Solid Maple Shaft and Radial Consistency?

JMW

Seen Your Member
Silver Member
The Predator 314 is spliced for radial consistency. They say the shaft hits the same regardless of orientation. The Meucci Red Dot shafts are solid maple and have a dot so you can always hit with the shaft in the same position for consistency.

I have seen great players who play with solid maple shafts who appear to not worry about this radial consistency issue. Is it really that important? I can agree that there could be sweet spots on a shaft, but does it really effect play? If you were used to a red dot shaft and someone handed it to you and your eyes were closed, could you shoot with it and tell if the red dot was in your normal position?

I am thinking about switching from a 314 to a Schon solid maple shaft because it feels better to me. I don’t care about the deflection thing. I can learn to compensate. But I am concerned about the radial consistency issue. Any thoughts?

As always, thank you all for your time.

JW
 
I'd say don't think about the radial consistency stuff at all. Don't look to make another excuse for yourself. Its a very moot point. Better to focus on your stroke mechanics, alignment, and feels.

Martin



JMW said:
The Predator 314 is spliced for radial consistency. They say the shaft hits the same regardless of orientation. The Meucci Red Dot shafts are solid maple and have a dot so you can always hit with the shaft in the same position for consistency.

I have seen great players who play with solid maple shafts who appear to not worry about this radial consistency issue. Is it really that important? I can agree that there could be sweet spots on a shaft, but does it really effect play? If you were used to a red dot shaft and someone handed it to you and your eyes were closed, could you shoot with it and tell if the red dot was in your normal position?

I am thinking about switching from a 314 to a Schon solid maple shaft because it feels better to me. I don’t care about the deflection thing. I can learn to compensate. But I am concerned about the radial consistency issue. Any thoughts?

As always, thank you all for your time.

JW
 
jazznpool said:
I'd say don't think about the radial consistency stuff at all. Don't look to make another excuse for yourself. Its a very moot point. Better to focus on your stroke mechanics, alignment, and feels.

Martin


I hear what u r saying but .What my work for some my not work for others..
Stick to what works for you ...314 or maple .it all go back to the tip ferrull..
 
JMW said:
I am thinking about switching from a 314 to a Schon solid maple shaft because it feels better to me.
JW

Say this to yourself before ploping down bucks for a Predator...




I will try before I buy, I will try before I buy, I will try before I buy, I will try before I buy, NUFF SAID... ;)
 
JMW said:
I am thinking about switching from a 314 to a Schon solid maple shaft because it feels better to me. I don’t care about the deflection thing. I can learn to compensate. But I am concerned about the radial consistency issue. Any thoughts?

As always, thank you all for your time.

JW

JW,
I think it depends on your level of play, and on your aspirations. If you are already playing at the highest level to which you aspire; then play with whatever feels good. If you are aspiring to a higher level then consider all issues (no matter how small) that may help your advancement.

I am not aware of any data on radial consistency with maple shafts - I do not know if there is a real, practical, significant difference to the player. I suspect that there is at least a very slight difference in deflection; and it is conceivable that (depending on the shot) it could occasionally be a factor. Plenty of top pro's have learned to play well with them. I like the peace of mind of not having to worry about it.

Another more important issue is high deflection vs. low deflection cues. It seems self evident that if you can use a low deflection cue properly then it is to your advantage. See Jack Koehlers book on the physics of pocket billiards to see how the lower deflection cues increase your allowable error in pocketing balls. Again, it is a small advantage; only seen on some shots but heck, I'll take any advantage I can. Remember though, plenty of great players have achieved great things without the "advantage" of a low deflection shaft (but I've always wondered if they could have been even better).
 
JMW said:
I am thinking about switching from a 314 to a Schon solid maple shaft because it feels better to me. I don’t care about the deflection thing. I can learn to compensate. But I am concerned about the radial consistency issue. Any thoughts?

JW


Your timing couldn't be more perfect! Go to the thread about the Schon cue and one inlay in the point and BUY THE CUE! Whether there's any validity to the theory or not, you'll have a Schon with PERFECT orientation every time after you figure it out. You might even get a new Schon shaft.

But that inlayed point can be either straight up...straight down...or off to either side.
There will be NO CONFUSION like a regular inlayed cue with all points the same!
 
drivermaker said:
Go to the thread about the Schon cue and one inlay in the point and BUY THE CUE!

D'maker,
Great advice, but I think you neglected to tell him that the cue was probably stolen property. :) :)

P.S. - doesn't anyone besides me find it ironic that in that whole thread there are several mentions of "highly respected cue dealers" (a little close to an oxymoron for my taste), "he's no fly by night cue dealer" (is there any other kind?), "he's a nice, honest guy" (what does being nice have to do with selling potentially stolen merchandise - yes, I know the thread was about a defective, falsely advertised cue, but I'm on a roll). I always find it self-serving when these cue dealers/collectors start complimenting one another about their integrity and honesty (I would believe it more readily coming from a used car dealer, since his merchandise is less likely to be stolen). Just because a lot of nice people engage in this hobby/profession does not make it any more reputable.

The most telling comment (?from Tate?) was when he described tracing the lineage of a cue as EXTREMELY difficult. Very true; and I'm afraid many cue dealers/collectors don't make enough effort in this regard. JMO.

At least these guys aren't as bad as the art dealers (who deal in works much more expensive than cues). A friend was in Chicago, looking for a Boulanger, was referred to a large art dealer and told, "well, you have to prove you are not a cop, then ask to see the works in the special back room." Those guys are REALLY sleazy.
 
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drivermaker said:
you'll have a Schon with PERFECT orientation every time after you figure it out. !

D'maker,
He could always hack a notch in the shaft or butt to let him know which end is up. I heard a story about Sailor, where a friend of his noticed that the butt of Sailors cue had a multitude of notches cut into the wood. It turned out that every time Sailor ran 100 balls he would cut a notch in his cue. He told the friend that he quit years ago once he starting running hundreds all the time, and ran out of room on his cue. I think I'll start doing that; lets see, right now I have.............oh yeah, NO NOTCHES.
 
The great players of yesteryear played with standard maple shafts and didn't make a big deal (that I've heard) about the shaft's sweet spot. I understand that technology has its benefits, but it doesn't seem to me that radial shafts have elevated the game.

If you can get a shaft made with lots of growth rings, you'll be in good shape.
 
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