South West cue forearm / nose bobbing

JE54

JE54

AzB Silver Member
Silver Member
Do most South West cues have a forearm / nose bobbing problem ?
When you roll the butt (no shaft attached) laying flat on a pool table. And you can see the butt as it's rolled lift up and down at the joint area about maybe 1 or 2 credit card thicknesses, is that a major problem ?
Then attach a shaft and put the butt at the bumper area on the rail and the tip of the shaft on the table and roll the entire cue and the cue moves up and down at the joint area.
Is this a major problem ?
Does it significantly lower the value of the cue ?
 
I hate to be the bearer of bad news but from my estimation you have a warped Southwest in the butt section which is different than just having a warped shaft because you can't just have Southwest make you a new shaft you. You will have to get on their 10 + year waiting list to get a new cue or buy one on the secondary market.
It does lower the value significantly.

Are you rolling the cue on a perfectly flat surface like a pool table?
 
JE54 said:
Do most South West cues have a forearm / nose bobbing problem ?
When you roll the butt (no shaft attached) laying flat on a pool table. And you can see the butt as it's rolled lift up and down at the joint area about maybe 1 or 2 credit card thicknesses, is that a major problem ?
Then attach a shaft and put the butt at the bumper area on the rail and the tip of the shaft on the table and roll the entire cue and the cue moves up and down at the joint area.
Is this a major problem ?
Does it significantly lower the value of the cue ?
Click to expand...


Call Laurie Franklin at Southwest, She's polite, professional and very honest. Ask her anything you wish about your cue.
 
Pete Ohman Custom Cues

Sent it to Pete and he can repair the "A" joint for you. It won't take years and he does an outstanding job. I just had the same thing done to one of my cues and now it is lazer straight! I think he charges 175.00 for that repair plus whatever a new wrap will cost along with a refinish job if needed.
 
I did contact Laurie, she was very helpful. I just got the cue delivered today at 11:20 and after talking with her, I took it to a local cue maker to have him put it on his lathe. It's out at the handle and forearm. I think he said the A joint but I don't remember if that's the exact wording he used. I contacted the seller and repackaged it. Waiting for instructions on how he wants it returned shipped. I got it here on az from a very reputable seller, so I don't anticipate any problems.
 
JE54 said:
I did contact Laurie, she was very helpful. I just got the cue delivered today at 11:20 and after talking with her, I took it to a local cue maker to have him put it on his lathe. It's out at the handle and forearm. I think he said the A joint but I don't remember if that's the exact wording he used. I contacted the seller and repackaged it. Waiting for instructions on how he wants it returned shipped. I got it here on az from a very reputable seller, so I don't anticipate any problems.
Click to expand...


Excellent, for future reference, Don't ever have anyone replace a handle on a South West except South West.
 
JE54 said:
Do most South West cues have a forearm / nose bobbing problem ?
When you roll the butt (no shaft attached) laying flat on a pool table. And you can see the butt as it's rolled lift up and down at the joint area about maybe 1 or 2 credit card thicknesses, is that a major problem ?
Then attach a shaft and put the butt at the bumper area on the rail and the tip of the shaft on the table and roll the entire cue and the cue moves up and down at the joint area.
Is this a major problem ?
Does it significantly lower the value of the cue ?
Click to expand...

It is just the taper. All sw cue has it. It is about 6" taper from the joint. Sighting from butt down it should be straight.
Looks like you return one good cue.
 
icem3n said:
It is just the taper. All sw cue has it. It is about 6" taper from the joint. Sighting from butt down it should be straight.
Looks like you return one good cue.
Click to expand...

You can tell this from the internet, even when the owner took the cue to a local cue maker, had it put it in a lathe, and determined it was running out at the A joint?

Kelly
 
Kelly_Guy said:
You can tell this from the internet, even when the owner took the cue to a local cue maker, had it put it in a lathe, and determined it was running out at the A joint?

Kelly
Click to expand...

Kelly, it is not that I'm doubting the cuemaker or his lathe.

I previously own four SW and two of them are Franklin. All have the same taper problem when rolled on the table. Ask any SW owner and they will tell you the same.
 
Kelly_Guy said:
You can tell this from the internet, even when the owner took the cue to a local cue maker, had it put it in a lathe, and determined it was running out at the A joint?

Kelly
Click to expand...

Like you said, I might be wrong. It might be the A-joint.

JE, do check for the first 22" from the butt sleeve and let us know if it is straight.
 
How would you like me check 22 inches?
I was standing right there when he had the cue in the lathe and he showed me and explained where it was out.


Let me tell you this, I really don't want to return anything. This cue is beautiful except for this problem.
 
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forums.azbilliards.com/showthread.php?t=239835

Looks like a few others have the same opinions.

To test it just rolled it on the table without the shaft on. I know from the other thread, one says not to.

Just check the first for the first 22~23" from the butt cap, that is until about a few inch above the wrap(A-joint) . If it is only the first 6" from the joint wobbling, I won't worry too much. If the first 23" wobble then there is a problem in the A-joint or handle.

If it didn't wobble except first six but wobble badly with the shaft on, it might be the pin. Also sw shafts have the tendency to warp.

But if you are still in doubt just send it back. As the seller won't have problem selling this cue. Also you won't want this problem to mentally distract you while playing.
 
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JE54 said:
How would you like me check 22 inches?
I was standing right there when he had the cue in the lathe and he showed me and explained where it was out.


Let me tell you this, I really don't want to return anything. This cue is beautiful except for this problem.
Click to expand...

May I ask how he had it on the lathe ?
How was it chucked up and spun .
Did you use a collet on the joint or he used a dead center to the pin ?
 
I'm not a cuemaker so I'm not sure. He put the butt end on a little piece and the pin on a piece and spun it slow. You could see it moving back and forth around by the handle closer to the forearm. That's the best explanation I can give you.
Looking at your post again I would say it was the center way.
 
Is this a major problem ?
Does it significantly lower the value of the cue ?
Click to expand...

Define major.

answer to second question = probably, but I don't know about significantly.

If the cue was sold to you as a straight cue and it has movement in it, it has probably moved and may not be straight!
It doesn't matter what type of taper it has.
 
JE54 said:
Do most South West cues have a forearm / nose bobbing problem ?
When you roll the butt (no shaft attached) laying flat on a pool table. And you can see the butt as it's rolled lift up and down at the joint area about maybe 1 or 2 credit card thicknesses, is that a major problem ?
Then attach a shaft and put the butt at the bumper area on the rail and the tip of the shaft on the table and roll the entire cue and the cue moves up and down at the joint area.
Is this a major problem ?
Does it significantly lower the value of the cue ?
Click to expand...


never and I have SW's from 1986 until May of this year. Longest gap is 6 or 7 years. but Mine have lived in Vegas where its dry and they should never move, if they are moved to a humid area then there could be some movement, If it was sent back to Vegas and hung for a year or 2 it will straighten out(most likely-not always).
 
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