some more pictures of my diamond customisation

Solartje

the Brunswick BUG bit me
Silver Member
no body posted any reply in the mainsection,

so i thought maybe here more people would be interested in seeing the pictures and folowing the project, and i hope it might work as a inspiration for alot of other tablefreaks.

So small recap.

bought a 9ft used diamond pro, didnt like the colour AT all, but i love the quality of the table. Also the table is 8y old, it was in very good state, and didnt really needed a conversion, but i wanted to work on the table myself to give it that special look, to make the table a one of a kind, and to change the looks of the table.

part 1 SANDING THE TABLE

http://forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=61407 here is a link to the first day, with some pictures of the sanding. Really this is a hard job and takes up 80% of the time. there are ALOT of pieces to sand, and the finishing is SO hard, and consists of 6 layers, wich makes it very hard, but worth it. Im not sure how many hours it takes to sand a diamond down to its VERY NICE bare oak wood, but id say around 30-50 hours.

a good tip, use a machine to sand of the top finishing coat, and once u see the original wood coming true, do the rest by hand. Ive used a 60grid for the first finishing layers, then a 80 grid, and then a 100 grid once you are on the wood and a 200 to finish off. also once everything is sanded, i used a wet cloth to raise the woodgrains, and then resand it with a 200 grid.

advice: Dont use cheap regular sandpaper on paper. Use rather sandpaper that are round to put onto a machine and thats glued on some sort of cloth. They are alot more expensive but they last 10 times longer. U need around 10 of these of the different thickness to sand a diamond. in the paperversion u probably will need 100 sandingpapers. so worth investing on GOOD sanding material.

side note: EVERY part of a diamond is full oak, some parts like the upperrails are differente parts glued together. The only piece of the table thats not full oak are the large sides underneath the table. The pieces are to thick to cut from a oak, and its just a small 1mm oak plate glued onto a MDF plate. (probably the weak spot of a diamond, but as its under the table, u hardly see it).

part 2 the pedestals.

Then the pedestals. (sp?)
i didnt like the shiny cheap clossy look of it. it make it look like cheap silver paint. As the pedestals took alot of beating and scratching, i atached them onto a lathé (worked greath) and then used a 100grid to sand the first parts of, and then finish the work with stealwoll. (i tried to use a wax over it , but i sanded it off as the result wasnt satisfying.)

here u can see the pictures of the pedestals. at least now they have a nice brushed stainless steal look instead of the cheap glossy silver painted plastic look.
 

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part 3: the wood colouring.

now on the looks i wanted to make the table black on the blinds, and use a mahongany or a maple look for the upperrails. now to make the parts black i didnt wanted to paint them. This wood give him a more plastic look as the grain wouldnt show true, so i spend some time on woodworking forums and i found the folowing solutions to get the oak black but still keep ALL of his amazing grain showing true.

some solutions:
A/ use indian inkt on the oak.
B/ use a black leather shoe dye
C/ make a homemade brew of vinegar+stealwoll+old rusted nails, let it sitt for a week or more and put it on the oak. The rusted solution will work with the tanin in the wood and make it black. oak having ALOT of tanin is ideal for this technique. They used it in the other centuries to fake ebony wood.

ive tried the first 2 as i had them at home, and the leather shoe dye worked AMAZINGLY well.

simple: get black leather shoe dye, (be sure that before aplying it, u raise the grain with a wet cloth and then sand it.) if u dont do this, aplying the dye will raise the grain, and if i sand it off to have a smooth finish it will come off.

i wanted a jetblack colour so i used 5 coats of it and then put on a extension on a drill to polish it (just like u do on shoes) this gives it a nice finished slitghtly glossy finish. the polish DONT COMES OFF!! really after it has dried for a dayn it just DONT comes off. so dont be afraid to stain your pants when touching it. I think ill need +- 500ml for a full table. aparently a person told me u couldnt use a varnish coath over it as the varnish would fix on the leather dye. But im checking with experts to see if there really isnt any way. As now the wood dont has this hard finish a pooltable need to resist all the dents and scratches.

in the next pictures u can see the original colour on the right (dark brown) , the sand oak colour in the middle (its NICE wood) and then the leather shoe dye on the left. the effect is A-MA-ZING, its like 1000000 times better then i could have dreamed. its equal over every surface, it looks profesional and u can still see the grain very well.

this picture might not be the best to show how u can see the grain as this part had SUCH a tight grain, u had graingroves every 2mm. but on the bigger blind parts, it is amazing, ill post pictures later once they are finished.

now the upperrails, im trying to experiment with differente techniques on how to get a dark black-red mahogany look, or maybe i just keep the original oak look. not yet sure about it.

till now the expenses are really perfect.im hoping to finish the table with new 9ft lightning , new cloth and best mechanic to install it for under 2500€


table + aramith balls+all accesoires (triangles, cues, wallracks, etc) : 1600€
sanding paper: 24€
shoe polish: 40€
lightning:
ac4455.png
9ft from italy 340€ (light + shipping + special deal)
all the material, working space etc where free as a friend let me borow some space in his woodworking atelier. perfect to work with.
new simonis cloth + best table mechanic i could find : 350€

so still 150€ under budget. this will probably to pay for red mahongany dye and some kind of varnish.

isnt this the nicest black u have ever seen? :D

looking forward to next days. table should be finished by the end of this month.
 

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mechanic/player said:
Nice job on the tables. Dont finish them too quickly, you might miss working on them.

you are 200% right :) i already miss it now, as i only got time to work on the table on sunday afternoon.


Tom: I had seen the pictures already before. really nice job u did on the table. If i remember correctly, you also stained the wood. Could u tell me again how u prefented the holy/ivory to not be stained too? I will need this info for when working on the upperrails, as i want my diamonds to stay perfectly white.
 
I can tell you how many hours I have into this table.... Looking forward to not having to work on it and just PLAY!!!!

What I did was paint the ivory diamonds with shellac using a fine pointed brush and a magnifying glass straped on my head. Bought it at harbor freight. I but on 2 coats. When I stained it it wiped off fine, nice and white. After the poly it was nice and smoth and looked great... Good luck...
 
Tom334 said:
I can tell you how many hours I have into this table.... Looking forward to not having to work on it and just PLAY!!!!

What I did was paint the ivory diamonds with shellac using a fine pointed brush and a magnifying glass straped on my head. Bought it at harbor freight. I but on 2 coats. When I stained it it wiped off fine, nice and white. After the poly it was nice and smoth and looked great... Good luck...

just to be sure.

did u let it dry before u wiped it off? im not understanding how u can just wipe off the shellac if its dry.Did u sand it off or use some alcohol or thinner to take the shellac off?

about the waiting, i cant wait to break the first rack too. i was hoping to finish the project for the 1st of june, and it will probably take another mont for the dye'ing, the finishing, the table setup etc, but the guy who is borowing his workspace said that im really glowing when im working on the table, and its true. i am VERY happy, and i advice anyone to do it. it just makes the table something personal. it costed sweat and blood (maybe i should add the costs of bandages etc too :cool: )
 
What I did was to paint the lines and diamonds with shellac, let it dry and painted them again. Once they were dry I rub on the stain and then wiped the stain off. The shellac is still there protecting the inlay/ivory. The shellac protects the ivory and the inlay. So now you have the wood all stained with the shellac still there. I then applied the poly finish. This blends in and levels out the shellac so you dont see it. Lightly rub it out with fine steel wool and give it a few more coats. Once your happy with the thickness of the poly, rub it out with automotive rubbing compound. When you're finished you have a nice smooth surface and the shellac is still there, diamonds and inlay are nice and white, but you can't see the shellac... Works great.... I searched all over the internet looking for how to do this... Hope this helps... :D
 
defently helped :)

ive been searching all over the internet to on how to colour the wood.

in case someone wants to do the same project, here are some nice colour combo's that u can choose off. (the brown is the original dark oak colour the table came in, the light is the sanded and the black is the leather shoe colour dye.

i actually like the left combo alot... maybe even more then the black-light combo :( maybe i made the wrong choice. Well ill try with a black-red/black combo and see how it looks.
 

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another view of the combo. curious to see which one other people prefere of the 3
 

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Color Combo

I think it might look cool with the cherry color top rails like the Gabriels and the light natural color on the skirts. All the choices you showed looked really sharp though. I don't think you can go wrong. The light in this pic (sorry the pic sucks) I made and stained with a color called cabernet from Varathane. It was the closest I found to matching the color of the rails on my Gabriels.

I've refinished a couple old tables now and I have used Varathane polyeurothane and it looks nice but it doesn't get a real thick build up to offer a lot of protection on the top rails. I wonder what Diamond and Gabriels uses on the top rails to get that thick build up. I was thinking of trying to spray them with auto clear coat like I do cues and see what happens. It builds up easier and is a lot stronger.
Gabriels.jpg
 
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