a dining conversion that I understand most serious players avoid, and at 9' most people looking for a home table would find too large).

Or is there something more fundamental I'm missing?

Green/Blue cloth is best for seeing the balls properly and for eye strain. If you are getting the table as decoration/fun/furniture rather than playing close to seriously on, color does not matter in your case, red is very common for home tables and some pool rooms that cater to non-players. If no-one will be on the table for practice or playing seriously on, then really nothing much matters as to what you get. If you want to have the table and other things setup for actually playing past beginner level, then you need to select equipment better than a pre-made combo.

The racks and gaps, you need to push the balls together no matter what rack you use, and tightness of the rack depends on how good of a shape the balls are in and the table also. Older balls, cheaper balls, worn tables all will cause even a good rack to not work properly. On the other hand, a badly made rack will not work even with brand new top of the line balls.

If the combo you are getting has Belgium balls then they are likely to be Aramith, but Aramith range goes from about $100 to near $300. https://www.seyberts.com/pool-ball-sets with the "good" ones being the Premium and up. I have the Pro Cup set, and that is actually what is used in many pro tournaments if they don't use the Tournament set. Again, if you are not likely to tell the difference in your playing, the cheaper Aramith set is still good, just not as strong or with as tight variance in quality.
 
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Darker cloth colors look dirtier than lighter colors, dust, pet hair etc. but like mentioned above green is traditional and tournement blue is better to see the balls. Cloth is a wearable item and will be replaced every other year or so for a recreational player. So you won't be stuck with it if you choose a bad color or brand. Every thing is upgrade able,, don't sweat it! Pool tables are exactly like treadmills! There are those lifestyle people that use it for hours a day and those other people who only use it for the first month then it becomes a laundry basket!
As for the chalk question, get masters. It's cheap, excepted by all levels of players.
 
Thanks.

Treadmills - those are worse, at least for me my wife bought a couple different ones but for me -- despite being told I wouldn't use them. And strangely enough I didn't use them.

I've had a pool table most of my life and often go in and just hit balls for fun, nothing like a serious player, never played anywhere but at home, but I know it will get a lot of use. The last 12 years without left me missing it.

Masters: Got it.
 
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Green/Blue cloth is best for seeing the balls properly and for eye strain. If you are getting the table as decoration/fun/furniture rather than playing close to seriously on, color does not matter in your case, red is very common for home tables and some pool rooms that cater to non-players. If no-one will be on the table for practice or playing seriously on, then really nothing much matters as to what you get. If you want to have the table and other things setup for actually playing past beginner level, then you need to select equipment better than a pre-made combo.

The racks and gaps, you need to push the balls together no matter what rack you use, and tightness of the rack depends on how good of a shape the balls are in and the table also. Older balls, cheaper balls, worn tables all will cause even a good rack to not work properly. On the other hand, a badly made rack will not work even with brand new top of the line balls.

If the combo you are getting has Belgium balls then they are likely to be Aramith, but Aramith range goes from about $100 to near $300. https://www.seyberts.com/pool-ball-sets with the "good" ones being the Premium and up. I have the Pro Cup set, and that is actually what is used in many pro tournaments if they don't use the Tournament set. Again, if you are not likely to tell the difference in your playing, the cheaper Aramith set is still good, just not as strong or with as tight variance in quality.

I am pretty sure I read that tan is actually best for eye strain, but I would only get tournament green or tournament blue. Simonis.

I would not skimp on balls. They make a huge difference and last forever.

Whatever you do get quality chalk. Like Master.

Lighting has been covered but super important.


Get a pool table brush.

Vaccum every few weeks.

If it is going on to carpet, and you cant let the table sit for a couple weeks uncovered but assembled have them agree to come relevel after about 8 weeks

Never store anything ON the table. If you do at some point it will just be a platform for your crap.
 
I'm not familiar with that model table, maybe it's only in Canada? It's a home model table I take it?

Have you considered a used commercial model from a pool hall? You might be able to save half the money compared to a new furniture style table from a dealer.

Just an FYI, as it sounds like aesthetics are your priority.

Good luck.
 
You might want to consider a rack to store your cues vertically. Easy access, takes up less room and cues stored horizontally may tend to warp over a long period of time. Also, a cover of some kind will help keep things cleaner. Also a bridge head or bridge mounted on a shaft is a must for a 9' table. It may come in your accessory package though.
 
Vaccum every few weeks.

If it is going on to carpet, and you cant let the table sit for a couple weeks uncovered but assembled have them agree to come relevel after about 8 weeks

Vacuum: The last table we bought (circa 91) the dealer told us never, ever vacuum, always brush, that the joints are (filled?) with something that can be broken up by vacuuming. Was that not true?

It's going on tile on a slab, so (literally) rock solid.
 
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